Barney9304
Active Member
Would someone please explain what a clay bar does and how do you use it?
Claying
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Justintyme
Active Member
Just google " Claybar and how to use it " Lots of info on the net about it.
Regards, Jim2
Clayed mine the other week!
Basically it wipes all the "stuff" off the top of the paint as well as an amount of lacquer, so where you have embedded bits of tar it will remove it, but will also remove all the smaller things that you can't see that make the paint look a bit faded and rubbish.
You have to try it. The feeling of increasing smoothness is great as you glide the clay over, it starts rough and sticky (this is where you will drop the clay!) but then just glides over the panel. You really know you're making a difference. You do have to wax afterwards though otherwise your paint is largely unprotected.
I use Sonax shampoo (2 bucket, wool mitt, microfibre towel etc.). Then clay with simple water spray bottle with a tiny bit of shampoo in (5% or so). Then use Harly wax on the top. You can also polish after claying if you really want to remove all the swirl marks etc.
Basically it wipes all the "stuff" off the top of the paint as well as an amount of lacquer, so where you have embedded bits of tar it will remove it, but will also remove all the smaller things that you can't see that make the paint look a bit faded and rubbish.
You have to try it. The feeling of increasing smoothness is great as you glide the clay over, it starts rough and sticky (this is where you will drop the clay!) but then just glides over the panel. You really know you're making a difference. You do have to wax afterwards though otherwise your paint is largely unprotected.
I use Sonax shampoo (2 bucket, wool mitt, microfibre towel etc.). Then clay with simple water spray bottle with a tiny bit of shampoo in (5% or so). Then use Harly wax on the top. You can also polish after claying if you really want to remove all the swirl marks etc.
As above, it removes all surface contamination, leaving a smooth base to apply Wax, glaze Etc. You rub the clay all over the surface of the paint by using a water and shampoo mix as a lubricant or a detailer spray, which enables the clay to move smoothly over the paint surface removing anything stuck to the paint surface.
Ant-toe-knee
Active Member
YouTube will have 100’s of examples
A couple of quick points if I may? Clay is not abrasive so will not damage or remove paint or lacquer.
It works by attracting contaminants such as brake dust and tyre particles which are stuck into the paint surface and won't come out with normal washing. They will stick to the clay though, which releases them from the paint. The simplest way to tell if a car needs claying is to gently rub the back of your hand over the surface, some people use a polythene bag for this. It should glide smoothly with no drag. If it does drag or feel rough then a clay bar, or even a clay mitt, will remove the crud which is the cause.
All I would stress, which has been mentioned above, is to make sure you use plenty of lubricant to keep the bar moving smoothly. I use Bilt Hamber clay and plain water is recommended with this, though I still tend to use a bit of shampoo in the mix just to be sure. Keep turning the clay in on itself as you do not want to be dragging the contaminated area back over the paintwork and, should you accidentally drop it on the floor, then don't risk it, just bin it and start with a new piece.
After claying and another quick wipe down/wash off, just use your own wax or sealant of choice, then stand back and admire your handiwork.
It works by attracting contaminants such as brake dust and tyre particles which are stuck into the paint surface and won't come out with normal washing. They will stick to the clay though, which releases them from the paint. The simplest way to tell if a car needs claying is to gently rub the back of your hand over the surface, some people use a polythene bag for this. It should glide smoothly with no drag. If it does drag or feel rough then a clay bar, or even a clay mitt, will remove the crud which is the cause.
All I would stress, which has been mentioned above, is to make sure you use plenty of lubricant to keep the bar moving smoothly. I use Bilt Hamber clay and plain water is recommended with this, though I still tend to use a bit of shampoo in the mix just to be sure. Keep turning the clay in on itself as you do not want to be dragging the contaminated area back over the paintwork and, should you accidentally drop it on the floor, then don't risk it, just bin it and start with a new piece.
After claying and another quick wipe down/wash off, just use your own wax or sealant of choice, then stand back and admire your handiwork.
Ant-toe-knee
Active Member
Excellent post
exvolvoman
Active Member
You may find a clay mitt easier to use...
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
" Clay bar, Clay bar , they make it in Holland out of oil , clay and pollen..." No..? Just me then.
GLC...fresh bra'
Ill get my coat.
GLC...fresh bra'
Ill get my coat.
I tried a Bilt Hammer regular bar recently and found it way too hard - even in hot sun it was a proper finger workout!! Might have to go back to my old Meguiars bars in future, or maybe try the softer BH ones.
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