Climbing Gear: Cow's Tail

[Spinal]

Again, a totally off-topic question!

I used to do quite a lot of Via Ferrata, and have recently started rock climbing.

That said, as I started going around vie ferrate when I was 8, I used to have a cow's tail made for me each summer (which included 2 screamers attached to each 'biner). I never really had to tie my own...

So now I'm trying to figure out what knots it was composed of... my guess is a figure-of-8 between each rope end and the screamer... or maybe a barrel know... and then "something" halfway through to attach it to the harness...

Any ideas? (and yes, I am planning on testing it before using it!) I'm willing to lose £10 worth of rope to test the knots...

M.

 

[mattc]

I dont now how but perhaps you could take the bits to a climbing shop and asking the guys there to show you. you could practice whilst they watch and make sure you do it properly?

 

[oldcro]

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/karst_2127_170338001

If this works it shows a good picture of the knots.

 

[Spinal]

I found a shockingly good pdf:
http://www.irata.org/pdf_word/lanyardtest.pdf

In a nutshell, they tried various options (rope types, knots, stitches, pre-made systems, etc) and recorded the forces at fall factors of 1 and 2.

Turns out a barrell knot on one end and a figure-of-8 knot on the other is the best option! I'm still adding a screamer as in a via ferrata a fall factor or 3+ is not unheard of... but I'm happy to have found that!