CLK 200 / 2006 / 5 Speed Auto

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kenam

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2019
Messages
52
Location
NI
Car
2005 CLK 320
Hi all,

I was here a couple of years ago looking to buy a larger spec CLK.

Some life stuff happened in 2019 and then of course COVID the year after so I never bought anything in the end.

However - a fairly well kept CLK200 just popped up for sale locally. I'm going to have a look at it as a car "for now" while I look for something better. I have never driven the smaller 1.8 - is it going to be disappointment all round, or something not too bad?

What potential issues am I looking at on the 1.8 petrol?

Thing I know:
- Mileage - around 85k, Timing chain replaced at ~75k
- Seems to have been well enough cared for (Wheels refurbished etc)
- Engine code 271940

Unfortunately tho it is smaller engine than I would ideally want AND its the older 5 speed auto (I'm not sure about those, I seem to recall issues?)

Any obvious things I should be looking out for? I think if it drives well enough I will take a punt as I am without any car at the moment!
 
I’ve had one for 10 years , lovely car .
It’s not a sports car but has a reasonable turn of speed , it’s more of a long distance cruiser . We’ve had it down to the south of Spain and the Italian Alps .
C0863023-18AB-4B38-951C-C924700718D0.jpeg48495E1E-DE5C-4344-A533-C44F63B045EA.jpegD6294D4D-0061-42C1-901D-01CC049E67C3.jpeg
Make sure there was a gearbox service at 37500 miles . It’s due another when you buy it , budget £200 at an Indy .
In picture 3 you can see wire blocker extensions on to the cam magnets . Disconnect the electrical connections and check for oil in them , if there is oil wicks along to the front main electrical plugs , maybe walk away at this point . If they are clean fit the blockers anyway when you buy it .
If it was me I would change the supercharger oil , rear diff oil , roof pump hydraulic oil .
Watch for rusty failing rear subframe , broken exhaust mounts .
The 5g is a tough easily serviceable box , don’t be put off .
Take an icarsoft code reader with you
 
We have had our CLK 200k from new in 2003. Engine has not given any issues in that time. I think we have replaced the fan, one suspension joint and the alarm module. Performance is best described as adequate but its very refined. No rust issues so far.
 
I’ve had one for 10 years , lovely car .
It’s not a sports car but has a reasonable turn of speed , it’s more of a long distance cruiser . We’ve had it down to the south of Spain and the Italian Alpske sure there was a gearbox service at 37500 miles . It’s due another when you buy it , budget £200 at an Indy .
In picture 3 you can see wire blocker extensions on to the cam magnets . Disconnect the electrical connections and check for oil in them , if there is oil wicks along to the front main electrical plugs , maybe walk away at this point . If they are clean fit the blockers anyway when you buy it .
If it was me I would change the supercharger oil , rear diff oil , roof pump hydraulic oil .
Watch for rusty failing rear subframe , broken exhaust mounts .
The 5g is a tough easily serviceable box , don’t be put off .
Take an icarsoft code reader with you
Oh wow thanks for that and nice looking car you got there too!. I'll ask about oil changes etc.. it's not a convertible tho so no roof pump, but hopefully everything else done!

About the electrical blocks, was that something Merc would have done at regular service or a precaution that most people would take?
 
Oh wow thanks for that and nice looking car you got there too!. I'll ask about oil changes etc.. it's not a convertible tho so no roof pump, but hopefully everything else done!

About the electrical blocks, was that something Merc would have done at regular service or a precaution that most people would take?
It’s a precaution that members take , I don’t believe MB do it for free . Changing the magnets is almost as cheap as fitting blockers though .
 
It’s a precaution that members take , I don’t believe MB do it for free . Changing the magnets is almost as cheap as fitting blockers though .

Alright cool - will need to look into this a bit more - If I am going to be asking to pull apart leads on some random guys car I better at least appear like I know what I am doing (Its a private sale and I don't want to be disrespectful)!
 
Alright cool - will need to look into this a bit more - If I am going to be asking to pull apart leads on some random guys car I better at least appear like I know what I am doing (Its a private sale and I don't want to be disrespectful)!
They are an easy pinch/pull off , if oil has wicked along them it’s an expensive fix
 
 
Take an icarsoft code reader with you

About this - I have one of these guys:


and torque app (which I havent used for a long time) - should that be enough - it seems the icarsofts are much more fully featured?
 
hmm ok - so a mixed bag.

Condition
Body work and refurbished allows make it look almost new. Interior not too bad, red leather seats look nice but maybe a bit of a treatment needed (but not bad at all, just 14 years old!). Ancillary controls etc all seem to be working.

Service History
Has been serviced at an indy since 2014ish (about 38k miles) and as far as I can tell only oil and "air cleaner" (I assume filters) are checked. No sign of auto box servicing. It seemed to drive ok up to 60 mph tho - no obvious changing issues in comfort or sport.
Timing chain kit replaced, new starter motor / battery and various "normal" stuff - track rod end/ parking sensor etc.

Drive

No major noises. Smoth over bumps. Accelerates fine. Take my hand off the wheel tho and it pulled a bit left.

On to the big issue:

Cam magnets. The offside cable has a blocker / loom fitted. I forgot to check inside for oil but this was fitted 2018:
IMG_20210609_192313.jpg

The nearside tho didn't have one. It was oily on the outside and looks like the pics:

IMG_20210609_192302.jpgIMG_20210609_192310.jpg


On top of that torque app picked up codes P202A, P203A and P2062.


I'm guessing this might be a deal breaker?
 
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Watch for rusty failing rear subframe , broken exhaust mounts .
Forgot to add - RE this point. I could only get a look under on the flat and took tis pic - to me is just looks like any other "old car with some rust"- I'm not really sure what I am looking for :D


IMG_20210609_193110_2.jpg
 
On top of that torque app picked up codes P202A, P203A and P2062.


I'm guessing this might be a deal breaker?
Although - P203A seems to be low fuel :D and the other two seem to relate to Diesels - or do I have that completely wrong?
 
:thumb:

Very important on the M271 engine.
Yeah..! Like I say hit and miss- that's a real ticking (pun intended!) Timebomb that had been dealt with but I'm concerned about this leaky cam magnet issue 🙈.. I'm not even sure how much that will be..!
 
Yeah..! Like I say hit and miss- that's a real ticking (pun intended!) Timebomb that had been dealt with but I'm concerned about this leaky cam magnet issue 🙈.. I'm not even sure how much that will be..!
The cam magnets leak after a certain time and need replacing , that’s not the problem, that’s a cheap job to change the magnets (diy £80 ish , garage maybe up to £200 ?) . The problem is that the oil may have wicked along the wiring into the cars electrics .
 
The cam magnets leak after a certain time and need replacing , that’s not the problem, that’s a cheap job to change the magnets (diy £80 ish , garage maybe up to £200 ?) . The problem is that the oil may have wicked along the wiring into the cars electrics .
Yeah, I got you (sorry, my apologies, I was a bit vague in my response!).
It definitely seemed a bit oily. But I'm wondering how much to repair the electrics if the oil has gotten all the way down... Probably not worth it on a 3k car at this stage?
 
The cam magnets leak after a certain time and need replacing , that’s not the problem, that’s a cheap job to change the magnets (diy £80 ish , garage maybe up to £200 ?) . The problem is that the oil may have wicked along the wiring into the cars electrics .

Yeah, I got you (sorry, my apologies, I was a bit vague in my response!).
It definitely seemed a bit oily. But I'm wondering how much to repair the electrics if the oil has gotten all the way down... Probably not worth it on a 3k car at this stage?


Ok, sorry about this.. I'm even spamming myself now..! it seems the first thing to go is the O2 sensor. That doesn't seem such a big thing on its own.

Cam magnet with a blocker doesn't seem such a difficult repair on its own, It looks like an easy enough DIY repair.. even for the uninitiated! I'm tempted to go for this car.. but I'm not entirely sure I'm missing something and about to wash j into disaster (and just being impatient!)
 
... I'm wondering how much to repair the electrics if the oil has gotten all the way down...

If the oil goes up the loom and into the ECU, the car will typically need a new (or reconditioned) ECU and new loom. Some firms can repair the ECU.
 
If the oil goes up the loom and into the ECU, the car will typically need a new (or reconditioned) ECU and new loom. Some firms can repair the ECU.
I called a main dealer.. 700 ECU and 350 for the loom (parts ex-vat) - yikes!!
 

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