CLK 230 Convertible - topping up the hydraulic fluid

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unit504

Active Member
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Jun 1, 2006
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876
Car
A **** heap
think this post maybe better in the how too not sure tho! :cool:

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following carried out on a 1998 clk230 convertible
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first you need to open the roof and stop it in the position so the bow of the car is open along with the window part of the roof:

DSC00110.jpg



then remove all the carpet clips holding in the carpet:


clip:
DSC00123.jpg



over view:
DSC00111.jpg



once removed all the clip you can then take out the top part of the carpet:

DSC00112.jpg


after that roll back and remove the roller boot closure (this is only held in with one bolt either side of it)

DSC00113.jpg


as you need to get to the bolts behind it:

bolts behind boot cover:
DSC00115.jpg



once removed it will look like this:

DSC00116.jpg



now you need to remove all the gold headed bolt from around the black metal panel
(NOTE: if you have a bosé audio system installed in your car you will have 4 extra gold headed bolt in this cover you do not need to remove: they are the ones located at the top in this image, and do not run along any of the metal cover edges)

DSC00117.jpg



once all bolts are removed slightly lift the metal cover and turn it toward the battery,
as show in the below picture:

now you can see all the parts needed eg: pump, roof controller etc...

DSC00118.jpg



my hydraulic level was low as you can see:

DSC00119.jpg


now remove the gold top bolt from the pump bottle:

DSC00121.jpg



top up with only MB hydraulic fluid! :

DSC00120.jpg


once topped up to the top bar on your pump motor indicator, replace the gold top bolt and do all the above steps in reverse.


hope this help regards Unit504
 
Ta for that. The SL pump has to have a special syringe to fill it up. Pain
 
i dunno if there is any easier way of doing this procedure? if there please let me know regards all
 
this is very true!! took me around 45mins this time from start to finish :)
 
I would also like to find out where it leaked from. The ram seals have been known to leak .

Bazzle
 
The seal on my clk 230 leaked as well. The seal is located behind the carpeting on the hood/bow of the roof storage compartment. I thought it would be easy to repair by my mechanic is still trying to figure out how to fix it!?!
 
I have a question. One the top is half open and you've filled the fluid, didnt the roof jam? My roof jammed half way and I had to force it into place.
 
no the roof didnt jam when going back down. you should not force your roof up or down - this will only lead to more problems as in the roof forgeting what position it was in last!!! then you will need to have it reset.

I have a question. One the top is half open and you've filled the fluid, didnt the roof jam? My roof jammed half way and I had to force it into place.
 
I would have thought that the roof would have had to have been in either fully open, or fully closed position to fill the fluid to the top mark.
IE; the position where there is no pressure in the system and the reservoir is at its' fullest.
 
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with the roof closed or open you can not get to all the bolts on the metal plate hiding the pump
 
Nice post Unit 504 :) , on the SL to do any work in the boot at all the roof has to go into the service possition, as you cant remove any trim without doing that. you need a special gantry to hold it up though I suspect that it could be tied up. I fancied fitting the latest rear lights but for all of the work is it worth it.
 
Nice post and pictures too!

Just thought that I would mention.. there is an access hole pre-cut in the steel angled panel... you can lift a small section of pre cut carpet over the hole and check the level with a torch from inside the boot.

Recently the pump relay failed on my 230k and I stripped out all the panels mentioned above to check the relay. It was only later that I figured it might be possible to replace the relay through the access hole. The problem was that the hole was too small for my hand to pass through, but my wife has much smaller hands. She was able to fit the new relay (bought a couple of days later) without me having to remove panels again.

This makes me think that she may well be able to use a small spanner to loosen the filler cap... then remove it by hand. Insert a small copper tube with an angled neck... say 90[FONT=&quot]° then add some fluid to the tank.
The only downside to all this is, if there is a leak you probably won't see it.
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This post has been invaluable after I had a split hose in the tonneau cover. Thanks! :thumb:

The most annoying thing was having to pay £128 to Mercedes for a replacement, when it's pretty much the same thing you find on a pushbike!

Handy hint 1: Don't leave the luggage cover off when you put the car back together while you're waiting for parts - it makes it hard to open the boot again because the switch isn't pressed down!

Handy hint 2: Put some WD40 on your boot lock, if like me you never unlock it manually!

Handy hint 3: You can lock down or release the back window using an allen key. The bolt is in the roof of the boot (under the latch).
 
is the motor bad or is it low on fluid?

How do I tell if the motor is going out or if its just low on fluid?
 
thank you unit504 this has to be the best ever post for CLK cab owners, followed your instructions and removed all the gubbings making sure all bagged and taped together for the day I put it back.

Sun shinning on my bald head and a jug of pimms it took no more than 1.5 hours stopping for refreshments in that time:D.

My mechanic popped over and confirmed that power and earth going into the pump but pump dead all relays working,topped up oil and gave the little ******* a knock with the a small hammer while others where pressing butting/switches but nothing.

I have no idea how much this would have cost me at a main dealer but £40 drink for the information. Have a contact in London who deals with pumps/motors and also owns a merc cab who will look at it, will keep anyone interested posted.

Hopefully with a working pump my roof problem will be solved my only concern is the bow switch.
 
Actually, given the fact there is a small access hole, through which you can see the level (but the hole is too small to get your hand through), I'd be tempted to make this hole larger using a saw... There is nothing too close behind and to the left of the hole so it could be easy to make that hole larger and top up the level without stripping the boot...

Also if I did go to the effort of taking the metal plate out then I would certainly make a nice access hole in it for future.
 

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