Clk 320 let me down. Died in traffic

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Ginettaman

Active Member
Joined
May 21, 2019
Messages
69
Location
East Yorkshire
Car
CLK 320 Cab
Clk320 cab let me down today in Sunday best. The Car drove ok then I went to move it in the car park and the starter cranked but it wouldn't start? Later it did start so I set off home and it died on me in a traffic queue so very embarrassing having to push it out of the way. Now the engine light has come on so I got it recovered home. At home it started right up again. Could this be the crank sensor? Seemed to fail when the engine warmed up. If so can I replace it myself? This May be un-connected but also on corners I get the check coolant warning but the level seems fine? Any ideas pointers pleas?
 
Sounds like the crank position sensor - that is where I would be looking. also, check your washer fluid. Seriously. Istr the two are connected in some way.
 
IRRC on some models to save money Mercedes put the coolant reservoir and headlight/windscreen washer coolant reservoir on the same electrical warning circuit meaning a low fluid level warning could be from either reservoir? Check all your fluid levels?
Engine fault does sound like the CPS as others have said already.
 
It does need a need headlight washer pump but will refill the washers. Has anyone posted the procedure for changing the cps on here?
 
IF YOU HAVE THE M112 engine lots of videos out there e'g.
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Ok great a job for the weekend then once I know which type of new sensors I need. Where will I find the OBD socket on a Clk? I have a OBD reader so worth a try but don't have Star. Nearest garages miles away from me.
 
OBD is to the right of the steering column on the underside of the dashboard usually under a plastic flap.

The CPS is quite difficult to get to as it sits just above the gearbox. Buy the MB part or Bosch equivalent, more expensive but they do last longer.
 
The CPS is one job I'd leave to an indy.
Even if you manage to locate it, getting the torx bolt out, then the CPS can be very difficult. Some are seized in and have to be drilled out.
Budget around £200 for an indy to supply and fit.
 
It’s not too complex, but there are two things to remember.
Only work on a cold engine and having smaller hands helps.
It’s an object you can either see OR feel, but not both at the same time.
Agree with buying an MB unit. It’s not the kind of job you want to repeat too often.


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I'll have a go myself yes. Done them on other cars. I'll give it a soak in penetrant as I can see the alloy bell housing could corrode it in place. Part about £30 so no need for a £200 bill hopefully. Some say it could be the cam sensor as similar symptoms but if I can read the codes it should let me know.
 
I'll have a go myself yes. Done them on other cars. I'll give it a soak in penetrant as I can see the alloy bell housing could corrode it in place. Part about £30 so no need for a £200 bill hopefully. Some say it could be the cam sensor as similar symptoms but if I can read the codes it should let me know.


A genuine MB part is around £100.
Ask yourself if it is worth buying a cheap pattern part, how long has the original lasted?
 
I changed the CPS on my M113 V8 in a C class...total pig of a job. but on a V6 in an E class ? 'Easy life' , plenty of room. Just buy a Bosch sensor which is what MB use anyway and get at it.
 
I changed the CPS on my M113 V8 in a C class...total pig of a job. but on a V6 in an E class ? 'Easy life' , plenty of room. Just buy a Bosch sensor which is what MB use anyway and get at it.
It is a CLK not an E Class
 
The CPS is one job I'd leave to an indy.
Even if you manage to locate it, getting the torx bolt out, then the CPS can be very difficult. Some are seized in and have to be drilled out.
Budget around £200 for an indy to supply and fit.

Have been trying to change mine, the bolt is not moving , the sensor body is stuck and now broken. Thinking I would have been better going to an indy, however many people change them in half an hour. Luck of the draw eh. I paid £120 for the MB part, Bosch was about £60 from ecp. And buy a new bolt too.
Preferred the genuine one with paperwork to show.


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^ And this is why I'd leave it to an indy. You just don't know what problems may occur.

I'll tell you another job I wouldn't tackle (on an M113K anyway) Spark plugs! If they are seized in you can snap them off and its an engine out job to get the old plug out.
I'd rather pay an indy and not worry about unforseen problems.
 
I had a similar experience on Saturday with my 320 and when the AA man plugged into it he found numerous fault codes, 2047, 2017, 2195, 2133,2134 and 2135. In his opinion it was either the primary fuel pump or the high pressure pump, had anyone come across these codes before?
 
Some of them may refer to a fuel rail pressure problem hence the AA man's suggestion that there may be a fuel supply problem. Others may refer to glow plugs You don't say the age of your car or whether its petrol or diesel. Problem with multiple faults is that they may be historic as well as current if the old ones were never cancelled after the fault was repaired. Is your car a diesel?
 
Some of them may refer to a fuel rail pressure problem hence the AA man's suggestion that there may be a fuel supply problem. Others may refer to glow plugs You don't say the age of your car or whether its petrol or diesel. Problem with multiple faults is that they may be historic as well as current if the old ones were never cancelled after the fault was repaired. Is your car a diesel?
Yes it's a 2006 Diesel OM642 engine.
 

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