cls w 219 auto boot opener/closer

[Gbrowncls55]

The auto boot opener and closer has stopped working on my car. Symptoms are;
The door switch unlocks the boot and lifts it about an inch but no higher. I can then lift it manually but slightly stiffly to open it. On closing both the door button and the boot button make the mechanical closing noise but do not lower the boot. I then have to push it down gently against some counter force to shut it. As it hits the catch it auto grips and closes as normal.
Any ideas anyone. I'm sure its the same mechanism as w211 or s class of similar age 2004-2008ish.

 

[whitenemesis]

Sounds like it needs normalising or resetting. I had similar on my W219.
With boot lid fully open close it by hand until it matches. Then using the door mounted button open the boot lid, keeping holding the button until the lid is fully open.

 

[Major774]

Does it open normally via the fob and external handle? Or do you get the same? A small 1 inch opening.

 

[Gbrowncls55]

its the same whichever I use i.e. fob , door switch or handle just opens about an inch and then has to be opened manually with difficulty against some sort of counter force. same on closing door switch or boot switch makes the usual sound but nothing happens. Then has to be pushed down very slowly against some sort of counter force until it reaches the latch when it will close itself. I have tried resetting it as per Whitenemesis above but to no avail.

 

[whitenemesis]

Get the car on STAR check for any errors and reset the function.
Make an appointment with the guys at Comand in Lightwater.

 

[Major774]

Might be just abusted wired, where it loses connection just a point (1 inch opening).

I am currently experiencing a random 1 inch opening with mine but I know it is wiring, I have re-soldered before. I just need to find the which half broken wire again.

The counter force you are feeling is the motor for bootlid.

 

[Gbrowncls55]

which hinge do the wires run through (facing he boot) or drivers side/passenger side?

 

[MRkCLS]

It's the left side. I had a problem with the boot too. You need to strip the trim on the left side and check for broken wires under the hinge.

 

[Gbrowncls55]

quick update. stripped the left hand side boot out (very easy) removed the hinge cover and the cable tie holding the loom to the hinge. Then removed all the insulation from that part of he loom to expose the wires. Took the plastic flexi-hose away for about 4 inches for better access.
Well, at least half of the wires had already been previously repaired and three more whilst not broken were bare where the insulation had split.
So I took all the repairs apart and redid them and in some cases where it had split in two or three places let is a new piece of wire. then I tested it and it seemed to work ok. so I gathered the wires up and wrapped them together with insulating tape taking particular care to add more by the (quite sharp) end of the flexi-hose . Fitted a new cable tie adding more tape to the loom where the tie made contact. Then refitted all the boot panels, vacuumed the boot out and all was well. Working as it should. I would have like to have known which wire was causing the problem as none of the seemed to be actually broken but perhaps one of the bare ones was shorting something out.
Only comment I can make is that MB should have taken more care in the design of how to run the loom against the hinge. Mine had obviously failed at least once for a previous owner before my repair.
Anyway just wanted to update the thread and say thanks to everyone for their help. MB wanted their usual £170 diagnostic fee before we start and I expect would then insist on fitting a new loom (ouch)

 

[Major774]

So yeah... wiring failure, common problem.

 

[Alps]

common issue on the w211 as well, sometimes they short and the controller has to be replaced.

At least you got it all working