CLS window regulator snapped cable repair DIY

[n13]

There are adjustments on the clamps which hold the window. Not a lot though.
Maybe raise the window to a point where you can access these and loosen them both to see if the window drops?
It is vital that the height and level is righthe or you'll have a leaky window.

 

[KillerHERTZ]

Just spent a good couple of hours working on my drivers door. managed to get everything out of the car ok however when trying to connect the replacement kit ordered off eBay the white cog has the cable connector holes the opposite way around so I tried using the original.

2 of us tried in vain for nearly 2 hours to get the cabling to fit on the cog, each time it comes off and fails to work. we have tried everything

Added to which, when I have tried putting the car back together (door card etc) the car does not recognise the door as being closed/central locking doesnt work on that door. The door handle works fine from inside and out, but the door pin doesnt fall, nor can you hear the central locking working on that door.

The window motor is not wired up, would this effect the cars ability to lock it?

I have a 100+ mile trip tomorrow and I dont fancy the dash being red/constant beeping saying that the door is open...

Any ideas?

 

[whitenemesis]

You've put the door edge trim, around the lock, back in place?

 

[zipdip]

Wow enjoyed this thread,we could do with more of these,to be fair it was like turning the clock back 40 years where car manufacturers just put out anything in there cars leaving the owners to sort it out sometimes with a Haynes manual,I just cannot believe Mercedes have allowed this defective window winder to be used in their cars,as the weeks go on towards me buying another car I have to say I am thinking of jumping ship.

 

[KillerHERTZ]

You've put the door edge trim, around the lock, back in place?

No... Ah of course, will give it a go!

 

[KillerHERTZ]

Cheers, it worked, so obvious now!

The door pin isnt dropping when the car is locked still, as a result you can open the door even when locked. weird...

Will have a proper look tomorrow in the light.

 

[Adebendanchris]

Had exactly the same issue when replacing mine. Spent ages trying to get the wire on the cog. Even though others have got it to work I had to admit defeat and order a full replacement from mb. Was none in the country at the time (bit surprised as it's a common issue - awful design) but got one after 3 days. Refitting it was very easy. Cost about £100. You will need to make some fine adjustments on the clamp to get it to close perfectly. Fiddly but satisfying when all done!

 

[KillerHERTZ]

Had exactly the same issue when replacing mine. Spent ages trying to get the wire on the cog. Even though others have got it to work I had to admit defeat and order a full replacement from mb. Was none in the country at the time (bit surprised as it's a common issue - awful design) but got one after 3 days. Refitting it was very easy. Cost about £100. You will need to make some fine adjustments on the clamp to get it to close perfectly. Fiddly but satisfying when all done!

Yeah Im thinking the same, we have tried all morning again to no avail

You wouldnt happen to know the part/kit number from MB?

 

[Adebendanchris]

Invoice shows description of goods as

MA219 720.03.46 n/stock 056268 Window Regulator.

Was more expensive than I remembered £137 + vat.

But worth it not to have to bu**er about with those bits of plastic and cable anymore!

Could be worse MB at the time quoted me about £300+ VAT to have the repair done.

Looking on eBay parts number referenced is A2197201046.

Genuine Mercedes-Benz CLS 219 RHF (Driver) Window Regulator A2197201046 *NEW* | eBay

Good luck with the refit.

 

[trickyjacks]

I'm going to have a go at this repair at the weekend. The strange thing with mine though is the window will raise and lower about half an inch with the switches and also raise and lower as you open and close the door But it won't fully close. Would I still get this movement with the cable snapped? New to this forum and found this thread and just like to say thanks for all this great info.

 

[trickyjacks]

Just a quick update all done . Bought one of cheap kits of ebay. Took around 3 hours and good as new once again thankyou for this great how to.

 

[charlieboy2608]

Can somebody confirm which cable is inserted onto the front face of the plastic motor driven pully when looking from the motor side please.

 

[charlieboy2608]

Could somebody please confirm which cable is inserted into the front of the plastic pulley wheel when looking from the motor connection side (pulley wheel gear to motor engagement side)

 

[charlieboy2608]

I have brought a kit from ebay.The cables are different lengths obviously but I seem to have a lot of slack on the longer one-is this right?

 

[Sdf1965]

Hi, bought kit from Amazon, c£9.00, I battled with getting tension on the cables, unless you do so cable will simply fall off one of the pulleys or window won't reach top of door on closure. took a lot of time and effort but finally done, when the tensioners are then released the cables are as tight as a guitar string!

One concern I still have is that slight drop and rise when opening and closing door isn't consistent....any thoughts anyone??

 

[P11EGG]

Window regulator repair

What a good write up, many thanks to the thread starter. I have spent the last couple of days doing this so have a bit of experience to call upon, here are my thoughts. Firstly there is no need to use tywraps to compress the two parts of the white tensioner. If you squeeze them together before putting the cable through there is a hole 3/4 of the way down where you can insert a small nail (I used a pop rivet) to hold the two parts compressed. Secondly the shorter cable is closer to 1 metre in length and goes around the centre wheel 1.25 turns. Thirdly when assembling the cables do not put them completely around the pulleys as you will never be able t get the tension right. There is like a cam shaped grove on each face for the cable to go in, once everything is assembled and fed around the pulleys pull the pin out of the compressed white bit. Then by sliding the runners up/down the sliders they can be fitted entirely around the pulley wheels. When tensioned they are like guitar strings. In answer to Charlieboy2608, the bottom cable goes on the front. I have bought 3metres of 1.5mm cable (£1.75/m = £5.25) and spent another couple of hours making crimps to go on the ends, yet on eBay you can buy a complete regulator repair kit including new springs/tensioner sand centre wheel for only £7.99 with free p&p, hardly worth the effort of making them yourself. Finally here is a YouTube video on how to remove the regulator, out and in in 27 minutes. https://youtu.be/UXHaWXLMtGU

 

[P11EGG]

Sdf1965 make sure you have the striker plate around the door catch fitted correctly (about 1min 23secs into YouTube vid). Then it should be hold button fully shut for 4 seconds, then fully open for 4 seconds then it should be reset

 

[Sdf1965]

P11EGG, thanks, seemed that after a number of opens and closures window behaves as it should, my only issue now is window has slightly tilted forward meaning the trailing edge of the glass doesn't Seal properly, now weather has improved I'll take door card off again and reset...cars, don't you love 'em

 

[P11EGG]

SDF1965, when I've removed/disconnected everything to do this repair, folding mirrors on locking does not work, but after a short journey it does. It's almost as if the car needs to learn how to do it again. Had similar problems with auto wipers after a screen change and don't mention the dreaded SBC hold. And as for the secondary air injection pump������. But luckily I enjoy my cars and enjoy tinkering even more, I hate to be beaten by anything.

 

[kupplungen]

Thanks for the tips guys, I bought the cable set from ebay. When I coulon't fitt eh cables (too loose or too tight) I wished I'd bought the regulator assembly ! Anyway, do or die I decided to shorten the sleeving near the left hand pulley by about 15mm as my cables seemed to be half way between where they needed to be to fit the rotor pulley. A bit of effort with some pliers to unwind the steel sheath, but snipped it off and bingo, it all went together, the easiest way as Cerjones said is to assemble the cablesa round the pulley first then pull it over the left hand wheel.
Another tip from me would be don't move the dead stops this will help get the window height right, and refit the window with it half way down to enable you to see the clamps and window position to get it right before tightening.
Real pain of a job, but helped so much when you see the video on you tube and tips on here, thanks !