Codes P208027 and P200A75

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dazblink

New Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
24
Location
Cannock, UK
Car
2012 C250 CDI Estate
I'm getting the following codes and the EML comes on about 3 or 4 journeys after clearing codes.

P208027 - Temperature sensor 1 Exhaust sytem (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction. The signal change rate is above the permissible limit value
P200A75 - The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction. The emergency position was not reached

I fitted a new temperature sensor but still get the code. The sensor I bought was a cheap one that i found on ebay - less than half the price of a genuine one. Could be that its a crappy sensor but thought i'd get your opinions before swapping it again for a genuine one.

The other code i don't know much about other than my mate saying I would need a very costly new manifold? Although he did say something about having it re mapped with the code deleted so the ecu doesn't detect a problem? What are your thoughts on this?

Is there anyway at all the 2 codes could be linked?
 
Just to add. I checked the dpf fill level and its at over 400% full. I dont know if this is factor in this issue. I plan to force a regen of the dpf this weekend to hopefully clear it out.
 
Goodluck with the regen. How are you going about it ?
 
I fitted a new temperature sensor but still get the code. The sensor I bought was a cheap one that i found on ebay - less than half the price of a genuine one. Could be that its a crappy sensor but thought i'd get your opinions before swapping it again for a genuine one.
In my experience, it almost never pays to buy cheap sensors off ebay, and one is better off buying genuine MB sensors (or from the OEM that supplies the sensors to MB).

The other code i don't know much about other than my mate saying I would need a very costly new manifold? Although he did say something about having it re mapped with the code deleted so the ecu doesn't detect a problem? What are your thoughts on this?
Just had the manifold replaced in my W205 to address a recurring EML caused by a swirl flap failure. Likely for me, the extended warranty covered the manifold replacement although MB had my car for almost a full month (over the Christmas period) to complete this repair.

If the fault is caused by a breakage in the plastic control arm to the swirl flaps, then there are aftermarket repair kits that can replace the plastic swirl flap control arm with a more reliable metal arm. However, in my case, the control arm was fully intact with the fault lies somewhere else within the manifold assembly requiring a complete manifold assembly to be fitted.
 
In my experience, it almost never pays to buy cheap sensors off ebay, and one is better off buying genuine MB sensors (or from the OEM that supplies the sensors to MB).


Just had the manifold replaced in my W205 to address a recurring EML caused by a swirl flap failure. Likely for me, the extended warranty covered the manifold replacement although MB had my car for almost a full month (over the Christmas period) to complete this repair.

If the fault is caused by a breakage in the plastic control arm to the swirl flaps, then there are aftermarket repair kits that can replace the plastic swirl flap control arm with a more reliable metal arm. However, in my case, the control arm was fully intact with the fault lies somewhere else within the manifold assembly requiring a complete manifold assembly to be fitted.

Thank for the reply. I think assuming the regen does nothing for clearing the sensor fault i will book for car in to get an oem sensor fitted.

Thanks for the info on the swirl flaps. If the EML still comes on after the sensor issue is sorted, I will look into the swirl flap issue and may consider a swirl flap delete if it turns out to be a new manifold job because I cant afford that! I'm not sure on the downsides to doing this but I heard there is no noticeable performance issues.
 
Thanks for the info on the swirl flaps. If the EML still comes on after the sensor issue is sorted, I will look into the swirl flap issue and may consider a swirl flap delete if it turns out to be a new manifold job because I cant afford that! I'm not sure on the downsides to doing this but I heard there is no noticeable performance issues.
I am interested in the swirl flap delete too (from a technical point of view). I do not fully understand how the swirl flaps improve emission to be honest - mine looked a little sooty, so it must be part of the EGR system?
 
So on Friday I forced a regen whilst driving using my icarsoft. It seemed like it was doing the trick as the exhaust reached temperatures of up to 700 degrees and I watched as the dpf fill level came down from over 400% full to around 150% which is still obviously very high. I didn't initially plan on doing it on Friday because I didn't have much time but I was having a little play and next thing I knew it was performing the regen. So after around 30 minutes of driving I ran out of time as I had things to do so I left it there and planned on running it again over the weekend. When I came to do it again the icarsoft would let me perform it saying that the dpf is too full. I thought things were moving in the right direction as it had apparently came down from over 400% to 150% but now its reading around 360% full and rising.

I now have my EML on and a code P246309 (The soot content of the dpf is not ok) and the car lacks power. Funny thing is though the other 2 fault codes have not came back. Maybe they will do but they have not appeared yet.
 
I've decided to go ahead with the swirl delete and get the dpf deleted too! Sod it, I might even get the egr gone too! Its all too much of a headache. Having the stage 1 map put in while i'm at it :D

I got a mate who will do the lot for £400, it's a no brainer
 
I'm getting the following codes and the EML comes on about 3 or 4 journeys after clearing codes.

P208027 - Temperature sensor 1 Exhaust sytem (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction. The signal change rate is above the permissible limit value
P200A75 - The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction. The emergency position was not reached

I fitted a new temperature sensor but still get the code. The sensor I bought was a cheap one that i found on ebay - less than half the price of a genuine one. Could be that its a crappy sensor but thought i'd get your opinions before swapping it again for a genuine one.

The other code i don't know much about other than my mate saying I would need a very costly new manifold? Although he did say something about having it re mapped with the code deleted so the ecu doesn't detect a problem? What are your thoughts on this?

Is there anyway at all the 2 codes could be linked?
What temperature sensor you change for the code P208027? I change 3 until to find the correct :)
 

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