Comand 2.0 Pin connections ?

[kwano]

Perhaps Aflie, Flyer & Silversaloon could assist here.

My W210 facelift model, 2002 E220 CDI Estate (with Multi function steering wheel, MB 6 disc CD changer and factory fitted Nokia 6210 Phone)

I have read various posts and links and just need some confirmation before I make the required connections for my Comand unit 210 820 5489 with CANBUS.

My original C connector (to my Audio 10 unit) is as follows :

Pin 01 – Red / Brown wire – Can Hi
Pin 02 – Brown wire – Can Lo
Pin 03 – Blank
Pin 04 – Blue / Black wire – Wake up D2B for CD Changer
Pin 05 – Black wire - (-)Negative
Pin 06 – Brown wire - (+)Positive
Pin 07 – Blank
Pin 08 – Blank
Pin 09 – Blank
Pin 10 – Blank

Can anyone confirm that the description above is correct for each coloured wire.

The new relevant pin connections layout should I believe be as follows :

C1 Connector :

Pin 05 – (-) Power CD Changer - Black wire - (-)Negative
Pin 06 – (+)Power CD Changer - Brown wire - (+)Positive

C2 Connector :

Pin 04 - Aux in right
Pin 05 - Aux in GND (right)
Pin 06 - Speedsignal - locate & connect green/black wire

Pin 08 - CAN Lo - Connect to Brown wire
Pin 09 - CAN Hi - Connec to Brown/Red wire
Pin 10 - Wake up D2B to CD-changer (to wake up CD changer) - Connect to Blue/Black wire

Pin 13 - Aux in left
Pin 14 - Aux in shield (or aux in GND left)

I think the new connections are as described above. I haven't got the cable/adaptor for the AUX connections yet so won't know the cable colours.

Also I read a post from Paul Grainger back in Jan 2003 that if your car is CANBUS equipped then it may not be necessary to connect the Speedsignal to Pin 06 on the C2 Connector. Any thoughts here guys ?

Oh, just another point. I haven't seen much about connections of factory fit phones to Comand - how does this work and is there any connections I need to make. In the current setup it works off the Audio 10 - I think the connections are from the original A Connector currently as :

Pin 02 - Grey wire
Pin 04 - Red/White stripe wire
Pin 05 - Blue/Whie stripe wire
Pin 08 - Brown wire

Sorry for the lengthy post guys - I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks all in advance.

 

[SilverSaloon]

Perhaps Aflie, Flyer & Silversaloon could assist here.

hi. i think alfie may be best to advise here as he converted the C connector to C1 and C2....

i think he did a how to - check the how to section for it... the CLK will be the same as your Eclass.

 

[kwano]

Anyone out there

 

[Flyer]

Great mod! You won't look back once it's done, which isn't difficult and you're doing the right thing by being methodical about it.

My original C connector (to my Audio 10 unit) is as follows :

Pin 01 – Red / Brown wire – Can Hi
Pin 02 – Brown wire – Can Lo
Pin 03 – Blank
Pin 04 – Blue / Black wire – Wake up D2B for CD Changer
Pin 05 – Black wire - (-)Negative
Pin 06 – Brown wire - (+)Positive
Pin 07 – Blank
Pin 08 – Blank
Pin 09 – Blank
Pin 10 – Blank

Looks good.

C1 Connector :

Pin 05 – (-) Power CD Changer - Black wire - (-)Negative
Pin 06 – (+)Power CD Changer - Brown wire - (+)Positive

Think they are reversed, should be:

C1/05 : CD Changer Neg : Brown (from C/06)
C1/06 : CD Changer Pos : Black (from C/05)

and then:

C2/08 : CANBus Lo : Brown (from C/02)
C2/09 : CANBus Hi : Brown/Red (from C/01)
C2/10 : D2B Wakeup : Blue/Black (from C/04)

C2 Connector :

Pin 04 - Aux in right
Pin 05 - Aux in GND (right)
Pin 06 - Speedsignal - locate & connect green/black wire
Pin 13 - Aux in left
Pin 14 - Aux in shield (or aux in GND left)

Looks good.

I think the new connections are as described above. I haven't got the cable/adaptor for the AUX connections yet so won't know the cable colours.

C2/04 : AuxIn Right : Yellow
C2/05 : AuxIn Right GND : Brown
C2/13 : AuxIn Left : Black
C2/14 : AuxIn Left GND : Shield

Also I read a post from Paul Grainger back in Jan 2003 that if your car is CANBUS equipped then it may not be necessary to connect the Speedsignal to Pin 06 on the C2 Connector. Any thoughts here guys ?

You need to bridge A/01 to C2/06 to provide the speed signal.

Oh, just another point. I haven't seen much about connections of factory fit phones to Comand - how does this work and is there any connections I need to make.

From the limited info I have on this, I'd say you have all the connections already made, except you seem to be missing A/03 : Telephone Mute. I don't have any more info on this, sorry.

Apologies for the slow response and hope this helps. Come back with any more questions

 

[kwano]

Hi Flyer, thanks for your confirmation and correcting my mistakes !

Just another query, you say "You need to bridge A/01 to C2/06 to provide the speed signal." however, on original A/01 there is no physical connection there ? I understand from Alfie's fab 'How to guide' he mentions to tap into the speed pulse wire (located in the sill) but do you still need to bridge A01 to C2/06 if there is no connection on A/01 ?

Thanks again for all help. I'm picking up the bits from the Dealer tomorrow and I guess I'll be in the car most of the weekend !!!

 

[Alfie]

Hi Flyer, thanks for your confirmation and correcting my mistakes !

Just another query, you say "You need to bridge A/01 to C2/06 to provide the speed signal." however, on original A/01 there is no physical connection there ? I understand from Alfie's fab 'How to guide' he mentions to tap into the speed pulse wire (located in the sill) but do you still need to bridge A01 to C2/06 if there is no connection on A/01 ?

Thanks again for all help. I'm picking up the bits from the Dealer tomorrow and I guess I'll be in the car most of the weekend !!!

Yes you do need to bridge the two pins. There was no pin in my connector either so I had to find the speed pulse and then connect it to both pins.

Good luck

 

[Alfie]

Perhaps Aflie, Flyer & Silversaloon could assist here.
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Also I read a post from Paul Grainger back in Jan 2003 that if your car is CANBUS equipped then it may not be necessary to connect the Speedsignal to Pin 06 on the C2 Connector. Any thoughts here guys ?
.

Yes you do need the speed pulse connected. Without it your COMAND wont work properly. This was the last thing I did when connecting mine up and until I did it, the COMAND wouldnt update my position.

Hope this helps.

 

[Flyer]

Just another query, you say "You need to bridge A/01 to C2/06 to provide the speed signal." however, on original A/01 there is no physical connection there ? I understand from Alfie's fab 'How to guide' he mentions to tap into the speed pulse wire (located in the sill) but do you still need to bridge A01 to C2/06 if there is no connection on A/01 ?

Yep, take the cable from the sill into C2/06 and then bridge it to A/01. I don't think you need A/01 (think it takes the speed to adjust the volume), but MB do, so best to follow that

Thanks again for all help. I'm picking up the bits from the Dealer tomorrow and I guess I'll be in the car most of the weekend !!!

Good luck with it, you shouldn't have any problems. Post pics when it's done please!

 

[kwano]

Guys - Flyer & Alfie much appreciated for your updates.

Somewhat deflated at the moment . I've got the parts from the Dealer this afternoon and theres a couple of more bits I need to order .

The GPS Antenna which arrived came with the WICLIC end instead of the HRS end (which connects direct into the Comand !). The part no. I quoted was 203 820 0975 which I picked up from Miata's guide (being the most relevant to my car) but the chap from MB advise this part has been superseeded by B678 231 00 which is the one in Alfie's guide. Therefore, I've got little choice but to order the extension cable WICLIC to HRS adapter part no. A203 540 7006 ! Another £25 + VAT !

Looks like I may should have ordered part no. A230 820 0875 (quoted approx £45 + VAT) which is quoted in the Ibex guide which is 'normally used on the SL' . So any budding people looking for a direct fit GPS Antenna please beware otherwise an adapter/extension cable will be required.

Also the Pin Bushing (part no. A008 545 5526) packet I received only had a quantity of 5 !! - I think a couple of more packets are needed. I note from Alfie's guide there was 15 in his bag !

Just a small point. I've plugged in the C1 connector to check it fits ok but it doesn't seem to want to come out ! Do you have to squeeze it or something or is there a special technique ?

BTW the Comand came with a green gyroscope clip (20 degrees) although it is a 210 82 5489 model. In the Ibex guide it mentions it should be a Yellow clip (25 degrees) - is this really critical to the functionality ?

Looks like I'll be doing some other DIY this weekend !

Again all, thanks for the input and advice.

 

[kwano]

Panic over - C1 connector out needed a little persuasion !

 

[Flyer]

The GPS Antenna which arrived came with the WICLIC end instead of the HRS end (which connects direct into the Comand !). The part no. I quoted was 203 820 0975 which I picked up from Miata's guide (being the most relevant to my car) but the chap from MB advise this part has been superseeded by B678 231 00 which is the one in Alfie's guide. Therefore, I've got little choice but to order the extension cable WICLIC to HRS adapter part no. A203 540 7006 ! Another £25 + VAT !

Looks like I may should have ordered part no. A230 820 0875 (quoted approx £45 + VAT) which is quoted in the Ibex guide which is 'normally used on the SL' . So any budding people looking for a direct fit GPS Antenna please beware otherwise an adapter/extension cable will be required.

Nope, the extension cable is needed. Have a look at my thread and Steve K's reply here .

Also the Pin Bushing (part no. A008 545 5526) packet I received only had a quantity of 5 !! - I think a couple of more packets are needed. I note from Alfie's guide there was 15 in his bag !

That part number only comes with 5 pins. Think Alfie must be on good terms with his parts guy

BTW the Comand came with a green gyroscope clip (20 degrees) although it is a 210 82 5489 model. In the Ibex guide it mentions it should be a Yellow clip (25 degrees) - is this really critical to the functionality ?

Doesn't matter; I've got a 210 clip in my 208.

Good to see you got the C1 connector out

I must have been composing my previous message when Alfie replied so you got two replies saying the same thing

Stuff the DIY; work on fitting COMAND (say he, who is decorating this weekend )

 

[miro]

Should look something like this in a W210

 

[miro]

Guys - Flyer & Alfie much appreciated for your updates.

Somewhat deflated at the moment . I've got the parts from the Dealer this afternoon and theres a couple of more bits I need to order .

The GPS Antenna which arrived came with the WICLIC end instead of the HRS end (which connects direct into the Comand !). The part no. I quoted was 203 820 0975 which I picked up from Miata's guide (being the most relevant to my car) but the chap from MB advise this part has been superseeded by B678 231 00 which is the one in Alfie's guide. Therefore, I've got little choice but to order the extension cable WICLIC to HRS adapter part no. A203 540 7006 ! Another £25 + VAT !

Looks like I may should have ordered part no. A230 820 0875 (quoted approx £45 + VAT) which is quoted in the Ibex guide which is 'normally used on the SL' . So any budding people looking for a direct fit GPS Antenna please beware otherwise an adapter/extension cable will be required.

Also the Pin Bushing (part no. A008 545 5526) packet I received only had a quantity of 5 !! - I think a couple of more packets are needed. I note from Alfie's guide there was 15 in his bag !

Just a small point. I've plugged in the C1 connector to check it fits ok but it doesn't seem to want to come out ! Do you have to squeeze it or something or is there a special technique ?

BTW the Comand came with a green gyroscope clip (20 degrees) although it is a 210 82 5489 model. In the Ibex guide it mentions it should be a Yellow clip (25 degrees) - is this really critical to the functionality ?

Looks like I'll be doing some other DIY this weekend !

Again all, thanks for the input and advice.

There is no such thing as a direct fit GPS antenna. All of the ones on sale come with a WICLIC connector. The ones on eBay and so on with the HRS connector directly attached have been modified. The HR5 Hirose connector can also be bought from various sources.

Steve sells the modified antenna so there is no need to order additional cables. Alternately you can drop the roof lining and drill a hole as I did.

 

[miro]

As a note aside.

You may notice that the W210 COMAND comes with a radio diversity connection which the radio version car doesnt have. To install this function you need to replace the rear windscreen, run new cables and remove most of the interior to do so. The one ampifier gets replaced with 4 and the car is then also TV ready.

The only reason I mention this is that one of my clients is actually paying for this to be done.

 

[miro]

Im most if not all of the installer guides out there the document fails to mention that if you install the COMAND in the W208 and W210 that a diagnostic pin in the diagnostic header has to be relocated.

The connector is surprisingly easy to dismantle. The header is attached with two screws. There is a lock pin on the side which slides out and looks like a large hair pin. The underside has a semi-circle which unclips and slides out and then that also has a lock pin.

Once released, all of the pins can be removed but only the K-Line pin needs to shift over one position.

Usually when the car is radio only there is a pin located in position 33. When you have COMAND the pin has to move over to location 34.

Unless you perform this change the COMAND and the cluster will not respond correctly to coding functions.

Front time to time you need to change the number of ABS teeth in the software setting because the COMAND exceeds or lags behind the car's actual location. Some clients with exotic wheel sizes find that the ABS teeth count in the stored COMAND parameter is not valid for the car setup and the result is erratic car location.

Reducing the count increases the distance travelled by the car.

 

[kwano]

Thanks Flyer & Miro - I understand now that all MB OEM GPS Antennas come with WICLIC connectors and I haven't wasted my money ! MBenzNL quote 18.08.03 :

every single OEM MB GPS antenna comes with that same wicklick connector...the 203, 209 and 230 partnumbered GPS antenna are all alike with the only difference that the cable is a bit shorter for the 209 antenna and a lot shorter for the 230 antenna...but they do all use the same wicklick antenna - so you had to use that extension cable anyways.

... And the one's that do come with the HRS connector are retrofitted such as the one from AUDIOCOMP.

Originally posted by miro: You may notice that the W210 COMAND comes with a radio diversity connection which the radio version car doesnt have. To install this function you need to replace the rear windscreen, run new cables and remove most of the interior to do so. The one ampifier gets replaced with 4 and the car is then also TV ready.

Good to know but a bit too extreme for me !

Originally posted by Miro :In most if not all of the installer guides out there the document fails to mention that if you install the COMAND in the W208 and W210 that a diagnostic pin in the diagnostic header has to be relocated.

The connector is surprisingly easy to dismantle. The header is attached with two screws. There is a lock pin on the side which slides out and looks like a large hair pin. The underside has a semi-circle which unclips and slides out and then that also has a lock pin.

Once released, all of the pins can be removed but only the K-Line pin needs to shift over one position.

Usually when the car is radio only there is a pin located in position 33. When you have COMAND the pin has to move over to location 34.

Unless you perform this change the COMAND and the cluster will not respond correctly to coding functions.

Front time to time you need to change the number of ABS teeth in the software setting because the COMAND exceeds or lags behind the car's actual location. Some clients with exotic wheel sizes find that the ABS teeth count in the stored COMAND parameter is not valid for the car setup and the result is erratic car location.

Reducing the count increases the distance travelled by the car.

Yes, Miro this appears to be only highlighted in the Ibex guide which I assume is the one located near the fusebox under the bonnet ? Can you confirm where it is exactly on my W210 ? Also, from the way you have explained it I take it this is a straight forward task ?

On a final note, the bridge connection from C2/PIN 06 to A/PIN 01 (Speedsignal) requires a wider Pin in the A connector - I've not seen a part no. in any of the guides - can a generic pin be used and purchased from anywhere ?

 

[miro]

Thanks Flyer & Miro - I understand now that all MB OEM GPS Antennas come with WICLIC connectors and I haven't wasted my money ! MBenzNL quote 18.08.03 :


... And the one's that do come with the HRS connector are retrofitted such as the one from AUDIOCOMP.


Good to know but a bit too extreme for me !


Yes, Miro this appears to be only highlighted in the Ibex guide which I assume is the one located near the fusebox under the bonnet ? Can you confirm where it is exactly on my W210 ?

On a final note, the bridge connection from C2/PIN 06 to A/PIN 01 (Speedsignal) requires a wider Pin in the A connector - I've not seen a part no. in any of the guides - can a generic pin be used and purchased from anywhere ?

The connector is the one used for diagnostic. My friends W210 was on the right side and the CLK55 I worked on was on the left side.

In some cases there is a large single piece cover and on the CLK there was a port cover with a 13mm HEX head. I still had to remove the whole cover to work on the connector.

It should be a 36 pin header.

The small pins are called MQS pins and the larger ones are called JPT and both can be ordered from the W209 or W203 EPC by looking on the back of the head unit in section 82.

JPT = A 011 545 81 26 (0.5 - 1.0mm)


The wiring harness breaks down to the pins and the numbers.

Dont forget that the COMAND in the newer models (with buttons on steering) get the CANBUS information for illumination and probably dont need additional speed pulse.

The volume compensation in the absence of diversity antennas is a bit of overkill since you have one antenna instead of four.

 

[kwano]

Miro, thanks for the technical info but I am a bit phased by it all. Looks like this is getting more in depth than I thought

The diagrams are very helpful. I assume the one I'm looking at is marked 'X11/4' ?

The small pins are called MQS pins and the larger ones are called JPT and both can be ordered from the W209 or W203 EPC by looking on the back of the head unit in section 82.

JPT = A 011 545 81 26 (0.5 - 1.0mm)

Can you explain a little clearer for him me being a bit thick ! I take it I need to order extra pins ?

Dont forget that the COMAND in the newer models (with buttons on steering) get the CANBUS information for illumination and probably dont need additional speed pulse.

Even more confused now ! Conflicting info. I do have the newer model (facelifted with CANBUS) so do I need to connect Speedpulse or not ? It would save time/effort if I don't of course !

Much obliged for your very helpful advice Miro.

 

[miro]

Miro, thanks for the technical info but I am a bit phased by it all. Looks like this is getting more in depth than I thought

The diagrams are very helpful. I assume the one I'm looking at is marked 'X11/4' ?


Can you explain a little clearer for him me being a bit thick ! I take it I need to order extra pins ?


Even more confused now ! Conflicting info. I do have the newer model (facelifted with CANBUS) so do I need to connect Speedpulse or not ? It would save time/effort if I don't of course !

Much obliged for your very helpful advice Miro.

The matter at hand was the second speed pulse to the Connector A pin 1. I feel that it makes no difference. If one is to be perfectly correct the amplifiers need to be changed in the rear glass and so on.

Why dont you jot down what you intend to do. Then at least we can see if you have the situation under control.

I presume that you have the dashboard frame and the replacement wood panel as I have done this mod before and its not difficult the second time. Getting the old frame out is quite a task.

 

[miro]

The diagrams are very helpful. I assume the one I'm looking at is marked 'X11/4' ?

Look at the round connector and observe that the bottom half is an insert in the top half. Once the side retainer is removed the lower part is able to slide out. The second retainer is inside that removed section and that frees the pins to come out.