Comand pin check

[martynljones]

Heres one for Alfie I suspect

Ive fitted a w210 comand into a facelifted w208 with no problems, and its working fine. Its off in for a service next week, and to hopefully get the dash readout enabled at the same time.

After reading through the forum, Im confused as whether I should swap the pins in the diagnostic connector under the bonnet from 33 to 34. If so, Id obviously like to get this done beforehand.

I took out an Audio10 beforehand.


Thanks for your help

 

[Rose Chap]

Incredible coincidence!

I'm about to undertake this venture (weather permitting tomorrow) on my W208 CLK.

You don't need to swap the pins to get navigation arrows enabled in the cluster, but it is necessary if you want the MB diagnostic machinery to be able to interrogate the COMAND as well as the other equipment. More about this can be found here...

http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=23088

I'm planning to take pictures and fully document this for the benefit of other forum members, so stay tuned.

 

[martynljones]

Thanks Rose Chap, Ive been following your exploits for some time now


Now I was poking around ebay, and came across this.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Star-Diagnosis-Mercedes-DAS-DVD-10-5-EPC-WIS-PRICE-LIST_W0QQitemZ8043818553QQcategoryZ18421QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


A copy of the Star software

Am I right to assume, with the correct lead (also on ebay for around £30), I will be able to plug my laptop into my w208 and cause all sorts of problems. In particular, enable dash for satnav etc.

Before I get slated for even wanting to attempt such a task, Im familiar with the care that needs to be taken with such things

 

[miro]

A copy of the Star software

Am I right to assume, with the correct lead (also on ebay for around £30), I will be able to plug my laptop into my w208 and cause all sorts of problems. In particular, enable dash for satnav etc.

Rest assured that isnt even 1% of how it works.

 

[miro]

I may have described it verbally before. Here goes ......

Remove cover plate on front engine bay fuse box by removing several small captive screws (they stay in the lid)

Remove two screws from housing of 38 pin diagnostic connector

Gently ease up the connector to give working space on assembly. BE mindful of wires.

Observe the assembly very well. It is one outer shell with a semi-circular insert. The insert is locked into place in the middle of the connector.

Insert a fine guage tool into the locking pin and release the insert by pulling it out towards the wire side.

Once removed the insert has a lock pin (like a puzzle box) The pin is made to slide out sideways it will then unlock all of the pins in the insert. Use a fine tool for this.

Do not pull on the connector as it will cause all of the wires to be dislodged from the insert.

Trace pin 33 by carefully reading the numbering system on the face of the connector (pin side not wire side)

Remove pin 33 and transfer it to pin 34.

Assemble.

If the item wont assemble it means that one of the insert pins are not correctly seated.

 

[martynljones]

Thanks Miro, job done.

 

[Alfie]

Heres one for Alfie I suspect

Ive fitted a w210 comand into a facelifted w208 with no problems, and its working fine. Its off in for a service next week, and to hopefully get the dash readout enabled at the same time.

After reading through the forum, Im confused as whether I should swap the pins in the diagnostic connector under the bonnet from 33 to 34. If so, Id obviously like to get this done beforehand.

I took out an Audio10 beforehand.


Thanks for your help

I believe Miro has sorted it for you. Well done.

 

[Rose Chap]

Grrrr, I tried doing mine yesterday. All was going swimmingly until I tried to undo the last screw holding the housing in place only to find it had sheared off the restraining block it screws into - meaning as I turn the screw the whole screw and block thingy turns, so currently I have no idea how I'm going to do this.

Why is nothing ever easy?

 

[miro]

Grrrr, I tried doing mine yesterday. All was going swimmingly until I tried to undo the last screw holding the housing in place only to find it had sheared off the restraining block it screws into - meaning as I turn the screw the whole screw and block thingy turns, so currently I have no idea how I'm going to do this.

Why is nothing ever easy?

Probably lift up the housing with a second screwdriver so that the rotating plastic jams up against the underside of the assembly it was once attached to. That pressure should hopefully give a turning resistance and let the thread out.

I dont know what would be easiest. Can you get under it ?