Command Install Quick Questions

[Mad-max]

I'm installing the Comand unit into my 2000 CLK Cab and I have a couple of quick questions.

a. Should I disconnect the battery before soldering the C1 / C2 harness to the C connection?

b. Where is the speed sensor and reversing wires on the CLK. I have been told that it is on the passenger side door sill. What color are they? How do they install?

c. How does the bracket install to support the Comand unit.

Thanks in advance
Mad-Max

 

[SilverSaloon]

I'm installing the Comand unit into my 2000 CLK Cab and I have a couple of quick questions.

a. Should I disconnect the battery before soldering the C1 / C2 harness to the C connection?

b. Where is the speed sensor and reversing wires on the CLK. I have been told that it is on the passenger side door sill. What color are they? How do they install?

c. How does the bracket install to support the Comand unit.

Thanks in advance
Mad-Max

see the how-to in the how-to section on how to fit to your car.... i followed this and was fine in my CLK

 

[miro]

I'm installing the Comand unit into my 2000 CLK Cab and I have a couple of quick questions.

a. Should I disconnect the battery before soldering the C1 / C2 harness to the C connection?

b. Where is the speed sensor and reversing wires on the CLK. I have been told that it is on the passenger side door sill. What color are they? How do they install?

c. How does the bracket install to support the Comand unit.

Thanks in advance
Mad-Max

You shouldnt be soldering anything. These are crimp only harnesses. If you apply heat you will melt the plastic coat.

No reversing wire is needed.

Make sure your comand has the gyroscope angle set correctly.

 

[Flyer]

You shouldnt be soldering anything. These are crimp only harnesses. If you apply heat you will melt the plastic coat.

Disagree there completely Miro. When splicing, cables should be stripped back, connections should be soldered and either heatshrink or electrical tape applied to cover the join. The pins for the C1/C2 connecter should definitely be soldered to ensure a reliable connection. Melting the plastic coat isn't an issue if done (even half ) correctly.

Mad-max, yes, disconnect the battery. Better to be safe than sorry! You may find the speed sensor behind your existing h/u. From memory, the wire is blue/green, but check for past forum posts; search on comand and there will be loads of info

Re; bracket: I found one wasn't necessary as the tight space and fitting clips secure it enough.

 

[miro]

Disagree there completely Miro. When splicing, cables should be stripped back, connections should be soldered and either heatshrink or electrical tape applied to cover the join. The pins for the C1/C2 connecter should definitely be soldered to ensure a reliable connection. Melting the plastic coat isn't an issue if done (even half ) correctly.

Mad-max, yes, disconnect the battery. Better to be safe than sorry! You may find the speed sensor behind your existing h/u. From memory, the wire is blue/green, but check for past forum posts; search on comand and there will be loads of info

Re; bracket: I found one wasn't necessary as the tight space and fitting clips secure it enough.

Im sorry but I have not seen any evidence of this method in the factory specification. That is the only standard I apply.

 

[GrahamC230K]

Im sorry but I have not seen any evidence of this method in the factory specification. That is the only standard I apply.

The problem is there is no factory specification for a retro fit is there?

The soldering advice sounds good.

 

[eamonn]

I'm installing the Comand unit into my 2000 CLK Cab and I have a couple of quick questions.

a. Should I disconnect the battery before soldering the C1 / C2 harness to the C connection?

b. Where is the speed sensor and reversing wires on the CLK. I have been told that it is on the passenger side door sill. What color are they? How do they install?

c. How does the bracket install to support the Comand unit.

Thanks in advance
Mad-Max

I'm installing Command into my facelift w208 next week. When you planning to do yours? pm me

One quick question - which way up for the gps antenna? The one I've been supplied is third party & mounts onto a magnetic pad but has no instructions as to whether the pad should be placed above or below the intended install sight.

I'd assume it goes below the antenna but rather than have to take everything apart again & try & peel off the sticky-backed mag pad I thought it best to check

 

[miro]

The problem is there is no factory specification for a retro fit is there?

The soldering advice sounds good.

Are you asking me or telling me. I have WIS data here and not one join is soldered. All factory repair kits are crimp kits.

Im too indignant to explain why soldering is wrong. I would rather let you experiment on your own car.

The real solution as a fellow member suggested to me in chat is to buy the full comand replacement loom and throw out the radio loom. That is in the factory spec.

Everyone else is just making things up for the hell of it.

 

[miro]

I'm installing Command into my facelift w208 next week. When you planning to do yours? pm me

One quick question - which way up for the gps antenna? The one I've been supplied is third party & mounts onto a magnetic pad but has no instructions as to whether the pad should be placed above or below the intended install sight.

I'd assume it goes below the antenna but rather than have to take everything apart again & try & peel off the sticky-backed mag pad I thought it best to check

Buy the factory antenna and hide it under the dashboard behind the instrument cluster. Do it right the first time and live to enjoy the benefits.

 

[Flyer]

Im sorry but I have not seen any evidence of this method in the factory specification. That is the only standard I apply.

Hmm, well the factory-fitted wiring on my car had the contact bushings soldered on (damn sight neater than mine!) for C1/C2, so I would suggest that was the factory specification at that time. Of course, standards have slipped somewhat at MB, so it's possible that you are seeing evidence of cost-cutting with those crimped connectors .

 

[miro]

Hmm, well the factory-fitted wiring on my car had the contact bushings soldered on (damn sight neater than mine!) for C1/C2, so I would suggest that was the factory specification at that time. Of course, standards have slipped somewhat at MB, so it's possible that you are seeing evidence of cost-cutting with those crimped connectors .

Oh I thought it was because the soldered connectors snap off due to metal fatigue. Crimp connectors are now used for that reason - its called vibration resistance in some circles.

It seems stupid to me that someone will warrant the cost of a connector as a sign of car value. The labour of installation costs more than the entire loom. The thread has been derailed by snickering about connector cost.

 

[Flyer]

Ha-ha!! You know, your posts have always struck me as being pretty robust and completely at odds with how the majority of members here post.

It seems stupid to me that someone will warrant the cost of a connector as a sign of car value.

Hmm, that's pretty close to calling me stupid. If I was as stiff as you, I would take offence, but I'm not . And of course, I didn't say that. We all know that MB have cut costs (and if you don't believe that, then you ARE stupid!) and my statement was a light-hearted way of saying that MB USED to solder their joints and IF they have changed to crimping their connectors, then it's POSSIBLE that it has been done for cost-saving reasons.

It would seem that you are always spoiling for an argument and the only person who has "derailed the thread" is you.

Mad-max, you have now been presented with two options; solder or crimp. Truly, the choice is yours. Makes no difference to anyone but yourself ...

but if it was me, I'd solder!

 

[SilverSaloon]

hehe, no ones mentioned the classic "twist and tape together" method, not that i would do that but just thought i'd ignite the thread again

seriously, soldering sounds best to me, but i opted for the crimp connections as i didnt have a soldering iron

 

[Mad-max]

Thanks guys for your input.

I will disconnect the battery, better safe than sorry. The reason for the soldering is because I have the harness with the C1 and C2 connections. I was unable to find the Male connection for the C connector. My perferred method would be to crimp the wires into the male C connecting them to the C1 and C2. This would have allowed me to do zero soldering. Since the alternative is to cut the Original C connection and join the wires other posts suggested soldering and using "Shrink Tubing" to cover the solder point.

Thanks, again for the input.

Any info on the bracket or is it obvious?

 

[marcos]

I am a fully qualified electrical engineer and I can see advantages from carrying out this work in the different ways mentioned above.
Personally I would solder the cables, the vibration issue does not really come into it if the joint is done properly and securely. Metal fatigue I would think is pretty irrelevant too as I have solder joins on machines that have been running for the past 15yrs with no problems whatsoever.

However, I can also see the advantages of a crimp type joint. They are very strong, easy to do for a novice compared to a good solder joint and are a damn site quicker/cheaper.

At the end of the day it is up to the end user, it's your car Mad-Max, so you choose, neither way mentioned is bad so do what you are happy with.

And will everyone stop bloody arguing, it's friday and I'm off down Baroosh for a few beers.

Good luck MM

 

[Will]

I vote again for a soldered joint - again, from a qualified electrical engineer's view, a soldered joint is a stronger and more reliable connection than a crimp.
Agreed, if you are messy with a soldering iron, or do not know what you are doing, then it may be a problem, but an electrical connection on a sensitive device that relies purely on a crude mechanical contact will not be as reliable as a correctly soldered connection IMHO.

As has been said before, it is your car that you are working on, and you can do what you like. If you are in a rush, or are not comfortable using a soldering iron, then crimp the connectors. Otherwise, I would be inclined to solder them.

Good luck with whatever you decide,

Will

 

[Flyer]

And will everyone stop bloody arguing, it's friday and I'm off down Baroosh for a few beers.

Indeed, I'm off to Newquay at 4am in the morning, so I am as chilled as can be .

 

[Shude]

no ones mentioned the classic "twist and tape together" method

That's how my old door mirrors worked until I swapped them for w210 versions!

 

[miro]

How many engineers does it take to tie a shoelace ?


Six,

One to solder the aglets on, three to weave the carbon fibre strands into the shoelace and apply for a new patent, one to rivet the leather together in case the shoelace fails and one to make a website with an operators manual and online ordering.

Clearly it takes 30 years of experience to do this job. That is why the worlds largest private seller of COMAND has been doing it for 2 years, sold over way over 2000 COMAND modules and never soldered one connection.

 

[marcos]

Miro,

I'm not saying that crimp joins are bad practice I just commented on how I would do it. Crimp joins are becoming much more poular due to ease of use, cost etc and are perfectly acceptable as a solder joint replacement. I'm pretty sure that within 10yrs no one will bother soldering as crimping etc will have replaced it completely. The biggest advantage with crimping is that you cant set your car alight. Unless you are a complete twinkle obviously

Marcos

edited for content by Shude