Corect cold start procedure

[SGCW124]

This might be a rally daft question- especially as Ive had my 88 200 Eclass auto estate for many months but....

Having a bit of trouble in the cold damp weather now but only on the first few miles of motoring ie. school runs

The car sometimes stalls

What is the correct starting procedure with relation to the auto choke?

Out of habit I just jump in crank the car and rev the loud pedal a few times usually?

however it is very cold and damp just now, so should it be:

Ignition on (partially) press loud pedal to floor as far as it can go, then turn key to start car and away you go ?

Does the ignition need to be on (partially or not) or is it a purely mechanical relationship with the accelerater and the auto choke.

Its well embarrasing when the motor stalls on the 1st roundabout !

Steve

 

[230K]

Hi

Think the correct cold start procedure is just turn the key and do not touch the accelerator.
I had a 190E which was very susceptable to poor leads and would goes perfectly from cold but after it had warmed up at one set of lights in particular it would miss and sometimes stall.

First thing i would do is remove the distributor and clean and dry inside and check for cracks, then check condition of plugs, then check for signs of arcing in the leads best done with car running in black dark. If you can see any sparks renew the leads.

Some of the rest of the guys could comment on warm up regulators etc if you can confirm if your car is a 200 (carb) or a 200E (injection).


Good luck and hope you get her running sweet soon.

230K

 

[SGCW124]

Thanks, I can confirm its a Carb engine.

Steve

 

[nickmann]

Thanks, I can confirm its a Carb engine.

Steve

If it's a variable venturi (VV) carb then it won't have a throttle pump, so pumping the gas pedal won't do anything. A fixed-jet on other hand will have a pump, so by pumping the pedal a couple of times you are dumping in extra fuel prior to starting. This may or may not be a good thing depending on how well your choke works.