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cossy very close to starting

190ian

Active Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
256
Location
ESSEX
Car
190e 1.8 (190e 2.3 16v)
After spending the odd few hours here and there trying to get my cossy started after changing a sprocket which had worn the teeth down to almost nothing,
putting the head back on,
camshafts back and lined up,
timing also set up
Had to change starter motor ,(was not spinning quick enough)
Try to start it nothing,:(
checked leads plugs dizi all fine and working,
changed cold start valve, tryed again nothing.:(
Checked fuel drained the tank changed fuel fillter put new fuel in tryed to start got more of a responce to new fuel:bannana:
She is very close to starting up but dont no what to try next, can anyone help:confused:
 

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Check the power of the spark with a flash test device and as grober said the correct timing. After that spray a small amount of petrol into the intake as it's being cranked. If it's fuel related this will make it run.
 
After more checking found out i am only getting fuel into piston no 1 and none into the other 3 (fuel distributor blocked my be)
 
After more checking found out i am only getting fuel into piston no 1 and none into the other 3 (fuel distributor blocked my be)

Probably.
What type of fuel injection does it have. If mechanical then it will be the needle valve is blocked due to standing.
Sometimes a tap with a soft mallet whilst pressing the diapragm works.

If you need to remove it fill it with diesel as that will ungum the works.
 
He meant fuel distributor. There is no timing it delivers constanty to all injectors.
 
Sorted the fuel problem all working as it should now.
Turned dizi 180degrees still wont start.
Timing is set correctly.
Can the crank shaft censor stop it starting.
 
Sorted the fuel problem all working as it should now.
Turned dizi 180degrees still wont start.
Timing is set correctly.
Can the crank shaft censor stop it starting.

If the sensor isnt working yes. or possibly the ignition unit it triggers? are you getting sparks?
I assume you mean you lifted the distributer body up to dis-engage the drive and turned the rotor arm thro 180 degrees and then replaced it yes? sorry if this stating the obvious.
 
Yeah i did lift the distributor and turned it 180degrees
and i am getting sparks, if im not getting the full voltage for the spark can this affect it as well.
 
If you spray some Bradex easi-start down the inlet it should fire for a brief period weak spark or not if everything is setup correctly. Not something I would advocate normally but in extreme non start situations might help. Sounds as if you have "hit the wall" as the marathon runners would say. I can offer advice on this forum but without being there its difficult. Maybe time for a "fresh pair of eyes" Sometimes they will see something thats staring you in the face but you just dont see it for looking. Otherwise take a step back and then work thro all the possibilities methodically. Don't assume anything -check it. Check as much as you can visually is everything moving as it should. It sounds trivial but sort of thing I mean is ---can you actually see the rotor arm rotate with the distributer cap off. things like that. One thing I would deffo change is the rotor arm and possibly the cap. They may look OK but any leakage to earth will drastically effect things.
 
Thanks for your help i will change the dizi cap and arm.
And i will get someone else to look at it, thanks again, i will keep you posted on what happens.
 
Yeah i did lift the distributor and turned it 180degrees
and i am getting sparks, if im not getting the full voltage for the spark can this affect it as well.

Yes it will.
Get a cheap flash tester they are a real boon for testing HT output.
 
I have just taken out the crankshaft sensor to find the sensor part in 2 pieces.
 
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