Cost to re seal a cdi injector

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Good to keep them for that purpose but I would not disturb any that are not leaking. No business in tempting fate.

Might be a good idea to use a softener if there is any trace of black death showing, especially on the bolt.
If you use oven cleaner remember that if left on it will commence to eat into the aluminium. Wash it off very well after.

Be very gentle and sympathetic when unscrewing the bolts.
Don't forget that there was something not exactly right done two years ago with at least one, so proceed with caution.

If you feel any tightening, reverse the ratchet and screw it back half a turn and then forward three quarters of a turn and back half a turn again.

Another tip is to do a leak off test on those injectors before removing them. If you do not have a kit you can easily make up two small containers and measure the amount of fuel. Would not be great to have them resealed and then realise that they are not performing as well as they should.
I think, from memory, that the Honda washers are 0.5mm thicker than the Mercedes ones.
 
Good to keep them for that purpose but I would not disturb any that are not leaking. No business in tempting fate.

Might be a good idea to use a softener if there is any trace of black death showing, especially on the bolt.
If you use oven cleaner remember that if left on it will commence to eat into the aluminium. Wash it off very well after.

Be very gentle and sympathetic when unscrewing the bolts.
Don't forget that there was something not exactly right done two years ago with at least one, so proceed with caution.

If you feel any tightening, reverse the ratchet and screw it back half a turn and then forward three quarters of a turn and back half a turn again.

Another tip is to do a leak off test on those injectors before removing them. If you do not have a kit you can easily make up two small containers and measure the amount of fuel. Would not be great to have them resealed and then realise that they are not performing as well as they should.
I think, from memory, that the Honda washers are 0.5mm thicker than the Mercedes ones.

Thanks for the great advice.

I only have one injector thats for sure leaking but no carbon deposits around it. Another one has little bit black death around where it meets the head which i cleaned off, basically none of the injectors was covered with the black mess

Hopefully the threads will be ok, i will make sure the threads are super clean.
I got an idea to use baby bottle teat brush which is like a fine steel rod with bristles perfect size to fit in the bolt hole to clean the threads
I was using pvc cleaning solvent and it does work well shifting the tar and it evaporates pretty quick.

Regards
 
As you guys said the honda injector copper seal is slightly thicker than genuine Mercedes ones, do you still go 7nm +90 +90 or it is enough one 90 degrees after the 7nm click?
 
I always give then the two 90's. and at times another 10 degrees according to how they feel. I leave some time between the first 7nm and the first 90 but not between the second 90 and the "sometimes" 10 extra that I apply as I find that the bolt tends to settle and lock slightly if you delay.

It is all down to feel. Don't grip the handle of the wrench and pull with your fingers instead of push(you will be amazed at how mild 7nm is.). keep the head of the wrench directly over the bolt.
If all things are equal; new bolt without flaws; new washer; undamaged threads and room at the bottom of the bolt hole, that bolt will not shear or pull the threads in the bolt hole.
 
Thanks all for the valuable advice.
I have not got a honda dealer around to get the copper washers from and seems like on ebay they are not that cheap.
Anyone knows any link where to get them cheap?
I guess i should buy an injector puller just in case .

When cleaning the side wall how to stop carbon falling into the cylinder? Should i stick smth in the hole like a straw with some masking tape around it?
OP..Have you actually watched the YouTube video made by Alex on Legitstreetcars ?? I think not . If you had watched it you would not be asking most of these questions. Pretty much everything you need to know before opening the bonnet is in that video. Step by Step.
 
OP..Have you actually watched the YouTube video made by Alex on Legitstreetcars ?? I think not . If you had watched it you would not be asking most of these questions. Pretty much everything you need to know before opening the bonnet is in that video. Step by Step.

I even linked it in post 14 :/
 
OP..Have you actually watched the YouTube video made by Alex on Legitstreetcars ?? I think not . If you had watched it you would not be asking most of these questions. Pretty much everything you need to know before opening the bonnet is in that video. Step by Step.
I guess it is not the worst of videos for a guy doing it for the first time, but....

He gives no advice about using the Honda washers. I believe that those are vital, especially as he advocates using a reamer....just for the sake of using it.

Stay away from those reamers unless absolutely necessary and if you use one without extreme care you will need a honda washer for the extra 0.5mm thickness.
He uses an air gun for the final loosening of the bolts. That is not advisable.

Don't know why he states that the cleaning brush should be used in a clockwise motion.
Must ask him where he got those powerful cotton buds.

He advises using the old bolts for holding in the loose injectors and appears to squeeze them well past 7nm without a torque wrench.

Never put old stretched bolts back in. Have a few spare new bolts if needed for this purpose.

In fact he does not mention the Torque nor the 90 degrees + 90 degrees method at all.

He then takes out an injector bolt while the car is running and he is leaning over it. What a ****.

There is over 400 lbs of compression there. Imagine what could happen if the injector blows out....not to mention the fuel spray when the injector pipe fractures.
His main purpose is to sell his on line manual with a 30% discount and the cleaning kit.

Correct me if I have missed anything as I tended to skip through some of the "movie"....and what happened to that rocker cover that he meticulously cleaned while he was waiting for the cleaning kit?
 
I guess it is not the worst of videos for a guy doing it for the first time, but....

He gives no advice about using the Honda washers. I believe that those are vital, especially as he advocates using a reamer....just for the sake of using it.

Stay away from those reamers unless absolutely necessary and if you use one without extreme care you will need a honda washer for the extra 0.5mm thickness.
He uses an air gun for the final loosening of the bolts. That is not advisable.

Don't know why he states that the cleaning brush should be used in a clockwise motion.
Must ask him where he got those powerful cotton buds.

He advises using the old bolts for holding in the loose injectors and appears to squeeze them well past 7nm without a torque wrench.

Never put old stretched bolts back in. Have a few spare new bolts if needed for this purpose.

In fact he does not mention the Torque nor the 90 degrees + 90 degrees method at all.

He then takes out an injector bolt while the car is running and he is leaning over it. What a ****.

There is over 400 lbs of compression there. Imagine what could happen if the injector blows out....not to mention the fuel spray when the injector pipe fractures.
His main purpose is to sell his on line manual with a 30% discount and the cleaning kit.

Correct me if I have missed anything as I tended to skip through some of the "movie"....and what happened to that rocker cover that he meticulously cleaned while he was waiting for the cleaning kit?

I am not keen on using reamers either, the idea is i want to polish the injector seat to a nice smooth finish with a bit of sand paper on a lapping stick end. With a reamer u end up with ridges and scoring of the metal and this might cause a leak in the future.

I am going for Honda washers and new genuine Mercedes bolts , no point cutting corners here
 
I need some ceramic grease for the injectors, MB stuff is very expensive, i know febi do their own for circa 15 quid on ebay, however i have seen few other ceramic based grease products which are mainly for brakes, will these work as they are cheaper?

Eurocarparts do Pagid ceratec , sounds like it is ceramic, any ideas?
 
I guess it is not the worst of videos for a guy doing it for the first time, but....

He gives no advice about using the Honda washers. I believe that those are vital, especially as he advocates using a reamer....just for the sake of using it.

Stay away from those reamers unless absolutely necessary and if you use one without extreme care you will need a honda washer for the extra 0.5mm thickness.
He uses an air gun for the final loosening of the bolts. That is not advisable.

Don't know why he states that the cleaning brush should be used in a clockwise motion.
Must ask him where he got those powerful cotton buds.

He advises using the old bolts for holding in the loose injectors and appears to squeeze them well past 7nm without a torque wrench.

Never put old stretched bolts back in. Have a few spare new bolts if needed for this purpose.

In fact he does not mention the Torque nor the 90 degrees + 90 degrees method at all.

He then takes out an injector bolt while the car is running and he is leaning over it. What a ****.

There is over 400 lbs of compression there. Imagine what could happen if the injector blows out....not to mention the fuel spray when the injector pipe fractures.
His main purpose is to sell his on line manual with a 30% discount and the cleaning kit.

Correct me if I have missed anything as I tended to skip through some of the "movie"....and what happened to that rocker cover that he meticulously cleaned while he was waiting for the cleaning kit?
The video gives an insight into what the job (could) entail to the uninitiated and is enough to either give a person the idea as to whether to get stuck in or run a mile. I don't for one minute think anyone with any sense would follow it (or any other such video)verbatim...would they ?
 
Ceramic grease is dear. You could chance copper grease.
You will read many posts about copper grease causing a galvanic corrosion thus causing minute pitting in the Aluminium.

Most have less than half the story. You need a liquid and a salt, for instance salty water, for such an electrochemical reaction to happen..

It is true to say that Aluminium is very susceptible to such an electrochemical reaction -galvanic-when it comes into contact with Copper, but it must be in the presence of an electrolyte such as salty water.
You are in a bad place initially if there is salty water seeping into your injector chambers.

I removed an injector a few months ago that I know was fitted six years ago where copper grease was used. It did not have any galvanic reaction in its time in there and came out very easily.

I have not used copper grease on an injector simply because I have a good supply of ceramic grease.
 
The video gives an insight into what the job (could) entail to the uninitiated and is enough to either give a person the idea as to whether to get stuck in or run a mile. I don't for one minute think anyone with any sense would follow it (or any other such video)verbatim...would they ?
I fear that they would, Pete:(.
 
Removed the first injector today.
All the cleaning done just seat needs polishing although it looks like the leak wasn't from the washer.
The injector face looks like erroded hence it wouldn't seal against the washerIMG20190110150748-864x1152.jpg IMG20190110150748-864x1152.jpg
 
where is the washer?
Goot that the injector came out ok
 
where is the washer?
Goot that the injector came out ok

Injector came out very very easy just a twist and pull.
The washer didn't look too bad too , the injector face was badly worn so no washer would ever seal that.

I was thinking to send it off to be refurbished however i found a brand new one on ebay for 70 quid so bought it.
 
Did somebody grind the outside edge of that seat at some time, or is that just a reflection? The washer will give you a great idea of where the leak was.
I put a light and a magnifying glass on a good injector that I have and I can see a slight burring on the edge where the Mercedes washer leaves a slight gap when compressed. The Honda washer does a better job as it compresses more.

The washer must have been doing a reasonable job as it was not spitting and the injector was not stuck.
Oven cleaner is great for cleaning the injectors.

You asked earlier about giving the Honda washers the full compression. You do need to do it as you want the tip of the injector to be at its original setting: the Honda washer being slightly easier to compress will compress more at the same torque.
 
Here is another pic of the defect on the injector.

I will go with tightening the bolts with honda washer using your method.

Hopefully the honda washer with new injector will be a long term solution , i think my old injector will need to be reconditioned and kept as spare


IMG20190110174147-1382x1843.jpg
 
Does your injector also have an electrical connector on it, of so take a note of the 12 or 16 digit number on the new 1 as you will need to get it recoded as it will effect the way the vehicle will idle
 

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