Cost to replace corroded brake lines W212?

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such01

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E350 CDI W212
It was noted some time ago that my brake lines showed slight signs of corrosion.
I'm having an A service @MB Colchester next week. I asked them to check the rear subframe as part of the visual health check. The car is also being MOT'd whilst there.
I "think" my rear subframe is ok according to an indy, but have a niggling feeling they may fail the MOT due to the brake lines. There have been no MOT advisories for this to date.
I will request that MB do not carry out the MOT if they see an obvious reason for failure during the VHC.
The question is - how much would it cost to replace the brake lines if done on it's own?

Thanks
 
The question is - how much would it cost to replace the brake lines if done on it's own?

Thanks
I’d have thought the price from MB would be based on job time from WIS x hourly labour rate plus parts/materials cost eg fluid?

If MB were replacing the subframe at their expense I’m not sure this would be automatically discounted, but if you were paying for both jobs yourself I understand the reduced labour time.

I guess a fair compromise in that case would be to split any potential savings, as you then both benefit from any work being performed that saves the other party time and hence cost.

But back to the original question, you’d need to ask MB for pricing but their hourly labour rate is generally quite high. The cost of brake line replacement will be mainly labour cost so it would be pragmatic to consider using a specialist for this work, the bill maybe approaching about half price of what MB would likely charge. Did you get a quote from your indie who looked at it recently? :)
 
If it's like my S204 (namely most of the line is hidden behind a plate thus not corroded) an option would be to cut the existing lines and only replace the corroded parts with cunifer. Apparently @alexanderfoti has done this a number of times.
 
If it's like my S204 (namely most of the line is hidden behind a plate thus not corroded) an option would be to cut the existing lines and only replace the corroded parts with cunifer. Apparently @alexanderfoti has done this a number of times.
Thanks - it was Alex who notified me of the corrosion some years ago. I used him for many years until moving to Essex in 2021. A bit too far now.
 
I had the rear brake lines replaced on my w212 E63 last may at a MB Specialist the total cost was £360 all in which consisted of 3 hours labour parts and a brake fluid change hope it helps 👍
 
I had the rear brake lines replaced on my w212 E63 last may at a MB Specialist the total cost was £360 all in which consisted of 3 hours labour parts and a brake fluid change hope it helps 👍
That sounds very reasonable. I may just get them done before they get worse. Let's see what the MB VHC shows. My indie had a look when he changed the front springs a few months back and said all was pretty solid underneath. Thanks
 
I’d have thought the price from MB would be based on job time from WIS x hourly labour rate plus parts/materials cost eg fluid?

If MB were replacing the subframe at their expense I’m not sure this would be automatically discounted, but if you were paying for both jobs yourself I understand the reduced labour time.

I guess a fair compromise in that case would be to split any potential savings, as you then both benefit from any work being performed that saves the other party time and hence cost.

But back to the original question, you’d need to ask MB for pricing but their hourly labour rate is generally quite high. The cost of brake line replacement will be mainly labour cost so it would be pragmatic to consider using a specialist for this work, the bill maybe approaching about half price of what MB would likely charge. Did you get a quote from your indie who looked at it recently? :)
Thanks - my indie didn't seem overly concerned about it so I didn't really question it. It was picked up by AlexFoti a few years back now.
I would definitely look at getting it done via my local indie when it needs doing.
 
Thanks - my indie didn't seem overly concerned about it so I didn't really question it. It was picked up by AlexFoti a few years back now.
I would definitely look at getting it done via my local indie when it needs doing.
I don’t know where you are on the coast buddy , but Alex Crow is an MB specialist out in sunny Stowmarket . I drive out to him for any work I can’t do myself ( I’m near Chelmsford )
 
When getting brake lines replaced cheapest may not be best. Almost all the cost is labour and you could just slam some new lines in route them the easy way and not worry too much about the shape and bends. They should work fine but will look a mess when ever anyone is under the car.

Alternatively someone who takes pride in their work could take twice as long but perfectly fit the lines along their original routes with the same bends as came from the factory.

Or still doing a decent job the right person could just replace the bad sections. MB workshop instructions allow up to 2 additional joins in the lines to accommodate this.

Don't use steel lines (as supplied by MB) - when tugging them into place they will get scraped and that will damage the coating. They will corrode again.

Do use Copper Nickel alloy - it's better and never corrodes.

The above points are all from experience: I've replaced lines on my BMW, C63 and last week a Mini.
 
I don’t know where you are on the coast buddy , but Alex Crow is an MB specialist out in sunny Stowmarket . I drive out to him for any work I can’t do myself ( I’m near Chelmsford )
I'm just outside Clacton on Sea. I do have a chap in Colchester whom I've been using since moving down here, the only reason I'm not using him this time is I wanted MB to check my subframe and this service is just an oil change so not too much money. I had intended on changing the oil myself as I had some already but MB Colchester said they are ok using my supplied parts.
 
When getting brake lines replaced cheapest may not be best. Almost all the cost is labour and you could just slam some new lines in route them the easy way and not worry too much about the shape and bends. They should work fine but will look a mess when ever anyone is under the car.

Alternatively someone who takes pride in their work could take twice as long but perfectly fit the lines along their original routes with the same bends as came from the factory.

Or still doing a decent job the right person could just replace the bad sections. MB workshop instructions allow up to 2 additional joins in the lines to accommodate this.

Don't use steel lines (as supplied by MB) - when tugging them into place they will get scraped and that will damage the coating. They will corrode again.

Do use Copper Nickel alloy - it's better and never corrodes.

The above points are all from experience: I've replaced lines on my BMW, C63 and last week a Mini.
I'll make sure I use someone who is familiar with doing this. Thanks
 
I think MB will insist on using MB OEM parts which would mean having solid pre formed lines fitted which will take way longer (££) than an independent garage forming/bending their own from a roll of suitable Cupro Nikle/Cunifer pipe.
 
Well, just got back from my local MB dealer and as I feared the rear brake lines are corroded and it's an MOT failure, They have not done the MOT and have quoted £1123 to fix before MOT.
What's of more concern is they spotted an oil leak coming from the front of the engine somewhere with some on the aux belt, but you can really see it fresh underneath the car. The technician allowed me to come into the workshop whilst he pointed this out - he said it will probably take at least 90mins to find the leak at a cost of £261. My oil level is ok and has been since the last oil change in Nov last year.
They have not done the A service
My MOT is due on 25th March so this needs to be done asap - MB can do on 24th March using copper pipes
On a positive note, my rear subframe is good.

I have booked the car in with my indy to do the brake lines tmrw as they had a cancellation and whilst there he will investigate the oil leak.
 
I assume you don't mean copper....but copper alloy like Kunifer. Pure copper should never be used except in an emergency. It goes hard over time and then fractures with the slightest movement.
 
Well, just got back from my local MB dealer and as I feared the rear brake lines are corroded and it's an MOT failure, They have not done the MOT and have quoted £1123 to fix before MOT.
What's of more concern is they spotted an oil leak coming from the front of the engine somewhere with some on the aux belt, but you can really see it fresh underneath the car. The technician allowed me to come into the workshop whilst he pointed this out - he said it will probably take at least 90mins to find the leak at a cost of £261. My oil level is ok and has been since the last oil change in Nov last year.
They have not done the A service
My MOT is due on 25th March so this needs to be done asap - MB can do on 24th March using copper pipes
On a positive note, my rear subframe is good.

I have booked the car in with my indy to do the brake lines tmrw as they had a cancellation and whilst there he will investigate the oil leak.
Jesus buddy , sounds like time to get the car booked in somewhere else for repairs to the lines .
As far as the oil leak , clean it up yourself first , may have been from the filter housing or spilt oil from filling up ?
 
Jesus buddy , sounds like time to get the car booked in somewhere else for repairs to the lines .
As far as the oil leak , clean it up yourself first , may have been from the filter housing or spilt oil from filling up ?
Yes booked elsewhere - quoted costs between £3-500 depending on how much line is replaced. Re the oil leak the filter housing is dry and I managed to get all the oil in the engine last time:)
 
I have the VHC video from MB but with no sound


Not sure if this will work but it shows the oil leak at the beginning from the top of engine but also underneath at 5.22 onwards
 
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I assume you don't mean copper....but copper alloy like Kunifer. Pure copper should never be used except in an emergency. It goes hard over time and then fractures with the slightest movement.
MB said they use copper - it was the service receptionist so maybe not - my indie uses Kunifer
 
Recently had mine done as it failed on the MOT. I had all brake lines replaced and 2 brake hoses and cost around £400
 
Recently had mine done as it failed on the MOT. I had all brake lines replaced and 2 brake hoses and cost around £400
That sounds very reasonable - were the pipes replaced in the same configuration ie under the rear subframe or worked around?
 

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