Dead Battery (Revival) on 2004 CLK 320

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New Member
May 27, 2023
CLK 320
Hello forum, I hope someone can help me.

I am trying to revive a 2004 CLK 320 Petrol that has been sitting dormant for about a year. I had a new battery put in about 4 years ago and drove it once a week but sadly have neglected it since last year.
The Yuasa 9000 battery had become depleted and presumed dead I have tried to revive it with an AA Intelligent charger in recovery mode. To my surprise the charger had recovered the battery to full in a few days.
I connected the battery back onto the car and following a few crazy lights blinking and the dashboard clock going haywire, I was able to start the car and reset the windows etc.

However, after about 5 minutes idling the car just cut out. I tried to start the car again but once I turn the key, there is a continuous sound of the car trying to start (for about 4-5 secs) but not actually turning over and cutting out again.
Voltage of the battery was around 12.6V and when it started for the first time, Voltage was 13.6V when the engine was running

Does it look that the battery is still bad, despite the it being 'recovered' on charge?
I don't mind getting new battery and then getting the car back on the road with a full service and MOT but wanted to know if anyone can confirm that it is likely to be a dud battery and nothing else more sinister.

Thanks in anticipation
Best way to test the battery is to measure the terminal voltage under load.
What is the voltage while it is attempting to turn over?
It sounds like you have a dead cell. You can pop the caps off the top to check if you've lost water. If you have, you can add distilled water. If the water is at the correct level, put the cap back on and take it to the nearest auto store so that you can turn it in a a core and buy a new battery.
A faulty cell will ‘boil’ under load. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The battery seems fine, but check the voltage under load to be sure.

How much fuel is in the tank? I ask because if the fuel level is low, and the tank breather hasn't been quite perfectly sealed and the volatiles in the fuel needed for cold starting have partially evaporated, that could give you one good start (using fuel in the lines not exposed to atmosphere), run for a little, then a starting problem as the fuel in the tank comes through. If there's not much fuel in the tank, and the volatiles in the fuel are low, then adding a decent quantity of new fuel might solve the problem. Even if that does not solve the problem, you then know your fuel is good.

However, if the car already ran fine for more than half a minute after the first start, that suggests the fuel quality at least is OK.
Thank you all for the responses!
I thought it might be the fuel as well as the fuel light was on when I first started it yesterday and thinking about it, it was prob running on fumes yesterday before it cut.
So today, I put 4 and half of super unleaded in it via a jerry can. It started up and so I began to slowly drive forwards and backwards on the drive to check the brakes etc. I probably went back and forth only 2 metres before it cut out again and not start up again. I had to take the shift lock off manually to put the car in neutral so that I could push the car back into its original spot.

Do you think its worth putting another 4 half litres of petrol in the car tomorrow and attempt to start it again?

Worth trying, even if it doesn't do the trick.
Hi all, so this morning I added a further 4 and half litres of super unleaded. Before starting the car, battery was reading 12.54V. The car started up so I checked the battery and it was showing 14.4v. Thinking the issue was the lack of fuel, I began cleaning some debris off the car but after around 5 minutes of the idling, the car suddenly stalled / cut out and won't start again, as like yesterday.
Dash showed red battery sign and to take car to workshop. Consequently, yellow engine light has come on.
Does this mean the issue is related to be the battery then, I can get one for £130 fitted at home plus reset.
FYI, when last battery was replaced 4 years ago, I don't think the car was reset / coded to battery, would this have a bearing on this issue?



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12.54v off, (about 90% charged) then 14v running sounds ok, and it runs but then shuts down so it could be a fuel starvation issue.
Fuel filter blocked.
Fuel pump weak.
Fuel tank ventilation - next time leave fuel cap off see if it runs.

Ignition circuit breaking down as it heats up (heat soak affecting something)

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