Baron_Samedi
MB Enthusiast
After months of prevaricating because I was worrying about where to get the job done, or whether I would trash the upper switch block, I have gotten off my @rse and fitted an ipod interface to my W209 CLK (55 Reg Year).
Following the instructions on mercupgrades.com made things much easier, but I have a few observations.
1. Get lucky and when prising the left hand side of the switch block and the whole lot will release. Be unlucky and you need a pulling tool of some sort to release the right hand side.
Guess what - I got lucky (Phew!)
2. Taking off the gear knob is okay, but you might need a bit of force to release it from the shaft... it doesn't slide off smoothly.
3. Releasing the gear selector surround is easy, as is removing the "ashtray". I say ashtray as MB don't intend you to use it as such... putting a no smoking legend in the rubbery mat thing.
4. Now, this is where it gets interesting. You need to take out the two screws that hold in the air con controls, the four screws for the Audio20 (in my case) and the two screws holding on the glove compartment kick panel.
Mercupgrades state this is a T25 Torx.... on a 2005 W209 this is incorrect. I needed a T20 so be wary if you are buying tools to do the job!
5. Take out the aircon controls and then remove the HU. Re-assigning the optical fibres is easy but go careful not to make the ends dirty.
6. Take off the passenger end side panel of required. On my car all I needed to do was flap it back to gain access to the glovebox knockout for the interface lead to the ipod to pass through.
7. Unfasten the two screws for the kick panel to allow the small end of the cable from the ipod interface to pass to the left hand side of the car.
8. Take the ipod cable and pass it through the knock out. My cable had the grommet half way along the lead (not about 20cm from the ipod connector as seen in other pictures.
I tried to move it, but the cable has a locating ridge in it that makes it more difficult to move the grommet. So I left it for fear of wrecking the cable through a brute force attempt to move it.
9. Attach a "velco pad" to the left hand wall of the car in the area opened by removing the kick panel.
10. Run the free end of the ipod lead from the grommet through the gap exposed by releasing the cover at the passenger end of the dash.
Take the black ipod interface box, attach a velcro pad and connect the "network" looking connector to the top end.
11. Release the HU lever and detach the big connector.
12. Release the two orange fibre connectors from this connector and attach them to the free connector that will now connect to your HU.
13. Attach the existing connector to the shell at the end of the loom in your kit.
14. Now, feed the small end (the one that attaches to the ipod interface box and route it to the passenger end of the dash via the hole exposed between the console and the underdash area.
15. Attach the connector body (one from the kit, that now has the fibre optic cables attached to the HU. Remember this connector is new and the big lever needs to be drawn towards the cables to allow it to mate with the HU.
16. Connect and latch the small (keyed) connector to the ipod interface box.
17. Tidy all the cables (route the cable from the HU behind the aircon duct.
18. Switch on and test.
19. Reassemble HU etc back into console, remembering that the new interface leads chunky connectors need to be eased down behind the aircon controls while not stretching or trapping the fibre optic leads.
20. When refitting the upper switch block remember that the lead attaches to the middle connector, obvious when you know it too has a key but hey ho, I panicked
for a moment!
21. velcro the ipod interface box to the side wall behind the glovebox. It's easy because there is a convenient bulge to mount the unit securely.
22. Fasten up the screws for the kick panel (take it easy because the aircon duct is a pig to re-insert.
23. Tidy up.
24. Go for a road test. (Mandatory in my opinion) :bannana:
Reward yourself for your hour or so's work by writing it up on here before you forget the tricky bits!
PS. Remember that if your car doesn't have phone pre-wiring you will need to get a STAR specialist to do a bit of coding.
The kit cost me £171 off ebay. The TORX T20 tool cost me £4.99 from Halfords.
BARGAIN!
Following the instructions on mercupgrades.com made things much easier, but I have a few observations.
1. Get lucky and when prising the left hand side of the switch block and the whole lot will release. Be unlucky and you need a pulling tool of some sort to release the right hand side.
Guess what - I got lucky (Phew!)
2. Taking off the gear knob is okay, but you might need a bit of force to release it from the shaft... it doesn't slide off smoothly.
3. Releasing the gear selector surround is easy, as is removing the "ashtray". I say ashtray as MB don't intend you to use it as such... putting a no smoking legend in the rubbery mat thing.
4. Now, this is where it gets interesting. You need to take out the two screws that hold in the air con controls, the four screws for the Audio20 (in my case) and the two screws holding on the glove compartment kick panel.
Mercupgrades state this is a T25 Torx.... on a 2005 W209 this is incorrect. I needed a T20 so be wary if you are buying tools to do the job!
5. Take out the aircon controls and then remove the HU. Re-assigning the optical fibres is easy but go careful not to make the ends dirty.
6. Take off the passenger end side panel of required. On my car all I needed to do was flap it back to gain access to the glovebox knockout for the interface lead to the ipod to pass through.
7. Unfasten the two screws for the kick panel to allow the small end of the cable from the ipod interface to pass to the left hand side of the car.
8. Take the ipod cable and pass it through the knock out. My cable had the grommet half way along the lead (not about 20cm from the ipod connector as seen in other pictures.
I tried to move it, but the cable has a locating ridge in it that makes it more difficult to move the grommet. So I left it for fear of wrecking the cable through a brute force attempt to move it.
9. Attach a "velco pad" to the left hand wall of the car in the area opened by removing the kick panel.
10. Run the free end of the ipod lead from the grommet through the gap exposed by releasing the cover at the passenger end of the dash.
Take the black ipod interface box, attach a velcro pad and connect the "network" looking connector to the top end.
11. Release the HU lever and detach the big connector.
12. Release the two orange fibre connectors from this connector and attach them to the free connector that will now connect to your HU.
13. Attach the existing connector to the shell at the end of the loom in your kit.
14. Now, feed the small end (the one that attaches to the ipod interface box and route it to the passenger end of the dash via the hole exposed between the console and the underdash area.
15. Attach the connector body (one from the kit, that now has the fibre optic cables attached to the HU. Remember this connector is new and the big lever needs to be drawn towards the cables to allow it to mate with the HU.
16. Connect and latch the small (keyed) connector to the ipod interface box.
17. Tidy all the cables (route the cable from the HU behind the aircon duct.
18. Switch on and test.
19. Reassemble HU etc back into console, remembering that the new interface leads chunky connectors need to be eased down behind the aircon controls while not stretching or trapping the fibre optic leads.
20. When refitting the upper switch block remember that the lead attaches to the middle connector, obvious when you know it too has a key but hey ho, I panicked
for a moment!21. velcro the ipod interface box to the side wall behind the glovebox. It's easy because there is a convenient bulge to mount the unit securely.
22. Fasten up the screws for the kick panel (take it easy because the aircon duct is a pig to re-insert.
23. Tidy up.
24. Go for a road test. (Mandatory in my opinion) :bannana:
Reward yourself for your hour or so's work by writing it up on here before you forget the tricky bits!
PS. Remember that if your car doesn't have phone pre-wiring you will need to get a STAR specialist to do a bit of coding.
The kit cost me £171 off ebay. The TORX T20 tool cost me £4.99 from Halfords.
BARGAIN!
