DIY S211 rear shock absorber replacement

[PhilG]

Did 300 miles up to SW Scotland in my new-to-me S211 320 CDI Sport. All was pretty healthy apart from the ride on bad surfaces. The car is on 155k miles so no surprise the suspension is overall tired. I am pretty sure it needs new rear shocks.

I think I've found the correct shocks on eBay. From my research it seems the shocks are the same for sport/non-sport anyway. Can anyone confirm?

Pelicanparts has a how-to video on how to change the shocks yourself, but this is for a saloon with the conventional rear springs, not the air springs of the estate. Has anyone done this? Is it just the same case of jacking up the control arm?

 

[PhilG]

Nope I was wrong, Sport chassis uses SACHS 312 382, and normal chassis is 312 383.

 

[E55BOF]

Did 300 miles up to SW Scotland in my new-to-me S211 320 CDI Sport. All was pretty healthy apart from the ride on bad surfaces. The car is on 155k miles so no surprise the suspension is overall tired. I am pretty sure it needs new rear shocks.

I think I've found the correct shocks on eBay. From my research it seems the shocks are the same for sport/non-sport anyway. Can anyone confirm?

Pelicanparts has a how-to video on how to change the shocks yourself, but this is for a saloon with the conventional rear springs, not the air springs of the estate. Has anyone done this? Is it just the same case of jacking up the control arm?

Same procedure whatever the springing medium.

You will have to release and fold back the forward section of the wheel arch liner to get at the electrical connection for the damper. It will be much easier to raise the corner of the car and remove the wheel, then put an axle stand or other safe support under the sill jacking point, because if it's anything like my '03 you will need to drop the control arm right down to remove the damper, then jack it right up again to locate the upper damper mounting in the body.

Before you start releasing the upper mounting, unless you either have transport available (to fetch a new lower bolt and nut) make sure the lower mounting bolt turns freely in the control arm; if not, it may be seized into the metal central bush in the bottom eye of the damper, which will be a whole new world of pain to sort out. I bought a new bolt and nut just in case, but in the event didn't actually need them, though I fitted them anyway.

My bolt was free, but the the nut was rusted to the bolt; a bit of angle grinding on the projecting end of the bolt, and the heat and vibration freed the nut off easily.

Have fun faffing about getting the load area side trim out...