E210 '98 window fault

[colin.dillon]

Hi everyone

Was wondering if anyone could shed some light on my window problem - every now and again the driver's window doesn't work. Over the month by trial & error I've found that if I disconnect the battery, operate all the window switches, reconnect the battery everything works fine 'till next time. If I just disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes & then reconnect then sometimes no windows work, or just the back don't or any combination you can think of! My feeling is that operating the switches must drain some residual current somewhere which then resets something! I assume there's an electronic control module somewhere? & this needs replacing. Any ideas on where to look or any other pointers?

Thanks in advance

Col

 

[Birdman]

Maybe the electric window's motor is struggling and you need to free up whatever is causing it to stick.

Just a thought - see current post: "e class electric window (w210)" http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=28589

 

[Birdman]

Or look at this thread - don't know if it applies but worth checking out.

http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=28591

 

[colin.dillon]

Thanks for info Birdman but the window isn't tight to move. The problem shows itself when I go to open the window so any tightness would have to be severe. When the window's working it goes up & down smoothly with no struggling at all. Think I'll try & get second hand motor & give that a go!

Col

 

[Dieselman]

The windows are controlled by control module in the engine bay. This works over the CAN system from the switches.

 

[wongl]

Hi everyone
Was wondering if anyone could shed some light on my window problem - every now and again the driver's window doesn't work. Col

The intermittent operations of only one window is key here.

I experienced a similar sympton on the rear offside window on my previous car, a 190E. Dealer wanted a new motor and assembly (forgotten how much now). Upon investigation I found that the electric window was regulated by thermal-cutout switch which was corroded due to water ingress behind the door card. Obvisouly someone had done some work there previously and had punchured the protective film without making it good.

To cut a long story short, I found that Maplin sold some thermal cutout switches which were a little smaller and so would fit into the notch beside the electric motor where the original switch lived. Only problem was that I couldn't get a ampere rating from the original switch so I bought one of each from Maplin (from 0.25A to 7.0A) and fitted the lowest rated one. Then I swapped the switch by trial and error until I got one that allowed the window to wind all the way up without cutting out. I found that the 2.25A thermal switch gave a similar performance to the other windows in the car by cutting out the motor around 5 secs after the window had reached its closed position. It took about 7 secs to reset which was about 2 secs longer than the other windows fitted with the original switch.

I could have by-passed the thermal cutout switch, but as far as I can tell the thermal cutout switch is there to protect the motor burning out should the user continue to hold the window switch down or up once the window has reached it opened or closed position. The current passing through the switch will casue a bi-metal strip (like those in your central heating thermal stat) to break open the circuit, and once cooled off the bi-metal strip will return to it closed open and the circuit is restored.

 

[colin.dillon]

Thanks for replies Dieselman & Wongl.

I don't think it's the fuse as it would come back on by itself or if the fuse was faulty disconnecting the battery would make no difference.

I'm going to try another control module as indicated by dieselman.

Now a question for dieselman - the fault is on my '98 E class estate & I was wondering whether if it would be ok to swap it with the one on my 2001 E220 Cdi?

Thanks in advance

Col

 

[Dieselman]

Thanks for replies Dieselman & Wongl.

I don't think it's the fuse as it would come back on by itself or if the fuse was faulty disconnecting the battery would make no difference.

I'm going to try another control module as indicated by dieselman.

Now a question for dieselman - the fault is on my '98 E class estate & I was wondering whether if it would be ok to swap it with the one on my 2001 E220 Cdi?

Thanks in advance

Col

Don't know. Maybe Jay could check the part numbers.