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E32o problem

Mk2 Golf IHI

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May 27, 2007
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11
O.K, first off I dont own a merc, this post is on behalf of my dad. He has a e320 merc, just come back from a 150 mile trip and 1 mile from home the dash displays bas, abs esp fault all in one go!!! We pulled up at our house, turned the ignition off, then tryed to start the car and nothing, totaly dead. Checked battery, getting 12.3volts, tryed using the spare key in case it was at fault, dont know what else to try??

Any one got any ideas, as my Dad needs his car for work on tuesday, thanks, Joe
 
Initially I'd have gone for the brake light switch but coupled with the starting problem could be more. Check the starter inhibitor by moving the gear selector, then go for bad battery connection or ignition switch.
 
Initially I'd have gone for the brake light switch but coupled with the starting problem could be more. Check the starter inhibitor by moving the gear selector, then go for bad battery connection or ignition switch.


The battery aint been removed, so I doubt its that. How does the brake light switch effect the esp, bas and abs???? The car has no faults starting within all 6 years of having the car, the fact that all these faults came up, then it wont start means it isnt a co-incident, it must be connected. Does the ecu have a limp mode there so many faults come up, then the car wont start?????

Yer, the lights come up on the dash, just wont turnover, almost like a starter-motor sticking, again its to much co-incidence that all this has happened at the same time!!!
 
Probably the ignition switch then or CAN but my money says switch.

the brake light switch will bring on ABS/ESP/BAS as the return side of the switch has a check back circuit so if that goes faulty it shuts down all safety functions connected to the brakes.

Limp home isn't triggered after xx many fults, one fault of the right type will bring it on.
 
so dieselman, have you any ideas why the switch has gone the same time as the igition switch????
 
My money is on the battery. 12.3 volts after a 150 mile trip is low. Should be in the order of 12.65 volts on a fully charged battery measured with a DVM. Possible the alternator isnt charging and that the 150 mile trip has depleted the battery charge. Modern vehicle systems are very sensitive to battery voltage. Try charging the battery overnight to see if its holding charge. If it is, the car should be OK first thing, and then go off as the battery is drained again. A good vehicle electrician should be able to test the alternator. Could be lots of other things of course but these tests are simple to carry out.
 
Cant see how the voltage going from 12.6 to 12.3 stop the engine from turning over, if it was low like 10v, it even says that 10v will bring the abs lights on the dash in the manual. It drove great untill the lights come on in the dash display, then it would not start again. Ignition switch and pedal switch seems to be more likely to be at cause, just cant figure out how both go at the same time (within two mins). Its like if no power is getting to starter motor anymore???? I think the electrics are ok, im thinking more fault withecu or somthing???/
 
I agree with grober (I had the same symptoms on my 300TE and it turned out to be the plug/socket on the back of the alternator). I cleaned the plug and socket, charged battery and all was well again.
 
Thanks, for all the help, first time ive been on this forum and would recomend all merc owners to use it, top forum guys. Im on a forum called edition 38 will give a shout out on there about this forum!!!!

Ive told my dad to get a mk2 golf, that way I can fix it, he didnt see the funny side of it!!!!
 
I agree with grober (I had the same symptoms on my 300TE and it turned out to be the plug/socket on the back of the alternator). I cleaned the plug and socket, charged battery and all was well again.


But the battery has got 12.3 volts, so the alterator must be doing its job. Even if the alterator is playing up, or dead, it still should crank from the battery, or try to turn over. The fact that its got 12.3, rather then 12.65 volts, I cant see how that would kill the engine. The rac bloke said its a good battery, I hope its the battery as this looks like its going to be a costly one.

Keep them coming in folks:)
 
what version of E320 is it, W210 or W211.
W211 have software control for the electrical systems and are VERY sensitive to battery voltage.

What if anything happens when the key is turned?

Have you checked the gearbox inhibitor yet?

Does the battery voltage drop when the key is turned and is there any power at the starter end of the battery lead.

Still sounds like CAN, control circuit or ignition switch. On these cars ther is no direct connection from the ignition to the startr solenoid, a signal is sent over the CAN tot the engien ECU which then performs the pre-determined start sequence. This is why it continues to crank after the key is released. This only applies to post 1997 cars.
 
Looking at all this, if the voltage dropped below 11,75 when driving that would put the ABS lamp on, this runs from the engine,not the battery. When he started off the battery was not low otherwise the ABS lamp would have kicked in at the start.

We can forget the EIS ign switch as it turns, if there was a failure here, it would not turn.

If it is a 211 then there are issues on this and the alternator and other things are changed.

So simple to turn the headlamps on, if they go out when you try and start then the battery is too low. Or put a voltmeter on the battery and turn the key to start.

If you must measure the battery do turn the headlamps on otherwise it is meaningless

How did the battery get low when driving, on a 210 if the alternator failed just a faint glow depending on what semiconductor went down.
On a 211 it would have turned off the consumers.

This must be just an alternator failure but it does help if you know what car it is
 
But the battery has got 12.3 volts, so the alterator must be doing its job. Even if the alterator is playing up, or dead, it still should crank from the battery, or try to turn over. The fact that its got 12.3, rather then 12.65 volts, I cant see how that would kill the engine. The rac bloke said its a good battery, I hope its the battery as this looks like its going to be a costly one.

Keep them coming in folks:)

Testing battery voltage on its own isnt very helpful since even a very depleted battery can summon up enough voltage to drive a Digital Voltmeter since its drawing virtually no current. :rolleyes: Battery voltage when measured VERY accurately can indicate the battery state of charge the difference between 12.63 and 12.3 can mean a battery that is fully charged and one with roughly less than 30% capacity though this reading is very dependent on electrolyte temperature. :( Television and Dieselman are both suggesting you put an electrical load ( current drain) on the battery :devil: --this is easily achieved by switching on the lights and is a mere fraction of the load experienced by operating the starter:eek: :eek: :eek: If the battery voltage drops then this indicates the battery state of charge. This may have dropped below a level acceptable to the vehicles electronic systems and is the cause of your problems.:o
 
O.K, guys cheers for the help, I dont know if its a w210 or w211?? All I know is thats is an e320 aventgaurd,2001, turbo diesel, and its green!!! Will do all the checks like everyone has said, ill post back up with my findings, thanks again.
 
Just thought, If your saying the voltage is too low, the RAC man attatched a power pack to the battery, would not that add the extra power to the cars battery?????
 
Just thought, If your saying the voltage is too low, the RAC man attatched a power pack to the battery, would not that add the extra power to the cars battery?????

Thanks for mentioning that.:crazy: Did the car turn over on the starter when he did that. What was the state of the warning lights on the dash. :confused: If it didnt then I would be looking at the engine and battery earthing straps among other things.
 

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