grober
MB Master
Came across some useful discussions on the replacement of ignition output transistors for engine ECU's which I posted on another forum. Might be of help to some folks on here/
There's a detailed discussion here BimmerNut.com Forums
It's a bit mixed but summarising what is said
the transistor you're looking for is an NPN Darlington with (IIRC) 20A Icmax, and something like 100-200V Vcemax
Pay attention to the characteristic "diode forward voltage" - this is the voltage that has to be overcome in order to turn transistor on. The value of 2.5V listed for these transistors is around the point at which logical "0" turns into "1" for integrated circuits. This is what we have here - a chip controls these transistors sending out logical "1" in sequential manner. Values below this voltage - say common .7 for ordinary transistors is no good, since it can be overcome by logical "0" which is not desirable.
The transistor suggested by Dieselman the BU931 would appear to fit the bill. Available here. STMICROELECTRONICS|BU931-T|DARLINGTON TRANSISTOR, TO-220 | Farnell United Kingdom
If I remember correctly the transistors are glued to their heat sink and that page also lists a suitable adhesive
the transistor spec sheet is here
http://www.st.com/stonline/products/literature/ds/1004.pdf
note the transistor is available in alternative packages but you probably need the TO-247 one
I have not tried these myself so cannot guarantee suitability or that they won't damage the rest of the ECU. So read the thread and AT YOUR OWN RISK-----------------!!!!
p.s. Don't know if this "technology" would apply to 90's cars rather than the most up to date models or not but given they are often just switching to ground ???
So if you have an old ECU with knackered output transistors and you fancy your chances with a soldering iron--------???????????
There's a detailed discussion here BimmerNut.com Forums
It's a bit mixed but summarising what is said
the transistor you're looking for is an NPN Darlington with (IIRC) 20A Icmax, and something like 100-200V Vcemax
Pay attention to the characteristic "diode forward voltage" - this is the voltage that has to be overcome in order to turn transistor on. The value of 2.5V listed for these transistors is around the point at which logical "0" turns into "1" for integrated circuits. This is what we have here - a chip controls these transistors sending out logical "1" in sequential manner. Values below this voltage - say common .7 for ordinary transistors is no good, since it can be overcome by logical "0" which is not desirable.
The transistor suggested by Dieselman the BU931 would appear to fit the bill. Available here. STMICROELECTRONICS|BU931-T|DARLINGTON TRANSISTOR, TO-220 | Farnell United Kingdom
If I remember correctly the transistors are glued to their heat sink and that page also lists a suitable adhesive
the transistor spec sheet is here
http://www.st.com/stonline/products/literature/ds/1004.pdf
note the transistor is available in alternative packages but you probably need the TO-247 one
I have not tried these myself so cannot guarantee suitability or that they won't damage the rest of the ECU. So read the thread and AT YOUR OWN RISK-----------------!!!!
p.s. Don't know if this "technology" would apply to 90's cars rather than the most up to date models or not but given they are often just switching to ground ???
So if you have an old ECU with knackered output transistors and you fancy your chances with a soldering iron--------???????????
Last edited: