W1ghty
MB Enthusiast
If you already have the Eicher pads , just fit them and see . I bet for us normal drivers you won’t notice any difference
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Ceramic...
Anything is just super dusty and bad for the environment .
All these dog shite pads will be a thing of the past with future legislation .
Yes but it's got to be the right form of ceramic !
Plus much more crap that is present in oe pads .
I used these on the rear of W205 cab, from Euro car parts, found them to be good, no noise or excessive pad brake, cheap pads did the job.Hi, I purchased EICHER pads for the front and TRW pads for rears as that's all that was avail at the time, so anyone had these on front of their E class W213 / S213. I got these as was told pads needed replacing by the usual fast fit centre chancers but they are still fine after a 2nd opinion and only needed a new pad sensor £6, so still have the new pads and will fit them when need arises along with new disks, as I will be keeping this car for a good few yrs now, as it does all I need well inc towing etc.
Anyone used Eicher (eurocarparts) and what disks would you suggest ? Stick with plain vented or go for drilled etc ?
My car has TRW calipers front(push in) and rear(wind in piston)
Tia.
Did you grease the ears and or rear of shim where piston pushes as well as piston front lip or just out and straight in ?I used these on the rear of W205 cab, from Euro car parts, found them to be good, no noise or excessive pad brake, cheap pads did the job.
Not sure where you are getting this from.... have a search on Google for brake dust pollution.
Dust from ceramic pads doesn't settle on the wheels, but apart from that I could not find any reference to suggest that ceramic pads are made from compounds more friendly to the environment than other types of pads.
I always put copper grease on the back of pads, the edges, shims and spring/clips, I might be a bit ocd but never have squealing brakes.Did you grease the ears and or rear of shim where piston pushes as well as piston front lip or just out and straight in ?
Particle Vs fibre ceramic , copper also a big environmental player + lots more .
Did I say it settles just on the wheels MJ ?
It all comes back to road pollution and what the gubberment isn't telling you about , and that is why it's all about £££ .
I always put copper grease on the back of pads, the edges, shims and spring/clips, I might be a bit ocd but never have squealing brakes.
greased, had to put rear calipers into service mode from dashDid you grease the ears and or rear of shim where piston pushes as well as piston front lip or just out and straight in ?
I bought and used Juratek on the kuga , I've got a set of fronts for the e350 to fit , think I paid around £25 . Have been exceptionally good so far, 1 year on. Ill not suffer the cost of dealer pads either . Unless I'm driving around the nerburgring ( spelling ).If you already have the Eicher pads , just fit them and see . I bet for us normal drivers you won’t notice any difference
That was a long read, deleted member appeared quite knowledgeable, but also sounds like a scammer.Have a read of the conversation in the link I posted in #2....................
When I had my motorbikes I always made sure I had the best tyres and brakes on it regardless of cost due to only 2 wheels. Best tyre should always be on front, as rear sliding can be controlled front can't. Cars are different. Do most people ask what brand pads disks are to be fitted to their car when in the likes of Krap Fit etc and on the spot have to have them done mid MOT etc ? No they just get it done mainly and K F and others just use the same stuff we can buy ourselves cheap.I learned the hard way about using non-oe pads. On my BMW motorcycle a few years ago I fitted cheaper pads (I believe the genuine items were £120!) The problem was that non-oe pads were known to eat the discs - which were also horrendously expensive.
So, sticking to oe was cheaper in the long run and they also worked much better. So now I’m very careful about what cars i put cheap or non-oe pads and discs on.
I also use euro car parts occasionally. a word of warning from my local garage. apparently they often sell cheap components badged as something more expensive. I bought some callipers for my wife’s Jeep and they leaked after 2 years and 5k miles. I am more selective now about what I buy from them.
I'm a bit ocd and take brakes apart and clean every 5-6 months, although I use other products like red brake grease and spray chain grease for motorcycles which I love.
No matter how well you know your car there's the dreaded MOT which = a necessary Evil e.g chance of being ripped off.I'm not quite so OCD and I don't pull them apart that often but I do maintain and lubricate my brake calipers when they need it. On my Motorcycle I can spin the front wheel by hand and it just keeps going with zero brake drag. The only way that can be achieved is by lubricating the caliper pistons so that the hysteresis in the piston seals is able to do what it's designed to do and pull the pads fractionally back off the discs.
Just did a pre-mot inspection on the car and there was a fair amount of brake drag on the front wheels. Single piston sliding calipers are horrid things and it's no wonder they don't work as well as dual piston calipers with only one seal to do the work. They got some exercise and lubrication for a significant improvement.
After all that the car failed it's mot on a broken front spring which I'd looked at but not spotted. The break was right at the bottom. For what it's worth I only had the one spring changed and the measured ride height is spot on the same both sides.
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