Engine mounts

[Parrot of Doom]

I am about to order 2 new engine mounts for my E300TD. The belt tensioning device has yet again decided to pee its contents over the front of the engine (its the shocker that keeps going).

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=157401

I have the exact same symptoms as that fella. Spring broke a few months ago which I replaced, and the engine has eaten 3 shockers. Having never seen a 100% perfect belt tensioner in operation, I can only assume that the level of vibration seen on mine is anomolous, and needs attention.

The steering wheel on mine vibrates slightly, but not a lot. The car shakes very slightly when the engine is killed, but nothing major. At 176,000 miles I reckon its good preventative maintainance anyway.

Anyhow, has anybody done this job before? The advice I have currently is to remove the transmission pan, jack the engine 1/2 an inch or so on a big block of wood, whip out the old mounts with elbow grease and grunting (and bent/filed tools), and put the new ones in.

Does anybody have a 606 TD engine with a belt tensioner that doesn't vibrate like mine does? I'd thought it was normal, but apparently not.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Argh. £60 each + VAT Oh well. Done the deed now.

 

[Ian B Walker]

No need to remove the transmission pan. Easy job to do. Jack under the sump (on wood to spread the load after undoing the lower bolts on the mountings) Jack up, remove mountings and fit new ones. Should take you about 40 mins. Why remove the trans sump? That baffles me.

 

[Dieselman]

No need to remove the transmission pan. Easy job to do. Jack under the sump (on wood to spread the load after undoing the lower bolts on the mountings) Jack up, remove mountings and fit new ones. Should take you about 40 mins. Why remove the trans sump? That baffles me.

I think he means the undershield.

The fitting is as Ian says but do one side at a time to keep the engine still. On a 606 Td it's the o/s mount that goes due to the additional weight on it.
You will need to jack the engine up a surprising amount to get he new mount in.
You don't need to take the heat shield off to do the o/s mount, just undo the top mounting bolt.

The belt pulley sounds like the mounting is shot, the pulley should be still.

A quick check of the mountings is to drive round a bend and accellerate. The engine noise will become louder as the engine settles on the old mounting, i.e. left hand bend = r/h mounting. Also the engine noise becomes louder when the car hits the bottom of a dip.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

I'm just reading from the american website - they have different terminology.

I'd spoken to my mate about this, we'd wondered if perhaps they had meant the engine oil pan which would have made more sense, but after having a look at it you don't even need to do that.


The engine mounts don't really give me any cause for concern, but there is that little bit of vibration on the steering wheel (being a Merc I would presume it shouldn't be doing that), and the car does shake a little when you kill the engine. Anyhow, at nearly 10 years old and 176,000 miles, it can't hurt - and its a heavy old engine.

If it doesn't cure the problem with the belt tensioner, the only thing I'll have left then is to take it back to Greenvale and ask them to sort it out - they repaired it the last time.


I've ordered the parts from MB, so hopefully I won't have any problems with locating pins not lining up.

Is it worth spraying the seats with anything? Greasing/oiling them up?

 

[Parrot of Doom]

btw, I did wonder about the whole 'engine mounts = kill tensioner' thing. The engine is vibrating as a whole, and the tensioner is mounted on the engine. I find myself wondering if the shocks really have that much influence over the degree of engine vibration as a whole - can anybody enlighten me on that? I thought their main purpose was to keep the engine suspended and stop vibration running through the chassis.

I can only presume that the degree of vibration is causing undue stress on the shocker, heating it up beyond its design, which enables the fluid to escape and the bushes to disintegrate, which eventually kills the shocker.

I intend to film a little bit of video showing engine vibration before/after, with the aid of a 10 pence piece Should be interesting to see the difference, if any.

 

[bolide]

I'd say you have a bad idler, a pulley out of true or something like a failing water pump. The serpentine belt should run without vibration and I would expect a damper to last 10 years. I'd have the belt off and spin up all the rotating parts to try and find the cause

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Parrot of Doom]

I'll have a look on Sunday, but tbh I would have expected the indie I used to have found anything like that the last time it went - they spent quite some time sorting it out.

The belt itself doesn't really vibrate a great deal, but you can see the tensioner going at it some. Its quite a high frequency vibration. I wonder why it would get so hot, friction?

The engine rocking slightly at switchoff raises my suspicions though.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Got the mounts today. Fitting tomorrow weather allowing. They're bloody huge!

Is it worth taking piccies? Seems like a fairly simple job.

 

[big x]

Got the mounts today. Fitting tomorrow weather allowing. They're bloody huge!

Is it worth taking piccies? Seems like a fairly simple job.

Yes please, I'm interested.

adam

 

[lukebowman551]

pics would be great, i have the 605 engine so that would be of interest.

 

[spitzkop]

Any info on replacing the engine mounts on a 270cdi as found in an ML?

Reading the WIS, its a lot of work, such as draining down the cooling system etc! Should I follow WIS or has anyone a better approach?

 

[Parrot of Doom]

IF you look in the Howto section you'll see my thread there. Please note that I originally got them the wrong way around!

I would imagine that once you've got the car in the air and the undertray off, it will all become clear.