Engine oil question again. MB229.1 = ACEA A3 B3?

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AANDYY

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E300DT-W210-1997-Elegance-Azurite Metalic Blue. (Don't mention the rust, LOL) Running on WVO. 65k m
Hi, I've been reading up on engine oils for my car after seeing this post in another forum (it might get some opinions on here going :)) quote-



Synthetic engine oil and old engines


Hello again

A recent post on oil change interval prompts me to post this


After a lot of research on this subject I found this some time ago. This guy seems to know what he talking about, but he was using diesel not veg. Here is what he said, with the link at the bottom.


"No, please please please don't use semi-synthetics!!! I used to have a Xsara TD and the flaming dealership would put in 10W40 semi synthetic. As soon as I got the car home out came the dealer oil and in went my own stuff (mineral). I will get around to explaining why you shouldn't use it but for now note the following:

1) A semi-synthetic is made of a mineral AND most likely, olefine based synthetic base stock. The two don't work together, having different thermal and MOFT capabilities. Marketing has sadly conned both the public and mechanics alike. Trust me, I have been in and around the oil industry for long enough.

2) A high grade mineral oil is better than any semi-synthetic. Look for the ACEA and actually more important, the SAE ratings. Wide ranging multi grades i.e. 10W60 are nonsense, 0W60 even more so. The incessant dash for either wide ranging or thinner oils for cold cranking is unnecessary in the UK. Find a SAE viscosity chart and note that you only need to go lower that a 15W## in temperatures lower than -15 C! Thus a 15W40 (looks old fashioned but ignore the hype) is quite suitable in the UK. Yes thinner oil gets round the engine quicker but then it shears more at higher temps since the claimed wide range is not really possible without large proportions of polymeric thickeners which degrade to sludge anyway. Since the compression ignition (diesel) engine runs cooler than its equivalent spark ignition unit, a 50 or 60 weight isn't really necessary either, so 15W40 it should be.

3) Rather than going to Halfords and paying retail prices for 5 litres of light duty product in bright coloured packaging with loads of impressive sounding description, learn to interpret the product data sheet, usually available online. Look for the highest C rating you can get i.e. SAE 15W40 CH-4. Retail oil is typically CF-4 which is bettered by CG, CG-4, CH, CH-4 and so on. Really, the highest currently available is CH-4; CI-4 is only necessary if the emission control system requires it. TBN factor is another important factor - the higher the better.

Thus I would recommend either:

MINERAL: Texaco URSA 15W40 SHPD Diesel Engine Oil (20 litres costs £32) from your local Texaco commercial lubricants agent. Don't confuse with Texaco Havoline.

SYNTHETIC: Redline 15W40 Diesel Engine Oil. This is a poly-ol-ester base stock oil and cannot be bettered. UK agent is Old Hall Performance but http://www.redline-europe.com has dealer details. Not cheap but I ran a PSA XUD9A engine on this for over the equivalent of 1.6 million miles on a test bed. Compression test after wards - as good as new! "


Here is the link
http://www.whatdiesel.co.uk/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=390


I hope this helps

Fred


So after doing some of my own research does MB229.1 equate to ACEA A3 B3?

From this on Comma's site -

Manufacturer Approved For: Volvo VDS-3, MAN 3275, MB 228.3
Service Classification: ACEA A3 B3 B4 E7 API SL CF CI-4

Meets requirements of: MB229.1, CUMMINS CES 20071/72/76/77/78, RENAULT RLD, MACK EO-M+, MTU TYPE 2, CAT ECF-1





Andy, a little confused :crazy:.
 

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