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Erratic Idling Tried everything ??

xixal

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
103
Location
UK
Car
C320 CDI Sport
This is one for the engine guru's You might even scratch your head at this one?

I have got a W203 C240 (2001 Model)

The car has been suffering from erractic idling, although this is more noticable when the car is stationary and the drive position (Autobox)

"its a if the engine is chugging" rocking from side to side (engine mounts ok)

Right this is what I have done ! with no effect

1. Re-newed the plugs (x 12)
2. New Airfilter
3. New Fuel Filter
4. 2 x courses of Injector cleaner
5. New Airflow Meter (£250 from Stealer)
6. Oil Change

The engine performs well to drive and when not in the drive position idles ok

Totally lost

Anyone any ideas ?????

xixal
 
Crank sensor, cam sensor, bad coil pack, blocked injector, spring to mind.

Really you need the codes read to find cylinder unballance.
 
Hi Dieselman,

As a process of elimination if i was to re-new the crank and Cam sensors would this be a major job ?? (ie) could I do it ??

Cheers xixal
 
I had exactly the same problem after I had work carried out by a dealership.
They had replaced plugs and leads as part of the work.
Went back for a day of checks and turned out to be faulty leads.
 
I have this same problem! (1996 C220) My idle speed indicates above 1000 revs and when it drops (stopped at lights etc) to around 500 the engine really struggles and whole car rocks like engine twisting on its mounts! to maintain rev. Its now with the mechanic who has had it for 4.5 days!! Mine is a long story getting to this point, but can I just ask what is the outcome results of yours?
 
Hi Klee,

Long story too! but the problem ended up being 3 x ignition leads, Lambda Sensor and the throttle actuator located near the MAF. Most newer Mercs are fitted with electric accelerator pedals that are controlled through the actuator and ECU.

Try, 1. Change all Ignition leads (£50) buy from europarts.

2. Replace MAF (£60 - £100) ebay

3. Clean airfilters.

4. Lambda Sensors £30 each Gendan Ltd

and finaly disconnect the battery for a hour this will reset your ECU.

All being well it should be fixed! failing this? Possible cause throttle actuator.

The throttle actuator is not a part that normally goes plus they are expensive so the other parts are worth purchasing first you will probably need them in the future.

Best regards

Al
 
I think you mean the yellow spanner icon? Y'know I've actually never seen this symbol on the dash anywhere! I was just mentioning this to my mech, I dunno what to make of it. Mine is 1996 C220. My sis in law has a 1997 C180 and hers has it (and it beeps close to service time!). Anyway xixal:

2. Replace MAF (£60 - £100) ebay
- which ebayer did this come from? I am going to be in UK in the next few weeks for a month+ so this is gonna be priority for me if I can really get this component cheaper than in sydney (the sydney mech shakes his head when he talks about the merc MAF $$$$)

and finaly disconnect the battery for a hour this will reset your ECU
- ah this I can do on my own ya
 
Hi,

MAF's are listed on the UK ebay all the time for around £60 - 100.

Regarding the light I wasn't refering to the Service indicator light which is the yellow spanner. The Engine management light is the shaped like a engine. Regarding disconnecting the battery I wouldn't recommend disconnecting your battery will nilly only in the event you have to reset the parameters within your ECU. Best regards xixal
 
Xixal, I took a pic of my dash when the ingition is turned one short of starting the car ... no sign of that Engine Mgmt icon you mentioned! Help

I found 1 seller on ebay doing the MAF sensor bsb1-parts but seems I have to very very careful with the correct part. My dealer I saw yesterday provided me with part number 000 094 0048. This doesn't seem to match any on bsb1-part's ad. Help
 

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Hi Klee,

The engine management light only comes on when there is a fault with the system (ie) once the car is started the engine management light will stay on whilst the others stay on. Send me the correct details of your car, make model, year and I will research you a MAF. I feel that the problem possibly may not be the MAF on yours ?? But it won't do any harm providing you've got the additional funds? failing this you could always try and and clean the pins of the MAF with Carb cleaner (NO FINGERS). Best regards Al
 
run your car with maf not connected and with are you sure maf was a new one ??
i would go for coil pack need a diagonstic check with auto elec
 
Xixal, mine is 1996 C220 WDB2020222F385849 Auto Sedan. I hear you re possibly not the air mass sensor (silerarrow, I have not yet bought a new one, still on the original), but given the age, you'd advise me getting a spare air mass sensor right? This 8 yr old component is bound to give up ... and since the benz dealer here quoted me AUD$1600 for the part (!!!he must have got it wrong!? perhaps including labour??) I better get my hands on one whilst in UK. Right, since you mentioned cleaning the pins of the sensor, I am going to try to pen down what (cryptic) my mech detailed/performed for the service he did since the erratic idling reared its ugly head.

He said the diagnostic output these:
MB010 hot film air mass sensor 77935 open circuit
MB036 fuel adaptation (lamda) control mixture too rich (lean stop)
MB007 idle speed control (malfunction) cause by MAF
MB032 knock sensor (KS) defective cause by wiring

He had the car for 4 days but I suspect he wasnt working on mine exclusively! He performed lots of scans, diagnostics and testing and cleaning all the sensors/wiring/terminals. I remembered he specifically said he did clean the air mass sensor foil. No parts were replaced, he mainly tried best to clean, reset the ECU and by process of elimination/tweaking got the idling under control. He only charged me GBP100. However he has one warning note that the auto kick-down cable needs to be replaced - the adjuster is broken. Does this ring a bell and should I be getting this part too, what is it? You talked about throttle actuator - is this about the same thing? All sounding awfully similar to me. What should I do? He said it isn't all perfect as he was worried it might be the almighty Idle Speed Control 'Actuator' which he says contains loads of other units within that may be at fault and need replacing - do you know this part? Its $$$ according to him and the failure may be in it. I told him I'm off to UK and said parts may be cheaper so he said to get the:

- air mass sensor
- idle speed control actuator (he alerted it had many devices within that may have failed but always replaced as a whole pack)
- spare radiator! (yep mine has a leak at the neck of the sensor and that radiator part in australian models is different!)

He tuned it so much when I got back the car I could hardly hear the engine from within the cabin. It now idles just above 500. However these are the outstanding issues we both noted:

- when in Drive and idling and I switch ON the aircon it places a load on the engine and rpm drops sharply below 500 and usually car shudders heavily as it tries to stay alive. In Neutral or Park no shuddering cos engine not under the same load as Drive. FYI in Feb 2005 I got aircon specialist to overhaul the whole aircon system with a refurbished condensor/compressor - a full job (GBP640!) done on the car.
- when I have driven about 20 - 30 minutes (and never sooner), stopping at lights I am aware the idling mucks around and dropping below 500 either causes the ECU to compensate and up revs the engine OR engine cuts out altogether. No prob starting if it does (so far).
- there is a occasional and slight, very temporary loss of power as I accelerate from standing still

Any engine gurus please shed light.
 
I got to admit i don't know the inside of the c class bay, but if i was faced with this i would take the throttle body off and give it a good clean in carb clener.
 
zooman said:
I got to admit i don't know the inside of the c class bay, but if i was faced with this i would take the throttle body off and give it a good clean in carb clener.
zooman, when you say throttle body do you mean the Idle Speed Slide Actuator? It is the large alloy block (on the top right) in the attched pics?
 

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