ESP warning message

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stephenmercedes

stephenmercedes

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What happened when it broke down before?
It was a relatively simple issue of a bad fuel leak in the petrol tank (now replaced), to be fair, the car was totally 'driveable', but I didn't fancy doing so with petrol squirting out onto a hot exhaust! :)

I wouldn’t worry too much just yet - could be something relatively simple eg brake light switch for the ESP issue likewise not being able to select drive or in/out of P/N. Perhaps even a selector linkage/bush issue too?

Battery should be simple to check (along with the earth strap etc)
I love this, thank you, it's like a warm hug from a friend - especially this time of year when funds are stretched as it is! Let's hope...
 
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BobHUK

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Will,

When my battery went dead I had similar symptoms. The transmission went all 'loose' in that putting your foot on the throttle made the revs rise, but until you put your foot down a long way, all drive was more or less gone. I suspect that there's something electronic either in the torque converter or in the gearbox itself which helps the mechanicals to take up the drive. When the battery goes down the electronics get turned off and the drive becomes very slow and sloppy. That's the best way I can describe it. You have to rev the b*lls off it to get the car to move anywhere.

Also, when it finally gave up the ghost, the dash lights would still come on, but the engine wouldn't turn over on the key, so again, similar symptoms to yours.

In my case the battery went down because the alternator had packed up. On mine the alternator is water cooled by the engine coolant, so the old one had to be taken out and the new one plumbed in, which made it a bit expensive. In all I think it cost £300 for the refurbished replacement alternator, and that was much cheaper than I'd seen new one's being advertised. So far it's worked OK, but that was just over a year ago, so how long it will last I don't know.

Anyway, best of luck with yours, and I hope it's something simple that's gone, not an expensive item.
 
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stephenmercedes

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Just got call from garage, all fixed! :D They had to replace the front SAM unit. Now, he hadn't got the price details ready so no idea how much it'll be till I pick it up, probably tomorrow. Anyone any idea of how much it might be?
 
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stephenmercedes

stephenmercedes

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Might be a bit OTT putting a new one into a 17 yr old car. These guys might give you an idea of what it would cost.

Welcome to Prestige Allparts

Should have said, the garage I use is also a MB breakers, so highly like it's a used one, as I've had 'used' parts in the past from them...That link is great, they do the front SAM for £90 + VAT which is very reasonable!
 
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classiccarzone

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My friend got a second hand one a few months ago. He paid €120.00 for it which included delivery.
 
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stephenmercedes

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Picked car up this morning and she is driving beautifully. I also got them to test the battery as well just to make sure she was OK for winter, and in the words of that famous 20th century Star Trek engineer, Scotty, "..she is performing within normal parameters..." :) As always, Creevy Autos in Belfast were great.

As to the cost, the whole breakdown, including recovery truck, taxi home, second hand front SAM unit, labour to diagnose and fit same - £230! Could have been alot worse. Onward and upwards... :D
 

Will

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Can’t kill an old Merc that easily! :)
 
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stephenmercedes

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Well, the old ESP issue is back. Car has new battery, and a new 'ESP' sensor in rear. This issue is doing my head in now as it doesn't seem to effect STAR so no definitive diagnosis can be made - suggestions?

ESP fault LoRes.jpg
 

markjay

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Battery (which you say is new)

Wheel sensors (you replaces one, there are 4)

Tyres' condition or pressures

Brake servo or sensor issue

ESP-off switch faulty?

However, it doea seem odd tgat you have a warning message on the dash and no fault is showing on STAR.
 

Old spanners

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Well, the old ESP issue is back. Car has new battery, and a new 'ESP' sensor in rear. This issue is doing my head in now as it doesn't seem to effect STAR so no definitive diagnosis can be made - suggestions?

View attachment 83683
Had the same warning on mine after changing a front track control arm, ended up replacing the other and getting the car tracked. There were no fault codes on my basic OBD2 reader and the light cleared after a few days of driving.
The steering angle sensor caused this as the steering wheel was off centre and it seen the car as constantly turning even when driving straight.
 

OJLane

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Was it alternator? When my alternator went the battery obviously drained left me with the same issues you had!
 

Wolfie1

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Im going to go with the abs ring on 1 of the rear driveshafts, there will be corrosion under it, caused it to swell and split the ring, so now the sensor wont be picking up the pulses as it rotates because it wont be anymore (these can be bought seperatly from a driveshaft from merc)
 
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stephenmercedes

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Im going to go with the abs ring on 1 of the rear driveshafts, there will be corrosion under it, caused it to swell and split the ring, so now the sensor wont be picking up the pulses as it rotates because it wont be anymore (these can be bought seperatly from a driveshaft from merc)
Now, here's a dumb question. When the key is turned onto ignition, there are no error messages. However, within 2 seconds of the engine starting, the ESP error shows. Would this fault show with the car stationary, or would it need to move if that fault was the cause? (told you it was dumb!)
 

Old spanners

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Now, here's a dumb question. When the key is turned onto ignition, there are no error messages. However, within 2 seconds of the engine starting, the ESP error shows. Would this fault show with the car stationary, or would it need to move if that fault was the cause? (told you it was dumb!)
Definitely looks like the steering angle sensor on the steering column.
 

HITECH

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Steering angle sensor would almost certainly throw up a code. There is a dyno manual test drive for calibrating. but when this is required the ABS light would be on aswell. Check simple things like your brake fluid level, damaged wheels, wheel bearing. It can be so hard sometimes sussing out a bad wheel bearing if it appears to be ok and no noise. I have had ESP faults on customers cars with the problem being the wheel bearing after new disks were fitted. Pikey mechanics leaving disk retaining screw off giving it enough movement for the sensor to notice. These are only suggestions.

Definitely looks like the steering angle sensor on the steering column.
 

Joderest

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it could well be that after the steering wheel alignment that a steering angle sensor reset is required. It is a series of turns and driving straight performed at a certain speed. I did post it here somewhere but cannot remember, it was early in 2018. Its a STAR thing that i found by accident.
It sorted my ML out when it had same sort of issue.
I will try to find the post
 

Joderest

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found the thread i posted, here is the process below

Flabbergasted, never has my gasted been so flabbered !!!!!!!!!!! IT WORKED
After 10 days of driving with the ABS light on, and it was unable to be reset by scanner, just kept coming back on, after a lot of research on line, found the drive test process. I did it just once, light went out at end of test, driven about 20 miles since, stopped and restarted about 10 times, still not come back on, so fingers crossed, resolved. In case any other member has same issue, here is the process copied from a STAR document.

using scanner, ensure there are no uncleared fault codes, and only the "road test" fault is present, end diagnostic and disconnect scanner.

Road Test
1. Switch off ignition
2. Start engine
3. press ESP off switch, ESP warning light and BAS/ESP light will come on, ESP will now be switched off
Note. The road test must be conducted with-in 15 seconds
4. Drive the vehicle forward at approximately 6-10 mph (must keep constant speed)
5. After a short distance (few yards) turn the vehicle left and then right. The steering wheel should be turned between 90 and 180 degrees.
6. with in 10 seconds begin turning a quarter circle and then briefly steer in the other direction.

The lights will go out if successful. If not repeat process from 1. Its important not to turn steering wheel more than 180 degrees, I marked the top with a bit of masking tape so I knew where it was all the time. You must also keep to the correct speed.

It worked for me, I hope it may help someone else out.
 

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