Expertise very much needed on this unique Wagon/Estate

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milanodriver

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
7
Car
mercedes
Hi there all,

Quite a long run member here usually reads topics and try to become knowledgeable about anything....

This time help is needed....

Looking to buy a '01 E320 CDI Wagon/Estate with 125K miles (200K km) with to be frank never saw before options...

Adaptive damping system w/skyhook
Multi-contour Heated & Ventilated & Memory Seats (2)
Navigation
6 buttons on top of the screen
Beige interior
Birdseye wood interior & steering wheel
AMG Bodykit & wheels

and many more....

I have been reading topics but still like to ask some questions and get help from experienced out there...

I have the car Star diagnostic printout picture

It shows these;

EGS - p2314 one or more n73 control unit are not available

CDI 2 - p1403-032 exhaust gas recirculation negative offset

ESP - c1024 CAN communication with the ECU n15/3. control unit EGS and disturbed

ADS -

12-001 y54 valve block right side rear axle shock absorber

13-001 y54 valve block right side rear axle shock absorber

n49 steering angle sensor not initialized

power supply voltage to Terminal 87 under voltage

Sorry for the crappy translation as it was in a different language other than English

Problem with the purchase is, i will not be able to take the car to an indy or else for a Start diagnostic and have to make a judgement by these information above....

Read that a weak battery might be causing some of these but still not sure....

So what roughly or exactly we r looking here in regards of

A- parts need to be changed

B - parts that can be repaired

C - can be deleted by the Star

Any input is mostly appreciated in advance....

Thanks

George
 
if the battery hasn't been changed in at least 4 years change it, then get the codes deleted, drive the car for a week and then get the car plugged back into star again and this will tell you if the codes are old stored codes or new live ones.
 
It sounds as if it has some form of active suspension all round probably air [ skyhook]
The fault codes would indicate there is a problem/leak with the rear right suspension unit-- these are not cheap to replace if this is the case.
The EGR may have been removed and the port blocked off ---- a common tweak
 
Not sure if this is relevant to the w210, but on the w140 after the battery has been disconnected you need to turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to reset the steering angle sensor. It maybe that the code for that one is a simple reset procedure to clear it.
 
I'm sure you are probably aware that rectifying any, or all, of the aforementioned problems could cost you considerably more than you might be paying for the car (however cheap the car might be)

As mentioned, battery low voltage could generate some of the faults.
 
if the battery hasn't been changed in at least 4 years change it, then get the codes deleted, drive the car for a week and then get the car plugged back into star again and this will tell you if the codes are old stored codes or new live ones.

This can happen only if/when i buy the car and i would be lucky if the cores are old stored but would be in a quite annoying situation if the codes are new...

I am looking for the possible worst scenario here. What does that codes mean and what am i going to get into? Will single/both accumulator change be enough for the suspension issue here...Saw the car was on level on pics and will be seeing the car in a week in person...

Anybody can chime in for these codes?
 
It sounds as if it has some form of active suspension all round probably air [ skyhook]

* searched skyhook but no luck; any links you might share?

The fault codes would indicate there is a problem/leak with the rear right suspension unit-- these are not cheap to replace if this is the case.

* are we looking for single/double accumulator change here or more? Saw the car was on level on pics

The EGR may have been removed and the port blocked off ---- a common tweak

* will search for this online
 
I'm sure you are probably aware that rectifying any, or all, of the aforementioned problems could cost you considerably more than you might be paying for the car (however cheap the car might be)

As mentioned, battery low voltage could generate some of the faults.

Thanks....

In a good day, i may be done with a new battery and some small work on the car...

Lets think the opposite; what might be possible worst scenario? What might be the approximate highest cost on these codes? That will help me in my decision (actually i want that car) and my negotiation with the seller...
 
Air suspension on these cars is expensive to fix because the individual components are expensive to replace via normal MB sources. One faulty unit may mean exactly that or it could be an indication they are all past their best. OR it could be just a fault code that hasn't been cleared. [ I DOUBT IT] This is a complex car that's 12 years old. Its prudent to expect the worst when buying to avoid any unforeseen expensive surprises. I would be asking the seller exactly what work if any - has been done on the suspension. If he says work has been done ask to see the invoices detailing the work.
 
Air suspension on these cars is expensive to fix because the individual components are expensive to replace via normal MB sources. One faulty unit may mean exactly that or it could be an indication they are all past their best. OR it could be just a fault code that hasn't been cleared. [ I DOUBT IT] This is a complex car that's 12 years old. Its prudent to expect the worst when buying to avoid any unforeseen expensive surprises. I would be asking the seller exactly what work if any - has been done on the suspension. If he says work has been done ask to see the invoices detailing the work.

Thanks for the reply, i havent seen the car yet but seen pics...The car was on level...You are right, it would be best to expect the worst and do all maths accordingly...

Will see the car in the 1st week of new year...

Will write more once seen...

One question though...There is this suspension sign button on top right of the shift knob; opposite of ESP button, above the right front passenger window switch, what exactly does this button do?

Happy holidays...
 
Can't help you there as unfortunately the source for downloading owners manuals from the USA has changed . Used to go back to year 2000 now only goes back to 2007.
 
One question though...There is this suspension sign button on top right of the shift knob; opposite of ESP button, above the right front passenger window switch, what exactly does this button do?

I would guess it puts the suspension into a firmer 'sports mode'. I have a 1997 R129 SL with ADS and that has a switch similar to the one you mention. It has a red LED on it that lights up when sports mode is active.

The other switches for the suspension on mine are near the headlight switch. There's a raise/lower rocker, and a button for locking the suspension completely (for when the car is being jacked up). Assuming this car has similar, have a play when you see it and use any issues as (strong) negotiating points! Good luck.
 
Thanks for the reply, i havent seen the car yet but seen pics...The car was on level...You are right, it would be best to expect the worst and do all maths accordingly...

Will see the car in the 1st week of new year...

Will write more once seen...

One question though...There is this suspension sign button on top right of the shift knob; opposite of ESP button, above the right front passenger window switch, what exactly does this button do?

Happy holidays...

This button adjusts the suspension , making the dampers harder .The ride height cannot be raised or lowered , like in the 211 with Airmatic . The 210 has steel springs , not air bladders .
Thus is a very rare option on 210s , I would expect replacement dampers to be quite expensive in comparison to a 210 with standard suspension
 

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