Exploded diagram of a E class rear locking system please (S211)
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corned
MB Enthusiast
This is an area of the S211 I am more than intimately familiar with, unfortunately.
I appreciate it's not strictly legit, but this should be a start:
Once you've found your way in there, you will be dismayed/gobsmacked at how much kit there is in there! No wonder they're heavy...
I appreciate it's not strictly legit, but this should be a start:
Once you've found your way in there, you will be dismayed/gobsmacked at how much kit there is in there! No wonder they're heavy...
corned
MB Enthusiast
Does it run for the 'normal' length of time?
If so, the motor may be pulling OK, but the latch may be loose. I.e the motor is pulling the latch, not the latch firmly attached to the rest of the tailgate.
Also, make sure the anchor bar on the body (#70 in the diagram) is also firmly attached in the recess under that catflap.
If all the attachments are firm, then you will need to try to assess what isn't pulling where it should be. You may be able to simulate this by pushing a suitable diameter rod into the latch to see whether it starts taking it in or not. However, bear in mind that these things are quite clever, so it would not surprise me if the thing didn't operate up at an angle (i.e. with the tailgate up to a degree), because it knew full well it couldn't possibly be closed properly!
When I said I was intimately familiar with these things, I meant the tailgate and it's internals in general, not the latch mechanism specifically. Just thought I'd mention that...
If so, the motor may be pulling OK, but the latch may be loose. I.e the motor is pulling the latch, not the latch firmly attached to the rest of the tailgate.
Also, make sure the anchor bar on the body (#70 in the diagram) is also firmly attached in the recess under that catflap.
If all the attachments are firm, then you will need to try to assess what isn't pulling where it should be. You may be able to simulate this by pushing a suitable diameter rod into the latch to see whether it starts taking it in or not. However, bear in mind that these things are quite clever, so it would not surprise me if the thing didn't operate up at an angle (i.e. with the tailgate up to a degree), because it knew full well it couldn't possibly be closed properly!
When I said I was intimately familiar with these things, I meant the tailgate and it's internals in general, not the latch mechanism specifically. Just thought I'd mention that...
When you have gotten access to all that mechanism, a general spray of WD40 at anything in there that moves, slides or rotates, this might pay dividends and assist whatever it is that is trying to work.
Dec
shorty
MB Enthusiast
The tail gate lock on the 211 is a sealed unit , the motor that pulls in the lock is not visible , unlike the 210 and 124 .
If the motor can be hear running and the lock insnt puling in then I would suspect that one of the plastic gears inside the lock has striped of some teeth .
If the motor can be hear running and the lock insnt puling in then I would suspect that one of the plastic gears inside the lock has striped of some teeth .
shorty
MB Enthusiast
The lock is the part 100 . There is two types of lock also . On early pre face lift cars and face lift cars with the 7 seat option there was 2 cables attached to the lock , one cable joined onto the exterior release handle , and the other cable connected to the interior release handle .
On the face lift cars with out the 7 seat option there was no inner release handle , and the lock only has one cable . This cable attachés to an emergence release latch on the inside of the tail gate panel , its covered by a small plastic cover .
On the face lift cars with out the 7 seat option there was no inner release handle , and the lock only has one cable . This cable attachés to an emergence release latch on the inside of the tail gate panel , its covered by a small plastic cover .
Hello
So my car a pre faclifted none 7 seater is likley to be the part 100 that has lost some teeth on the threads?
Also I have a part number 211 7400893/28 ?
as it looks like my dad (first owner of this car) has looked at this once before...
Does this part number related to anything above?
So my car a pre faclifted none 7 seater is likley to be the part 100 that has lost some teeth on the threads?
Also I have a part number 211 7400893/28 ?
as it looks like my dad (first owner of this car) has looked at this once before...
Does this part number related to anything above?
shorty
MB Enthusiast
That part number is for the release handle numbered 10 on the diagram .
There is a few different part numbers showing for the tail gate latch
A2117400535
This number should be the correct one for the twin cable lock
There is a few different part numbers showing for the tail gate latch
A2117400535
This number should be the correct one for the twin cable lock
Thanks for that
What I don't understand is that changing the handle? I cannot see that helping the boot self close? unless the cogs are built into part of the mechanisum?
Just found this...close part number but not the same.
MERCEDES E CLASS 211 BOOT LOCK HANDLE NEW A2117400893 on eBay (end time 22-Feb-11 07:53:39 GMT)
Looks like £146 plus vat from the dealer
Still not convinced that would fix it?
What I don't understand is that changing the handle? I cannot see that helping the boot self close? unless the cogs are built into part of the mechanisum?
Just found this...close part number but not the same.
MERCEDES E CLASS 211 BOOT LOCK HANDLE NEW A2117400893 on eBay (end time 22-Feb-11 07:53:39 GMT)
Looks like £146 plus vat from the dealer
Still not convinced that would fix it?
Hello
Ok so not had much time to look at this..but
If I push a screw driver over the lock part in this picture then I can hear the motor trying to close the boot.
Is the part that has gone faulty in the above picture rather than the one below which I have started to take apart?
Ok so not had much time to look at this..but
If I push a screw driver over the lock part in this picture then I can hear the motor trying to close the boot.
Is the part that has gone faulty in the above picture rather than the one below which I have started to take apart?
corned
MB Enthusiast
There is nothing under the catflap which moves. The only thing under there is the fixed latch loop which the catch on the bottom of the tailgate pulls on.
As for removing that trim panel, then you are not far off already. You already have the bottom plastic panel off, so now the only thing to do is remove the interior handle/checkstrap, and then pull the whole door card upwards (i.e. towards the back window) and it should slide off the metalwork and free of the tailgate. You may need to pull the bottom of the window side trim panels out to give it enough room to move upwards.
As for removing that trim panel, then you are not far off already. You already have the bottom plastic panel off, so now the only thing to do is remove the interior handle/checkstrap, and then pull the whole door card upwards (i.e. towards the back window) and it should slide off the metalwork and free of the tailgate. You may need to pull the bottom of the window side trim panels out to give it enough room to move upwards.
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