Fault code p0101 fixed but engine light still flashes

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Jj86

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2022
Messages
40
Location
Oxford
Car
Sprinter
Hi. Would appreciate some help please. So my van went into limp mode after starting it up Saturday morning got down the road and white smoke bellowed out the pipe on idle. Took the car for a run in hope it cleared.
Had it plugged in with fault code p0101 on further inspection I found intercooler pipe had a split, so today brought brand new original pipe and changed it. But engine management light is still flashing and feels very restricted
 
Did you clear the code?

I would double check all the connections are tight also as even a small gap can reduce boost pressure and cause low power. There should be two pipes, was the other one ok also?
 
Did you clear the code?

I would double check all the connections are tight also as even a small gap can reduce boost pressure and cause low power. There should be two pipes, was the other one ok also?
The other one looked ok, haven’t taken it off to check.. the pipe that I replaced looked like to be a fair amount of oil inside?
I do t have the facility to clear the codes the one reader I have to ont allow me to clear them. Really appreciate ur reply
 
Have checked the pipe on the opasit end and that is fine, also cleaned the egr. I’m so confused as the bloke at the Mercedes garage advised me that the code would clear once I changed over the spilt pipe?
 
anyone know a what I should check next?
 
I don't know specifically about your fault code, but just to say that not all fault codes go away once the root cause has been fixed. If you're into DIY, then I suggest that you get yourself an iCarsoft or a Carly and try clearing the fault codes then see if they come back. Also, your current code reader is likely to be a generic OBDII reader that can't access most of the car's ECUs anyway, so won't be giving you an accurate description of the problem.
 
You say your code reader doesn't allow you to clear codes? That looks like the Streetwize machine you have which does have the ability. So do you mean you're trying but the code comes back?
Are you doing the clear with key on, engine off?

The guy at the garage was right, nearly all faults will heal themselves if you've rectified the problem. If they are not and they are coming back after a clear that's because you haven't rectified the problem.

Assuming you can reset, when does it come back? As soon as you start? If so I can't believe that's a little leak. Nothing is under pressure at idle. Plausability faults don't normally flag straight away either, electrical or physical range checks do though.

I'd be wanting to see the reported MAF flow was when the fault occurs. That would need a better diag tool.

I know air mass adaption is done on some engines. This is meant to correct for MAF drift but running with blocks or leaks for long periods can cause an offset to be learnt that then upsets it when you fix the issue. Resettable with a decent service tool if that's the issue.
 
You say your code reader doesn't allow you to clear codes? That looks like the Streetwize machine you have which does have the ability. So do you mean you're trying but the code comes back?
Are you doing the clear with key on, engine off?

The guy at the garage was right, nearly all faults will heal themselves if you've rectified the problem. If they are not and they are coming back after a clear that's because you haven't rectified the problem.

Assuming you can reset, when does it come back? As soon as you start? If so I can't believe that's a little leak. Nothing is under pressure at idle. Plausability faults don't normally flag straight away either, electrical or physical range checks do though.

I'd be wanting to see the reported MAF flow was when the fault occurs. That would need a better diag tool.

I know air mass adaption is done on some engines. This is meant to correct for MAF drift but running with blocks or leaks for long periods can cause an offset to be learnt that then upsets it when you fix the issue. Resettable with a decent service tool if that's the issue.
Thanks for replying, yeas it’s a streetwise scanner.
And with engine off it dosnt allow me to clear codes, I’m not sure if it’s becouse there’s another code p1955 says manufacturers code preventing me from clearing them? I changed the air filter too as that was really dirty full of all sorts? I’m running out of ideas here but the day before this happened I was on the way to fill up with diesel and was running on empty and it bogged out slightly before reaching the garage like it was going to run out… if this is that case I’m thinking maybe something been sucked out the tank and possibly blocked something? But obviously that would not of caused the split pipe to happen maybe that was like it for a while? Iv driving it the past week. Ow with the new pipe and engine light still flashing and limp mode engaging
 
Thanks for replying, yeas it’s a streetwise scanner.
And with engine off it dosnt allow me to clear codes, I’m not sure if it’s becouse there’s another code p1955 says manufacturers code preventing me from clearing them? I changed the air filter too as that was really dirty full of all sorts? I’m running out of ideas here but the day before this happened I was on the way to fill up with diesel and was running on empty and it bogged out slightly before reaching the garage like it was going to run out… if this is that case I’m thinking maybe something been sucked out the tank and possibly blocked something? But obviously that would not of caused the split pipe to happen maybe that was like it for a while? Iv driving it the past week. Ow with the new pipe and engine light still flashing and limp mode engaging
Ignition on then clear the fault , otherwise a better scanner is needed , like Icarsoft which not terribly expensive either
 
There are no codes that can prevent you clearing.

Key on, engine off is the standard notation for accessory position 2, lights on dash but engine not running. That should allow clear codes, even if they do come straight back.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the code clear as doubt it will help much, if the fault wasn't there it would have healed itself.

Similar stories on here and the other forum after fixing leaks/changing really clogged filters. General advice is to run the filter reset service function. You'll need a proper service to to do that.
That is to reset the values learnt by the air mass adaption when it was leaking.
 
Hello it’s me again .. to update Iv had Mercedes’ plug it back in with there computer and apparently it’s coming up with over boost problem and the mechanic has offered to help me fix it privately. Now soon this he has said after clearing the codes and before even turning the engine up this fault is reappeared and said it’s a boost sensor??? He’s took £150 and said he’s gonna order this part for me this was Friday. All weekend Iv been ignored when asking him when can I should take the time off work to go back down to fit it. Maybe busy but I’m after some second opinions on the fault he’s claiming does it sound genuine to u?
 
Sounds plausible imo.

It Is the weekend so give the technician a chance to get back to you.
 
Sounds plausible imo.

It Is the weekend so give the technician a chance to get back to you.
Does the issue he’s saying sound correct to you? That he’s cleared the code and before starting the engine it appears again, I just under the impression the engine would have to run in order for the code to appear m
 
Overboost error from my experience occurs from either a faulty boost sensor, turbo actuator fault or a dodgy poor remap.
 
Overboost error from my experience occurs from either a faulty boost sensor, turbo actuator fault or a dodgy poor remap.
Sorry to bombard you but would oil covering the pipe coming off from under the turbo confirm this too? When I asked him he said the oil was caused my the over boosting too? And would stop once the sensor was changed as the turbo would work again… is there away if checking if the actuator is faulty when it’s in limp mode still
 
When my car was going into limp mode I had the fault code as over boost pressure. It turned out I needed a new turbo actuator. Has a reconditioned one installed. All was well, untill now, my turbo has failed now.
 
Sorry to bombard you but would oil covering the pipe coming off from under the turbo confirm this too? When I asked him he said the oil was caused my the over boosting too? And would stop once the sensor was changed as the turbo would work again… is there away if checking if the actuator is faulty when it’s in limp mode still

Not sure as I am not an expert but if overboosting then I am guessing it is possible with extra load on the worn seals but also get him to replace all of the relevant gaskets/seals for the turbo feed pipes.

The seals are relatively cheap.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom