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Finally got my C Class!

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If it helps I had a wheel welded just like yours years ago on the wife's B200. The garage said it was due to hitting a pot hole with low profile tyres and not uncommon. The wheel has performed perfectly since welded, does not leak or wobble, but is mentioned on advisories when MOT'd, this may effect the resale if not replaced.
The marks on the disc are cosmetic and caused by harsh alloy wheel cleaners, they will disappear after a few miles.
 
Advisory: I know nothing about welding.

I believe it’s common practice to leave welds standing proud on the inside of the wheel (for strength), but to grind it down on the outside, and so wouldn’t be noticeable to an MOT tester.

However if the repair is on the edge, and only accessible from one direction then they may need to leave the weld standing proud, and not grinding back.
 
Advisory: I know nothing about welding.

I believe it’s common practice to leave welds standing proud on the inside of the wheel (for strength), but to grind it down on the outside, and so wouldn’t be noticeable to an MOT tester.

However if the repair is on the edge, and only accessible from one direction then they may need to leave the weld standing proud, and not grinding back.
I worked in the aircraft industry, we welded lots of different alloys, provided the crack has been ground away in a vee and cleaned there should be no issues, the weld indeed is left proud to maintain strength.
 
If it helps I had a wheel welded just like yours years ago on the wife's B200. The garage said it was due to hitting a pot hole with low profile tyres and not uncommon. The wheel has performed perfectly since welded, does not leak or wobble, but is mentioned on advisories when MOT'd, this may effect the resale if not replaced.
The marks on the disc are cosmetic and caused by harsh alloy wheel cleaners, they will disappear after a few miles.

Yes, I understand that it’s common practice. And as @Bobby Dazzler eluded to early on in this thread if it’s done properly then it’s stronger than the alloy itself. However, the strength of the weld can only be found with an X-ray?
 
Just curious but how do I obtain the part number for this Alloy (just by removing it (again)) and am I best asking for a price from local MD dealer or is there a website?
 
Not if you know of a good pothole to test it?
I hear what ya saying Russ nudge nudge wink wink 😁

But knowing my luck it’d stay in tact and the rear wheel would crack/buckle. 🤪
 
Yes, I understand that it’s common practice. And as @Bobby Dazzler eluded to early on in this thread if it’s done properly then it’s stronger than the alloy itself. However, the strength of the weld can only be found with an X-ray?
Alloys by definition are made for lightness and to be cosmetic, strength is not their biggest virtue. Unless you know a friendly dentist, I imagine it would be difficult to have them X ray'd. I think damaged and cracked alloy wheels are the norm now and repairs are safe and easy to do.
 
Just curious but how do I obtain the part number for this Alloy (just by removing it (again)) and am I best asking for a price from local MD dealer or is there a website?

 
Alloys by definition are made for lightness and to be cosmetic, strength is not their biggest virtue. Unless you know a friendly dentist, I imagine it would be difficult to have them X ray'd. I think damaged and cracked alloy wheels are the norm now and repairs are safe and easy to do.
Thanks for that. Reassuring.

Never heard of a ‘friendly dentist’ though. Mine is a masochist. 😑
 
Just curious but how do I obtain the part number for this Alloy (just by removing it (again)) and am I best asking for a price from local MD dealer or is there a website?
A20540113007

£730 for a new front wheel from the above supplier 👍
 
I think you should just go the full hog.....

Ordered along with a pink MR2 import ✅
 

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