Fitting a radar detector to my 320CLK

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New Member
Sep 8, 2002
Hi Everyone

I want to fit my Valentine One detector to my CLK (I hate speed cameras), but I need to know how to connect up the power.  I'm thinking of running a cable under the trim around the windsceen and down to the fusebox by the drivers door.  But how do I know which wire to tap into for power?

Any advice gratefully received  

Thanks <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
When i wire up stuff like this, i take power from either the cigarette lighter (always first choice) or the radio/head-unit.

Just splice the wire, without bodging it back up... <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
NO! do not listen to V12 - that is so amature (sorry V12)

If I was to do it my way, I would run it to the fuse box <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> means raping the cars interior just have a look at some of the crazy shiet I have done:


but yeah V12's way would work - I was looking at Valentine Ones's today - where did you get yours and how much?
Sorry K, but running all the way round to the fuse box, in most peoples opinion is too much work...

If it was my car, i would run it there, but 99% of people wont, because of the work involved. <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
I had a hands-free kit and cd-changer fitted by the stealer before I bought my car and they did as V12 suggested and spliced into the head unit supply lead.

I guess it is OK for low current applications that wont overload the circuit and they did a neat job. <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

If you are going to mount the detector on the dash, then I would think you would want the lead hidden by feeding through a vent or hole. To do this this you may be just as well going down to the fuse box as you will probably have to remove much of the dash anyway <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('>

Why not just stick to the speed limit and not bother with the detector. HeHe, <img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I guess it is OK for low current applications that wont overload the circuit and they did a neat job. &nbsp;

</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

I believe that the Cig. Lighter supply is of a high current rating. Have you seen the size of the cabling that goes to it? I believe that the supply has a 30A fuse, so is good as you will find. As long as the spliced supply has it's own in-line fuse of a lower rating, suitable for the Radar Detector then all will be fine.

You have to admire Koolvin for his dedication to keeping things OEM. IMO for one or two additional items then splicing the existing cabling, I would say is fine. If you are fitting half a dozen additional electrical items, then do a wiring run to the fuse box.
Thanks guys

I got my V1 about 2 years ago and it cost me £495 on a special deal from an Audi dealer (I had a TT before the CLK).

Current prices look to be between 525 and 545

Lots of web sites selling it - try a Google search

Here is one I made earlier:

how are you finding it in the UK and also have u disabled the 2 bands that are not needed in the uk?
It works very well - certainly saved me points and fines.

I didn't disable anything - used it strainght out of the box
Theres 2 bands u can disable to stop getting false alrms from supermarket automatic doors.... also there is new firmwire out that you can set so u can detect mini gatso's etc etc...
I did not know that

where can I get information more info?
X &amp; Ka Bands have to be deactivated to eliminate false alerts automatic doors, you can get into the engineering menu for that!

Ku Band Detection of Mini Gatso - if I knew what freq they ran on I could tell you what to activate.. anyway I don't own a Valentine one (yet) and if I knew if it had a serial line or what protocol it used I could just tap into it and upgrade it myself - if you want me to I can investigate - let me know?

however - if you are made from money then you can see this:

Upgrade your existing Valentine One to the new, improved Valentine One Generation 2. With the widespread introduction of Ku band Mini Gatso (in the UK and other European countries) over the last 18 months, the Valentine One has been re-engineered to offer coverage of this important new frequency.

Simply return your existing V1 (in working condition, with no tampering of the serial number) and we'll exchange it for a brand new V1 Generation 2 - fully boxed and with a full accessory pack.

UPGRADE PRICE - £269.95 inc Vat - £6.00 Delivery


just found this on the OFFICIAL Valentine one website:

No Planned Obsolescence:
Other detector makers want you to throw away your old detector and buy new. Not me. Nine years after the first Valentine One, I'm still working for that customer, because every Valentine One we've ever made can be upgraded to the latest technology.


it asks for your serial number -

PLEASE let me know what happens when u bung it in!!!!!

oh - and a link to how to turn of the bands:

am I good or what?

Ive done some MORE investigation....

after you turn of those 2 bands then you are nearly there to a full upgrade - what u need to check is this: 'We've recently added Ku coverage with serial numbers ending 0600 or higher. Earlier V1s do not cover Ku.' if your serial number is higher then you have full uk coverage! and if you do have the later serial numbered unit then follow this procedure:

current-production V1s have coverage on that band installed but not &quot;activated&quot; as they leave the factory. For do-it-yourself instructions on activation, see

(please post the £251 to me - cheques payable to
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (NewCLKOwner @ Sep. 09 2002,19:23)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Koolvin

You are truly awesome!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'll quote you on that!
This is how I did mine

The main unit next to rear-view mirror

And the concealed display at the center console:
Mine - I used the ashtray for an Origin Blue i...



and have a Bel remote mounted above the mirror, similar to pnsji's, but higher up against the headlining.
I like the install of the blue eye guy . how are you finding it with the upgrading and its effectiveness etc.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">wow! Very nice install Guy! I like it!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

Thanks - I''l take the credit for the idea, but I got the guys who I know locally who were fitting Tracker for me, to fit both the Bel and OBi units.  
Highly recommended - Rockvale, Stockport. If anyone wants more info on them, send me a PM.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">how are you finding it with the upgrading and its effectiveness etc.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

It hasn't been perfect, it had to go back to them because of a fault; however, they sent me a new unit.
Its VERY effective. If you go anywhere 'new', to have a warning for the fixed cameras in an area you don't know is very reassuring. The radar operated Gatsos will set off the BEL, but SPECS cameras don't. They are easy to spot during the day, because of the gantry/fancy ironwork, but at night - you have to know they are there.
You can connect via the modem provided to update - dead simple - then plug it back into the car.
Now I've had it for a while, I wouldn't be without it.
If you're thinking of investing, check out the new Road Angel on the speedtraps site - it may be even better!

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