Flashing dash r129

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RichWeath

Active Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2010
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84
Hello everyone,

Looking for some advice on an issue please. Have tried searching but haven't found a similar post.

Recently I was driving the car home in the dark listening to the radio enjoying life, and then....

Radio off, all instruments on dash stop working, all lights at bottom of instrument panel start flashing.
(have since noticed the lights stop flashing when door is opened)

I managed to get home, about 4 miles from where it happened, so doesn't seem to be affecting the car mechanically, however can't drive it as don't know what speed or how much fuel I have.

2 days I went to start the car and battery was a little flat so trickle charged over night and started the following afternoon, so maybe a battery issue, though not sure why it would specifically target the radio and dash.

I have checked all fuses and none have blown.

Thanks in advance
 
Sound like battery/battery connection issue to me. I just spent a while sorting a very similar issue on a friends Giulia....that was a bad ground between the battery neg terminal and the body. Took me ages to sus!

You cant upload videos direct to this site AFAIK.....load it up to YouTube and then post the link,
 
Sound like battery/battery connection issue to me. I just spent a while sorting a very similar issue on a friends Giulia....that was a bad ground between the battery neg terminal and the body. Took me ages to sus!

You cant upload videos direct to this site AFAIK.....load it up to YouTube and then post the link,
Thanks, have uploaded to YouTube

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It sounds like either your battery is on its way or the alternator is. Charge the battery fully and then have it load tested. You can check the alternator with a multimeter to see if it's charging
 
Is the OVP relay or N? ( N2 perhaps, but could be any number) relay common to both items. Perhaps a blown capacitor in the binnacle ( dash flash as is called) causing a high current shutting down the relay. 🍷hope it makes sense …
 
It sounds like either your battery is on its way or the alternator is. Charge the battery fully and then have it load tested. You can check the alternator with a multimeter to see if it's charging
I'm a little dumb with cars, how would I do this?
 
Is the OVP relay or N? ( N2 perhaps, but could be any number) relay common to both items. Perhaps a blown capacitor in the binnacle ( dash flash as is called) causing a high current shutting down the relay. 🍷hope it makes sense …
Haha I thank you for your response, but I may need this dumbed down a little 🤔😊
 
I'm a little dumb with cars, how would I do this?
Put a multimeter across the battery terminals while set to voltage. While the car is running, It should read over 13v, probably closer or over 14v if the alternator is functioning correctly. If you don't see a change in voltage (in the up direction) after starting the car, there's a problem.
 
Put a multimeter across the battery terminals while set to voltage. While the car is running, It should read over 13v, probably closer or over 14v if the alternator is functioning correctly. If you don't see a change in voltage (in the up direction) after starting the car, there's a problem.
So I have done this with my charger as has a voltage display.
Engine off, battery voltage is 12.6v, with engine on it goes to 14.2v.

What I find odd is that the lights only go mad when the drivers door is shut, but turn off when door is open.
The dials don't work either way
 
....broken wires causing shorts where the wires go through the rubber boot from the body to the door?
 
So I have done this with my charger as has a voltage display.
Engine off, battery voltage is 12.6v, with engine on it goes to 14.2v.

12.6V isn't great if that's straight off the charger ... for a fully charged battery you'd normally see >13V, eventually dropping to 12.7V.

What I find odd is that the lights only go mad when the drivers door is shut, but turn off when door is open.
The dials don't work either way

As suggested see if you can access the wiring going to the door and visually check the state of the insulation. If your car was built between '92 and '96 it would have left the factory with wiring looms made with 'environmentally friendly' cable. Unfortunately the biodegradable insulation on this breaks down over time and starts to disintegrate, causing intermittent shorts to occur. The process is accelerated by heat so happens first in the engine compartment, but potentially all wiring in the car could eventually be affected. Most would have needed a new engine loom by now, but I don't know how standard it would have been to replace anything else (which would probably still have been fine at the time).
 
12.6V isn't great if that's straight off the charger ... for a fully charged battery you'd normally see >13V, eventually dropping to 12.7V.



As suggested see if you can access the wiring going to the door and visually check the state of the insulation. If your car was built between '92 and '96 it would have left the factory with wiring looms made with 'environmentally friendly' cable. Unfortunately the biodegradable insulation on this breaks down over time and starts to disintegrate, causing intermittent shorts to occur. The process is accelerated by heat so happens first in the engine compartment, but potentially all wiring in the car could eventually be affected. Most would have needed a new engine loom by now, but I don't know how standard it would have been to replace anything else (which would probably still have been fine at the time).
The charger wasn't turned on at this time, just reading the battery power.

I have also checked where the wires come from door to car and all seems protected bt the robber sleeve, though admittedly haven't stripped the door to check as light is fading here and don't want to start what I can't finish.
Is the battery clamped on tight?
I have tightened up the clamps as much as I can, no difference.

I think tonight I shall take battery out and use the standard charge setting on my charger and not just trickle, see if that gives a better voltage when charged.
 
Make sure both cables are clean and the negative cable terminates cleanly to the body.
 
If all is well with the charging system, then likely an issue with drying out capacitors on the instrument cluster. Quite a common issue.
 
@BTB 500

12.6v is actually fully charged (a little more if its AGM).....anything more than that and you have probably just not allowed enough time for the battery to settle after switching of the engine.
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state-of-charge-chart-for-agm-battery.png
 
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Is this an easy fix? is it a case of just waiting?
We usually send them off to ecu repair places, but there are some guides online. Eventually it will stop all together. First sign is one or two flashes a when you turn lights on or indicate.
 

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