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- Joined
- Jan 21, 2005
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- Mittel England
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- Smart ForFour AMG Black Series Night Edition Premium Plus 125 Powered by Brabus
If they are fixed calipers (4-pot Brembo) then they're a doddle to change. This shows the process perfectly: http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads
I actually followed this guide to change the pads on my W163 ML270CDi - it's the same as the W124 E-Class that the guide was written for. Wouldn't be surprised if it applies to your car too.
I bought some Textar (MB OE supplier) pads from http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ - very good service and approx half price MB dealer charged for parts.
HTH
I actually followed this guide to change the pads on my W163 ML270CDi - it's the same as the W124 E-Class that the guide was written for. Wouldn't be surprised if it applies to your car too.
I bought some Textar (MB OE supplier) pads from http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ - very good service and approx half price MB dealer charged for parts.
HTH
Yea, Thanks but I took a look and the pads seem sto be held in by a large
spring clip. I couldn't see a pad on the other side of the disk but I suppose it must be there somewhere. Can't see how the other pad can be removed.
Do you know what the other type of pads (the ones I've got) are called
Thanks
spring clip. I couldn't see a pad on the other side of the disk but I suppose it must be there somewhere. Can't see how the other pad can be removed.
Do you know what the other type of pads (the ones I've got) are called
Thanks
andy_k
MB Enthusiast
you must have two pads - or the system won't work
I'd guess the same principles apply.
You will need to loosen/remove a large bolt on the rear of the caliper, swing the top section up and then the pads will be accessible
I'd offer my asistance but I've absolutely no idea where you live
Andy
I'd guess the same principles apply.
You will need to loosen/remove a large bolt on the rear of the caliper, swing the top section up and then the pads will be accessible
I'd offer my asistance but I've absolutely no idea where you live
Andy
andy_k
MB Enthusiast
as a rule the outer section of the caliper will pivot upwards. Behind the caliper you will find a couple of large ish (at a guess 17mm headed) bolts. You need to loosen the top one slightly and remove the bottom one - bear in mind this may need a bit of force as they are fixed with threadlock - so you should either replace them (recommended) or thoroughly clean them and reapply threadlock to them before reassembly.
After that the caliper assembly will pivot away from the disc and allow you access to the pads.
Reassembly is the reverse procedure and make sure the car is supported on axle stands and not just a jack as you may need to apply a fair bit of torque to the retaining bolts to remove them
HTH
Andy
After that the caliper assembly will pivot away from the disc and allow you access to the pads.
Reassembly is the reverse procedure and make sure the car is supported on axle stands and not just a jack as you may need to apply a fair bit of torque to the retaining bolts to remove them
HTH
Andy
jimmy
MB Enthusiast
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The big spring you refer to is the anti rattle spring, getting this spring back on is often the hardest part of the job!
As mentioned above, changing pads is fairly easy. The caliper is made from 2 main parts, the piston and body and the pad slider or retainer. The retainer is usually held on by 2 bolts, more often on MB they are allen or torx head bolts hidden behind a dust cap. Make sure you have a suitable allen socket, a simple allen key is not up to the job.
Use a wire brush to clean the sliders and apply a little copper grease to the edges of the pad backing plates (where they slide) and the backs of the pads, remember just a little and dont get it on the fristion material or the discs.
If the warning light has come on you will need new wear sensors.
As mentioned above, changing pads is fairly easy. The caliper is made from 2 main parts, the piston and body and the pad slider or retainer. The retainer is usually held on by 2 bolts, more often on MB they are allen or torx head bolts hidden behind a dust cap. Make sure you have a suitable allen socket, a simple allen key is not up to the job.
Use a wire brush to clean the sliders and apply a little copper grease to the edges of the pad backing plates (where they slide) and the backs of the pads, remember just a little and dont get it on the fristion material or the discs.
If the warning light has come on you will need new wear sensors.
andy_k
MB Enthusiast
echo everything Jimmy has said and don't forget to wear some sort of breathing protector - brake dust isn't the best of stuff to be inhaling.
Andy
Andy
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If you have the Brembo fout-pot calipers, you don't need to remove the caliper itself.
You can tell if you have four-pot calipers by looking at the shape of the caliper. If when looking at it you can see what looks like two end-on cylinders then you have four-pots - the two you can see, with a piston in each - and another two on the other side of the caliper that you can't see.
Remember to open the brake fluid reservoir cap and syphon if necessary. Take care not to spill on paint. Also keep an eye on brake fluid to make sure it doesn't overflow as you fit each pad.
Remove the wheel. You use a pair of pliers to disconnect the wear sensor, before driving out two retaining pins using a hammer and punch (or screw driver if you don't have a punch. The spring clip can then be removed (falls out). Slip a screwdriver between the old pad and the disc, and push the pad away from the disc to make way for the new thicker pads, which you can drop in position after greasing the edges and shiny metal backing plate (don't over do it!!). Repeat for the second pad. Re-insert the pins, and position the spring clip as you go. Re-connect a new wear sensor. Check all is as you found it and re-fit your wheel.
Hope this helps.
You can tell if you have four-pot calipers by looking at the shape of the caliper. If when looking at it you can see what looks like two end-on cylinders then you have four-pots - the two you can see, with a piston in each - and another two on the other side of the caliper that you can't see.
Remember to open the brake fluid reservoir cap and syphon if necessary. Take care not to spill on paint. Also keep an eye on brake fluid to make sure it doesn't overflow as you fit each pad.
Remove the wheel. You use a pair of pliers to disconnect the wear sensor, before driving out two retaining pins using a hammer and punch (or screw driver if you don't have a punch. The spring clip can then be removed (falls out). Slip a screwdriver between the old pad and the disc, and push the pad away from the disc to make way for the new thicker pads, which you can drop in position after greasing the edges and shiny metal backing plate (don't over do it!!). Repeat for the second pad. Re-insert the pins, and position the spring clip as you go. Re-connect a new wear sensor. Check all is as you found it and re-fit your wheel.
Hope this helps.
jimmy
MB Enthusiast
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- Discovery 3 TDV6, Discovery 300TDi - Plaything!
It would not be four pot calipers, so you still need to remove the pad carrier or swing it up to get the pads out. I dont advise levering the pads against the disc to push the pistons back, its possible to chip the discs unless you are very very careful. Use a proper tool or G-clamp.
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