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frozen feet

Danny DeVito

Danny DeVito

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
886
Location
Ireland
Car
V220 CDI
:wallbash: :wallbash:

I completely blocked the pipe to the rad and still i get no heat and the temp doesn't go unless i rev for about ten mins. All pipes froze the other day and the temp went to 100, after thaw i got heat for five mins then the temp dropped back to nothing. I know the cdi often runs cold and they fitted the booster heater ( not working ) but some temp should happen. Anybody know any other way to make it heat ? Frozen toes will thank you. Car is v220 cdi 638 engine similar to vito 108. Thanks
 
Danny DeVito said:
:wallbash: :wallbash:

I completely blocked the pipe to the rad and still i get no heat and the temp doesn't go unless i rev for about ten mins. All pipes froze the other day and the temp went to 100, after thaw i got heat for five mins then the temp dropped back to nothing. I know the cdi often runs cold and they fitted the booster heater ( not working ) but some temp should happen. Anybody know any other way to make it heat ? Frozen toes will thank you. Car is v220 cdi 638 engine similar to vito 108. Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Danny Devito,

Running a frozen engine up to 100 deg.C, thats not very good practice. I would be more concerned what damage you may have done, for a start, you may very well have damaged the impeller on the water pump, no circulation there now I'm afraid. Also consider the head gasket.

The best thing you could do under the circumstances would be to drain the system down and thoroughly flush it out. Then fill with 50/50 antifreeze/water and run up to normal temp. You may also now require a new temp sensor anyway.

Trial and error now until you establish if you have actually done any serious damage.

Regards,

Dash1
 
Sorry i should have said i have no heat since i bought it about a year ago. The stat has been repaired and then the pipe blocked to eliminate leakage to the rad. And still it doesn't get hot. It also got a new water pump about two months ago. The booster heater when it worked ( a few weeks back) did give warm air into cab but little impact on the temp gauge. Any more ideas ?
 
Danny DeVito said:
Sorry i should have said i have no heat since i bought it about a year ago. The stat has been repaired and then the pipe blocked to eliminate leakage to the rad. And still it doesn't get hot. It also got a new water pump about two months ago. The booster heater when it worked ( a few weeks back) did give warm air into cab but little impact on the temp gauge. Any more ideas ?
Click to expand...


Lots, one step at a time. Do as I suggested first and lets establish the outcome from there.

Firstly, How can you repair a thermostat, do you actually mean you replaced it with a new one.

Secondly, What pipe was blocked off and for what reason, water needs to circulate to have any controlled effect on its heating principles, think central heating as similar to that in your home, close off the thermostat valve and the radiator goes cold, similar to what you have just implied.

We will sooon have those toes warm again if you follow whats being suggested.

Regards,

Dash1
 
All pipes freezing means you must have no antifreeze in the system. Not good:crazy:

A lack of heat would suggest airlocks in the heater matrix.
Do as Dash1 says and flush out the system and replace with a 50/50 mix.
 
Danny, i was just browsing the forums, i cant help on this unfortunately, but i have to post here telling you what an original well thought out user name you have!!

well done!

Ps..i agree with Stwat antifreeze, that would be a logical approach to thinking first i should think!
 
Dash1 said:
Firstly, How can you repair a thermostat, do you actually mean you replaced it with a new one.

Secondly, What pipe was blocked off and for what reason, water needs to circulate to have any controlled effect on its heating principles, think central heating as similar to that in your home, close off the thermostat valve and the radiator goes cold, similar to what you have just implied.
Click to expand...

I must say that freezing is of no concern i only mentioned it to demonstrate that the heat does come out when the temp gauge goes up. The system was flushed a few months back. If water doesn't circulate in a car then it will overheat very quickly which tells me that the water is moving along. I took out the stat to replace but found that someone had previously done this and not put the seal in, and so i made one. The stat tested ok. Still no heat so just in case i clamped the water out to the radiator so that it only goes around the block and should heat quickly. Still no heat. As for think central heating. the engine is like the boiler but if water does not pump in the boiler it quickly reaches shut off temp. The car with no circulation should overheat. So to finish. The matrix is ok because when the booster worked it gave out good heat . The pump must be working. When it froze it got hot. I have added more antifreeze too.

?????:dk:
 
The thermostat is the part which controls the running temperature of an engine- the temp is usually marked on the 'stat. 82 or 88 is the norm. When the thermostat is closed,it does not allow water to circulate round the radiator,so the temperature should rise quickly as there is nothing to cool the water except from the heater matrix.An engine running without cooling will boil eventually, so the thermostat opens at the specified temperature to allow circulation through the radiator and cool the engine. If there is no airflow through the radiator, the temperature will drop slightly when the 'stat opens,then continue to heat up until it reaches the temperature that the fan will cut in to provide a cooling airflow to the radiator. If your thermostat is working correctly, and the vehicle isn't moving then it will heat up- Diesels are far more thermally efficient than petrols and take longer to heat though. I'd try a genuine Merc thermostat refill the coolant with the correct stuff, then go from there. If your radiator is even slightly warm before your temp gauge is showing normal, then the thermostat is not functioning correctly.
 
Thanks Tiff but do you see where i clamped to pipe to the rad to eliminate the rad cooling and stat. Still it does not heat after 30 mins or more running/ driving.temp gauge doesn't move over 40 (bottom)
 
Can only be the thermostat- an engine cannot run that cool without cooling. Does it only have the 2 pies to the rad It may be circulating some through the expansion tank. Does the radiator get warm quickly?

Been here loads of times- first thing I make sure of on any car is a toasty heater and a decent radio. The matrix on my 190D was partially blocked and the heater was very poor. A good backflush and it was toasty.. its one on my missions in life, I hate being cold!
 
Tiff said:
Can only be the thermostat- an engine cannot run that cool without cooling. Does it only have the 2 pies to the rad It may be circulating some through the expansion tank. Does the radiator get warm quickly?

Been here loads of times- first thing I make sure of on any car is a toasty heater and a decent radio. The matrix on my 190D was partially blocked and the heater was very poor. A good backflush and it was toasty.. its one on my missions in life, I hate being cold!
Click to expand...

I never felt the rad but i will try it when i can (time is very very limited) I will try see exactly what hoses are there. U see when i bought it i assumed it was the stat so i bought a new one and when i tried to fit it, turned out to be the wrong one but i found that the stat had no seal. So i made a new one, tested the stat open close open etc. in water it was ok. So after that made no difference i clamped the pipe from that stat to the rad (top pipe). It still doesn't get hot. In the summer the temp might rise to 60oC. If the booster heater runs the air inside gets warm but even still the temp gauge only shows a little increase. The temp gauge must work because it showed high temp when frozen. So i am left with why doesn't the engine heat the water under normal conditions. I will check for other pipes to exp tank etc. soon thanks
 
I should say also that it's automatic so revs dont really get above 2500. High idle like 2 -3 thou warms it eventually
 
Are you certain the heater control is opening fully to allow full flow to the matrix? The cables can slip and not open the valves/flaps fully too. You'd still get some warm air, but maybe not as hot as it should be?
 
If your vito is a CDi, and after 2003, you cannot replace the thermostat on its own, it comes complete with the housing and temp sensor? Just checked the parts book. The 2.3 and 2.1 have a seperate thermostat.
 
2000 cdi. Digital temp setting so i'm not sure how it opens. But after it froze then defrosted for a few mins i had blasting heat inside before the temp returned to 40c. I've tried looking for a cooling system layout through wis but i can't find a pic either.
 
Danny DeVito said:
2000 cdi. Digital temp setting so i'm not sure how it opens. But after it froze then defrosted for a few mins i had blasting heat inside before the temp returned to 40c. I've tried looking for a cooling system layout through wis but i can't find a pic either.
Click to expand...

The thermostat is 87 degrees on the earlier ones. Did you check the opening temp when you checked it on the cooker? If it was frozen, it would have been restricting flow through the rad, as this is the most likely to freeze. If the block had frozen, you would have been popping core plugs and water pumps ...

Is there plenty air coming through the heater, pollen filter may be choked too..
 
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