Hi Guys,
Recently, mbclub member PenelopePitstop was looking to get her brand new C63 Coupe protected to give it the best possible start on the open roads. I am booked till mid may, but had booked the last three days out to get the work caddy ready for re sale. But if clients are in desperate need then my personal detailing has to wait. So I got the car in and started work on it on Monday this week. Now I’m a little out of touch with a poor quality treatments dealerships are offering nowadays, but I hear they can charge £500.00-£600.00. This is to show you my style of new car protection detail, to prove you get a lot more for you money, with the best protection in the world. Remember this is not a paint correction service as it’s a new car protection. I have completed many brand new cars that did need correction as much as a 10 year old car, but this was not needed. So here is a complete insight of the 'Gemclean Detailing' New Car Crystal Lacquer Protection Detail.
To start with the tyres and arches are treated to a pre spray of surfex HD, with the tyres agitated. This removes the dealership tyre dressing as well as any transportation wax within the arches. This is then rinsed at 50'c.
The wheels are then cleaned using bilberry wheel cleaner, agitated using a swissvax wheel brush and wheel woollies to get to the barrels & then rinsed @ 50'c:
The wheels are then treated with iron x to remove any chemical fallout and iron fillings. As you can see the cars only done 600 miles and it already has some build up. These are then agitated with a swissvax bush and wheel woollies & then rinsed off at 50’c.
This same process is repeated with the tailpipes.
The car was then treated to a snow foam bath using bilthammer auto foam, left to dwell for 10 minutes & rinsed off @ 50’c.
The car is then washed using the 2bm using Gtechniq G-Wash. The top half was washed using a carpro Marino mitt & the bottom half with the opti mitt. This is so I’m not cross contaminating mitts and transferring the dirt from the lower half up to the top half.
Once washed, the car was rinsed off @ 50’c and then treated to a chemical bath to remove iron fillings from the paint. As you can see the car is brand new but still has quite a bit within the lacquer. This was then re washed and rinsed @ 50’c.
The car was then finally rinsed using zero grade water to minimise drying and water marking.
The car was then taken inside the studio where it was dried using a 70/30 drying towel.
& the warm air blow dryer to remove all water from shuts gaps, traps, grilles & badges.
Once dry it was time to clay the car. For this I used Elite Car Care’s own brand of mild clay (as it’s the best clay I’ve ever used) and Maguire’s last touch for lubrication. This was the final decontamination stage to remove organic fallout such as pollen, tree sap and acid rain marks.
Once complete, all excess quick detailer was removed using a microfiber.
Then the car was given a full IPA wipe down. This is essential to my work, as it removes clay sling, old filler polishes & leaves a true paintwork finish with no masking defects. After inspection the paint had mild marring as shown.
So the car was machined using Gtechniq P2 hologram remover, Rupes yellow polishing pad all on the rupes Bigfoot.
Recently, mbclub member PenelopePitstop was looking to get her brand new C63 Coupe protected to give it the best possible start on the open roads. I am booked till mid may, but had booked the last three days out to get the work caddy ready for re sale. But if clients are in desperate need then my personal detailing has to wait. So I got the car in and started work on it on Monday this week. Now I’m a little out of touch with a poor quality treatments dealerships are offering nowadays, but I hear they can charge £500.00-£600.00. This is to show you my style of new car protection detail, to prove you get a lot more for you money, with the best protection in the world. Remember this is not a paint correction service as it’s a new car protection. I have completed many brand new cars that did need correction as much as a 10 year old car, but this was not needed. So here is a complete insight of the 'Gemclean Detailing' New Car Crystal Lacquer Protection Detail.
To start with the tyres and arches are treated to a pre spray of surfex HD, with the tyres agitated. This removes the dealership tyre dressing as well as any transportation wax within the arches. This is then rinsed at 50'c.
The wheels are then cleaned using bilberry wheel cleaner, agitated using a swissvax wheel brush and wheel woollies to get to the barrels & then rinsed @ 50'c:

The wheels are then treated with iron x to remove any chemical fallout and iron fillings. As you can see the cars only done 600 miles and it already has some build up. These are then agitated with a swissvax bush and wheel woollies & then rinsed off at 50’c.

This same process is repeated with the tailpipes.

The car was then treated to a snow foam bath using bilthammer auto foam, left to dwell for 10 minutes & rinsed off @ 50’c.


The car is then washed using the 2bm using Gtechniq G-Wash. The top half was washed using a carpro Marino mitt & the bottom half with the opti mitt. This is so I’m not cross contaminating mitts and transferring the dirt from the lower half up to the top half.


Once washed, the car was rinsed off @ 50’c and then treated to a chemical bath to remove iron fillings from the paint. As you can see the car is brand new but still has quite a bit within the lacquer. This was then re washed and rinsed @ 50’c.




The car was then finally rinsed using zero grade water to minimise drying and water marking.

The car was then taken inside the studio where it was dried using a 70/30 drying towel.

& the warm air blow dryer to remove all water from shuts gaps, traps, grilles & badges.



Once dry it was time to clay the car. For this I used Elite Car Care’s own brand of mild clay (as it’s the best clay I’ve ever used) and Maguire’s last touch for lubrication. This was the final decontamination stage to remove organic fallout such as pollen, tree sap and acid rain marks.

Once complete, all excess quick detailer was removed using a microfiber.

Then the car was given a full IPA wipe down. This is essential to my work, as it removes clay sling, old filler polishes & leaves a true paintwork finish with no masking defects. After inspection the paint had mild marring as shown.



So the car was machined using Gtechniq P2 hologram remover, Rupes yellow polishing pad all on the rupes Bigfoot.
