getting fed up now !!!

[STURMVOGEL]

Hi guys would love some help and advice please with my E300TD 1998.

1998 MERCEDES E300 TURBO DEISEL AUTO. ( W210 )
CHASSIS NUMBER : WDB2102252A741360
ENGINE NO : 60696222042199

FAULT

1. ABS LIGHT FROM START.
2. SRS LIGHT FROM START.
3. ESP LIGHT FROM START.
4. SOMETIMES DRIVES IN SECOND GEAR ONLY ( LIMP MODE ), NO SPEEDO.
5. NO CRUISE CONTROL.
6. VERY SLOW ACCELERATION AND 70 MPH MAX ON MOTORWAY.

WORK CARRIED OUT

1.CHANGED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
2. RECALIBRATED STEERING WHEEL ( FULL LEFT/FULL RIGHT A FEW TIMES )
3. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS REMOVED AND BLADES CLEANED
4.REPLACED MAAF SENSOR ( BOSCH ITEM )
5. REPLACED AIR FILTER ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
6. REPLACED GEARBOX ADAPTOR PLUG
7. GEARBOX OIL LEVEL CHECKED ( IN PARK WITH ENG RUNNING AFTER 20 MIN DRIVE )
8. RE-PROGRAMMED THE GEARBOX .
9. REPLACED BATTERY
10. VACUUME CHECKED THE EGR VALVE

CODES WITH HAND HELD SCANNER ( AUTEL)

P1221 - CAN RECEPTION FROM ASR/ESP/ETC
P1630 - DRIVE AUTHORISATION SIGNAL
P1615 - CONTROL MODULE SUPPLY VOLTAGE
P1481 - GLOW PLUG FAILURE
P1482 - GLOW OUTPUT STAGE N14/2
P1470 - INTAKE PRESSURE/ BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL
P0100 - MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR

SCANNER READS THESE CODES BUT IS UNABLE TO CLEAR THEM AND I SOMETIMES GET ‘UNABLE TO ESTABLISH CONNECTION WITH CAR’ SO NO REAL CONFIDENCE IN SCANNER

I think this all seems to point to a dodgy ABS wheel speed sensor, having read numerous threads about most of my symptoms, but would love some others perspective please.

Cheers guys

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Hi guys would love some help and advice please with my E300TD 1998.

1998 MERCEDES E300 TURBO DEISEL AUTO. ( W210 )
CHASSIS NUMBER : WDB2102252A741360
ENGINE NO : 60696222042199

FAULT

1. ABS LIGHT FROM START.
2. SRS LIGHT FROM START.
3. ESP LIGHT FROM START.
4. SOMETIMES DRIVES IN SECOND GEAR ONLY ( LIMP MODE ), NO SPEEDO.
5. NO CRUISE CONTROL.
6. VERY SLOW ACCELERATION AND 70 MPH MAX ON MOTORWAY.

WORK CARRIED OUT

1.CHANGED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
2. RECALIBRATED STEERING WHEEL ( FULL LEFT/FULL RIGHT A FEW TIMES )
3. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS REMOVED AND BLADES CLEANED
4.REPLACED MAAF SENSOR ( BOSCH ITEM )
5. REPLACED AIR FILTER ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
6. REPLACED GEARBOX ADAPTOR PLUG
7. GEARBOX OIL LEVEL CHECKED ( IN PARK WITH ENG RUNNING AFTER 20 MIN DRIVE )
8. RE-PROGRAMMED THE GEARBOX .
9. REPLACED BATTERY
10. VACUUME CHECKED THE EGR VALVE

CODES WITH HAND HELD SCANNER ( AUTEL)

P1221 - CAN RECEPTION FROM ASR/ESP/ETC
P1630 - DRIVE AUTHORISATION SIGNAL
P1615 - CONTROL MODULE SUPPLY VOLTAGE
P1481 - GLOW PLUG FAILURE
P1482 - GLOW OUTPUT STAGE N14/2
P1470 - INTAKE PRESSURE/ BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL
P0100 - MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR

SCANNER READS THESE CODES BUT IS UNABLE TO CLEAR THEM AND I SOMETIMES GET ‘UNABLE TO ESTABLISH CONNECTION WITH CAR’ SO NO REAL CONFIDENCE IN SCANNER

I think this all seems to point to a dodgy ABS wheel speed sensor, having read numerous threads about most of my symptoms, but would love some others perspective please.

Cheers guys

Greetings
Well I can give you some pointers but first I have some questions to ask you.
1) What Autel scanner are you using, moreso so does it have live a data feature?

2) Do you understand what Can-Bus is and what is the voltage passing through these data wires?

3) Do you understand what is a gateway?

4) Do you have a DVOM available to read Ohms resistance and low voltages?

5)Can you read a wiring schematic?

6)Do you understand what are twisted pairs in electrical circuitry?

I don't want to do a total tutorial in this as it can get complicated but I can access the wiring schematic diagram for you and throw you some diagnostic ideas if it not over your head.

In the meantime can you check to see what bulbs are in the tail lamps and all the brake lights. Make sure they are to MB spec exactly and not mixed up like single contact with dual contact bulbs etc,..Also have you installed anything electrical like an add on accessory or new radio/cassette etc or GPS etc recently? Or ever for that matter since your ownership of this car?

Like might have you by coincidence caused this series of faults you are mentioning in your testimony?

The reason I ask is pertinent!
Since only last week we repaired a total chassis /body wiring harness on a 2006 Sprinter with basically the same faults as you have. Turned out the aftermarket installers of roof mounted A/C tapped into the KOEO ABS main power circuit. T'Was OK until an A/C component shorted down then it took out a pile of modules and wiring in the ABS and shifter .
Remember wiring is made with a hidden smoke component known only to us mechanics who screw up! AND the bigger the wires & voltage like 24v the more smoke it gives off sometimes !

In typical Brit MV workshop banter I learned as an apprentice don't ffs let the smoke out lad! There's a good gentl--man
Cheers Tuercas Viejas

 

[renault12ts]

You'll have a rusty abs ring on one or both sides at the rear.

You'll have a broken srs wire under the passenger seat.

 

[219]

Hi guys would love some help and advice please with my E300TD 1998.

1998 MERCEDES E300 TURBO DEISEL AUTO. ( W210 )
CHASSIS NUMBER : WDB2102252A741360
ENGINE NO : 60696222042199

FAULT

1. ABS LIGHT FROM START.
2. SRS LIGHT FROM START.
3. ESP LIGHT FROM START.
4. SOMETIMES DRIVES IN SECOND GEAR ONLY ( LIMP MODE ), NO SPEEDO.
5. NO CRUISE CONTROL.
6. VERY SLOW ACCELERATION AND 70 MPH MAX ON MOTORWAY.

WORK CARRIED OUT

1.CHANGED BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
2. RECALIBRATED STEERING WHEEL ( FULL LEFT/FULL RIGHT A FEW TIMES )
3. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS REMOVED AND BLADES CLEANED
4.REPLACED MAAF SENSOR ( BOSCH ITEM )
5. REPLACED AIR FILTER ( GENUINE MERCEDES PART )
6. REPLACED GEARBOX ADAPTOR PLUG
7. GEARBOX OIL LEVEL CHECKED ( IN PARK WITH ENG RUNNING AFTER 20 MIN DRIVE )
8. RE-PROGRAMMED THE GEARBOX .
9. REPLACED BATTERY
10. VACUUME CHECKED THE EGR VALVE

CODES WITH HAND HELD SCANNER ( AUTEL)

P1221 - CAN RECEPTION FROM ASR/ESP/ETC
P1630 - DRIVE AUTHORISATION SIGNAL
P1615 - CONTROL MODULE SUPPLY VOLTAGE
P1481 - GLOW PLUG FAILURE
P1482 - GLOW OUTPUT STAGE N14/2
P1470 - INTAKE PRESSURE/ BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL
P0100 - MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR

SCANNER READS THESE CODES BUT IS UNABLE TO CLEAR THEM AND I SOMETIMES GET ‘UNABLE TO ESTABLISH CONNECTION WITH CAR’ SO NO REAL CONFIDENCE IN SCANNER

I think this all seems to point to a dodgy ABS wheel speed sensor, having read numerous threads about most of my symptoms, but would love some others perspective please.

Cheers guys

A dodgy wheel sensor wouldn't cause ABS light from start - it only produces a signal once car starts moving , and then only triggers the warning lamp ( and disables ABS ) above a certain speed . With a faulty speed sensor or rusty reluctor ring , the system will reset on restart and again repeat after travelling a short distance and attaining the critical speed . My 190E , which I'm recommissioning after a two year lay up is currently doing this . The fault is clearly related to one of the front wheel sensors / hub splines but cleaning / derusting with wire brush / blowing through with compressed air only made a temporary fix , or at least the fault now only comes on above 55 mph - so will need to be revisited . Thankfully , it's only costing me time and effort at present .

The ESP and cruise faults will most likely be related . The SRS fault may , or may not , be related .

These symptoms can be related to system voltage and caused by a faulty OVP relay - I'd strongly suspect this item as it can cause all sorts of faults . If you are handy with a soldering iron , open up the OVP and resolder the circuit board - a dry joint is a likely culprit .

The above are just observations and further diagnosis would be needed to confirm .

You can end up throwing money at faults , and without proper diagnosis , throwing money away needlessly .

 

[STURMVOGEL]

You'll have a rusty abs ring on one or both sides at the rear.

You'll have a broken srs wire under the passenger seat.

Thanks for your reply mate, the abs rings I will get round to when I get back to the UK(in France at the mo ) as for the broken sis wire, thanks for that tip I will take a look.

All the best
Sturm

 

[STURMVOGEL]

doh !

 

[STURMVOGEL]

Greetings
Well I can give you some pointers but first I have some questions to ask you.
1) What Autel scanner are you using, moreso so does it have live a data feature?

2) Do you understand what Can-Bus is and what is the voltage passing through these data wires?

3) Do you understand what is a gateway?

4) Do you have a DVOM available to read Ohms resistance and low voltages?

5)Can you read a wiring schematic?

6)Do you understand what are twisted pairs in electrical circuitry?

I don't want to do a total tutorial in this as it can get complicated but I can access the wiring schematic diagram for you and throw you some diagnostic ideas if it not over your head.

In the meantime can you check to see what bulbs are in the tail lamps and all the brake lights. Make sure they are to MB spec exactly and not mixed up like single contact with dual contact bulbs etc,..Also have you installed anything electrical like an add on accessory or new radio/cassette etc or GPS etc recently? Or ever for that matter since your ownership of this car?

Like might have you by coincidence caused this series of faults you are mentioning in your testimony?

The reason I ask is pertinent!
Since only last week we repaired a total chassis /body wiring harness on a 2006 Sprinter with basically the same faults as you have. Turned out the aftermarket installers of roof mounted A/C tapped into the KOEO ABS main power circuit. T'Was OK until an A/C component shorted down then it took out a pile of modules and wiring in the ABS and shifter .
Remember wiring is made with a hidden smoke component known only to us mechanics who screw up! AND the bigger the wires & voltage like 24v the more smoke it gives off sometimes !

In typical Brit MV workshop banter I learned as an apprentice don't ffs let the smoke out lad! There's a good gentl--man
Cheers Tuercas Viejas

Gosh thats a lot to think about !!!!!
Right the tester is an Autel Maxidiag pro MD801 and does have a live data function.
I do not know what can-bus is and no idea about the voltage
I do not know what a gateway is.
I do not have access to a DVM at the moment.
I have a fair amount of ability to read circuit diagrams
I do not understand twisted pairs.

I have not installed anything electrical to the car at all during my ownership ( 4 months )
I will have a look at the bulbs when I can and report back.

Thanks very much for the reply and sorry about the answers to your questions !!!

 

[STURMVOGEL]

A dodgy wheel sensor wouldn't cause ABS light from start - it only produces a signal once car starts moving , and then only triggers the warning lamp ( and disables ABS ) above a certain speed . With a faulty speed sensor or rusty reluctor ring , the system will reset on restart and again repeat after travelling a short distance and attaining the critical speed . My 190E , which I'm recommissioning after a two year lay up is currently doing this . The fault is clearly related to one of the front wheel sensors / hub splines but cleaning / derusting with wire brush / blowing through with compressed air only made a temporary fix , or at least the fault now only comes on above 55 mph - so will need to be revisited . Thankfully , it's only costing me time and effort at present .

The ESP and cruise faults will most likely be related . The SRS fault may , or may not , be related .

These symptoms can be related to system voltage and caused by a faulty OVP relay - I'd strongly suspect this item as it can cause all sorts of faults . If you are handy with a soldering iron , open up the OVP and resolder the circuit board - a dry joint is a likely culprit .

The above are just observations and further diagnosis would be needed to confirm .

You can end up throwing money at faults , and without proper diagnosis , throwing money away needlessly .

Thanks for your reply mate, I appreciate it. I will check out the OVP relay soon as I can, but i strongly suspect I will have to wait until I drive back to the Uk and get a star reading done cos, yes, you are right, its better than trying things willy nilly !!

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Gosh thats a lot to think about !!!!!
Right the tester is an Autel Maxidiag pro MD801 and does have a live data function.
I do not know what can-bus is and no idea about the voltage
I do not know what a gateway is.
I do not have access to a DVM at the moment.
I have a fair amount of ability to read circuit diagrams
I do not understand twisted pairs.

I have not installed anything electrical to the car at all during my ownership ( 4 months )
I will have a look at the bulbs when I can and report back.

Thanks very much for the reply and sorry about the answers to your questions !!!

OK
To be brief yet concise each module has a common positive and negative interconnection and they are all on a common loop of #18 gauge wires. These wires are polarity conscious and carry communication around the car .
Hence the word Can -Bus i.e Controller network
Here is reference on page 43 by Snap on..
https://www1.snapon.com/Files/Diagn...leCommunicationSoftwareManual_EAZ0025B41C.pdf

This is akin to a kids oval railway circuit with a toy train going around it visiting all the stations (modules) as it does its circuit run. Each module sees the carriages ("data") but only one will communicate with that individual module.
This track is conducted by two wires usually one is green the other is green with a white trace in MB's.
These wires are easily visible because they are twisted or braided together like young girls platted hair --hence the word twisted pairs .
Why twisted?
Its an old fashioned way of reducing electrical scatter and bad cluttered communication. The German car industry loves doing that way--the Angle American alternative is to screen the wires with silver sleeve sheathing.
In your car the COMMUNICATION voltage MUST be a constant 2.5 volts.

So before you start checking for faults lets start at the start and verify what is the battery voltage of the car and is it charging properly and are all the earth (ground) points good!
You must have about 12.3 to 12.7 volts at the battery and fuse box input when you switch on (KOEO) and at least 13.3 volts if you start the car and let it run at fast idle . (KOER).
Do you follow this so far and do you want me to carry on?
Cheers
Tuercas Viejas

 

[toolman1954]

Hi.
The acronyms were new to me :-
KOEO ....Key On Engine On
KOER ....Key On Engine Running
.....so something learned already.

Tuercas Viejas .... If you have the time, then do please continue with your narrative.
I, for one, am always happy to read about diagnostic solutions for electrical problems.
You seem to have a wealth of knowledge on many matters, which can only benefit this forum as a whole.
Thank You ...Steve

 

[grober]

https://www.mbca.org/star-article/september-october-2012/modern-tech-concerning-can-bus

The 230 CAN bus and how to test | Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Hi.
The acronyms were new to me :-
KOEO ....Key On Engine On
KOER ....Key On Engine Running
.....so something learned already.

Tuercas Viejas .... If you have the time, then do please continue with your narrative.
I, for one, am always happy to read about diagnostic solutions for electrical problems.
You seem to have a wealth of knowledge on many matters, which can only benefit this forum as a whole.
Thank You ...Steve

Steve
Thanks for the kind words.
As a preamble I have been repairing cars since I was 9 years old in Gloucester at my late dad's ratty old shop that was under some railways arches turned into lock up shops. No can-bus problems in those days just petrol rationing!
Nowadays 60 odd years on I am still doing it!
This time I have my own 8 bay shop Independent business fixing complex stuff just like this problem but I have a bunch of younger guys who are trained automotive techs who do a lot of this type of work.
This issue can get involved and its not for the feint hearted and I have to give special thanks to Grober who chimed in with an MB article which saves a lot of the description!
That would have given me write's cramp so to speak!

First of all I think the OP has three distinct separate problems he is dealing with here. The can-bus issue is the most serious one because it is affecting driveability and made worse because a scan tool (any scan tool) cannot communicate correctly to assist in the diagnosis and interrogation of the other two possible problems.

The car is a 1998 MB and from experience the wiring is getting old and can often be affected by deterioration, element ingress causing corrosion/ resistances on the 2.5 volt Can Bus system not to mention rodent attack when cars are laid up for longer periods like holiday & second home lay-ups.

The use of twisted pairs is the first concern! With driving use the wiring harness has flexed umpteen times and the wiring itself has rubbed against itself so many cycle times that it often wears through a +ve and -ve and creates a short own in our imaginary railway can bus track so communication is interrupted. Info is de-railed!
Since the issue is affecting the ESP and ABS systems the first line of attack is to see what is going on at the ABS "brick" and it's communication socket.
Has the element got into it??

I will pull up a schematic today and see where the Can Bus starts at the Gateway and runs through the car.
By the way we have two Sprinter vans in the shop with the very same problems so its not unusual. BUT can be a devilish fix at times !

Regards Dennis
aka Tuercas Viejas (old nuts)

By the way always recruiting highly skilled electrical automotive techs!
D








.

 

[STURMVOGEL]

Steve
Thanks for the kind words.
As a preamble I have been repairing cars since I was 9 years old in Gloucester at my late dad's ratty old shop that was under some railways arches turned into lock up shops. No can-bus problems in those days just petrol rationing!
Nowadays 60 odd years on I am still doing it!
This time I have my own 8 bay shop Independent business fixing complex stuff just like this problem but I have a bunch of younger guys who are trained automotive techs who do a lot of this type of work.
This issue can get involved and its not for the feint hearted and I have to give special thanks to Grober who chimed in with an MB article which saves a lot of the description!
That would have given me write's cramp so to speak!

First of all I think the OP has three distinct separate problems he is dealing with here. The can-bus issue is the most serious one because it is affecting driveability and made worse because a scan tool (any scan tool) cannot communicate correctly to assist in the diagnosis and interrogation of the other two possible problems.

The car is a 1998 MB and from experience the wiring is getting old and can often be affected by deterioration, element ingress causing corrosion/ resistances on the 2.5 volt Can Bus system not to mention rodent attack when cars are laid up for longer periods like holiday & second home lay-ups.

The use of twisted pairs is the first concern! With driving use the wiring harness has flexed umpteen times and the wiring itself has rubbed against itself so many cycle times that it often wears through a +ve and -ve and creates a short own in our imaginary railway can bus track so communication is interrupted. Info is de-railed!
Since the issue is affecting the ESP and ABS systems the first line of attack is to see what is going on at the ABS "brick" and it's communication socket.
Has the element got into it??

I will pull up a schematic today and see where the Can Bus starts at the Gateway and runs through the car.
By the way we have two Sprinter vans in the shop with the very same problems so its not unusual. BUT can be a devilish fix at times !

Regards Dennis
aka Tuercas Viejas (old nuts)

By the way always recruiting highly skilled electrical automotive techs!
D









Hi Dennis, thanks very much for all the time and effort you have put in to helping me, I really appreciate it. My problem at the moment is I am working abroad on the Swiss/French border and living in a Hotel out of a suitcase as such and away from my garage and tools and equipment, so I am quite hampered in dealing with this problem. I am going to have to wait until the contract ends so I can get home and work from the comfort of my garage with all its equipment.

I have however, learned a lot about the electrical Can-Bus system on my car thanks to your advice. I thought my main problem was with the physical components in the car but if I have understood you correctly even if I managed to organise an independent code reading this would not help as the first problem lies with the communication system (Can-Bus ) that a code reader would need to utilise in order to diagnose where the physical problems lie. Until I can start checking the voltages at various Gateways to find out where the Can-Bus system is going down, then anything else would be a pure guess and probably very expensive as well.
So far I have tried to replace cheap components such as the brake switch, gearbox adaptor plug etc with the most expensive being the MAAF Sensor at £80, in an attempt to fix things so I am not too much out of pocket yet. The car only cost me £900 to start with so I will have to face a decision when I get back as to how much more time and effort I want to put into it !!

I do have a 190E at home as well which is in good nick and is my pride and joy but was not big enough to transport my tools around Europe. I did it the first time and the poor old thing was on the rubbers at the back end and the roads in Belgium and Luxembourg are really crap which is why I bought the E300TD which is a completely different beast, but I like it too !!!!
Anyway mate enough of my dribble for now, just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for all your help, your reward shall be in Heaven !!!!!
Cheers mate.
Trevor

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Trevor.
Honestly of all the electrical issues we fix on cars, MB's exhibit the worst when it comes to non pattern failures .Sometime just ad-hoc why did this happen?

I can cite an example yesterday with a 2003 Sprinter which has basically the same set up as your car. Even the same symptoms, affecting a string of relays and modules .
To illustrate a fix, we first checked for battery voltage at the fuse box. Input was good except for one fuse was a little on the dark side!--closer examination showed it had got hot, but not blown.

We ohmed out circuits and got for the most part 0.02 ohms resistance in the harness spurs /legs! Except for the fused circuit that had got hot!!! 180 ohms.:fail
It was feeding the shifter unit that also intercommunicated with the ABS module(brick) and several other relays including the TCM module. Actual feed voltage was measured at only 6.2 volts. Bingo found it!

To fix it simply installed an overlay and take out the offending high resistance section.'
That was an 8 hours job billed to the job card.

As I mentioned last week we did one again with no shift or communication in the van. It turned out the be a short down in the whole can-bus system due to the rubbing together of those damn twisted pairs. Faced with no main harness available (obsolete from the fatherland even) we simply had to repair the thing. A 20 hours slog cannibalizing sections of harness torn out from a similar wrecked van.

I suppose the secret to all this is patience and perseverance and having a methodical approach to the job. Critical thinking a must plus having a set of wiring diagrams (schematics) showing not only the can-bus system but the whole blessed layout .

I will leave you with a douzey!
A 2004 BMW X5--shutting down with an ABS/Transmission fault on the road at 60 mph. That was traced after 22 hours labor to a small rub through on the can-bus in the harness near the ABS brick sitting in the engine compartment. I would have missed it with my tired eyes but one of my techs had eyes like a bloody hawk--Bingo ! Found it & 0.5 hours of soldering and heat shrink & it was good as new!.
Speaking to a friend who is a tech at the local yokel BMW agent he quipped Oh that problem is well known! --Oh a pattern failure then? Did you find where it was?
Yes at the harness right by the ABS brick!
Good to know but we just bung in a new harness anyway!
Yikes how much is that?? $8500!! Parts are $5500 for the harness & the rest is labour!

And i worried about charging her $2500!!! I"ll get my hat & coat! Crikey
Talk about Kah-ching Khah-ching !
Some of this stuff you need to have a Penelope Keith with a Parker pen as a misses.
Remember this [priceless)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPaVoupc8yU

or this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERU0mZiQbqQ
Can't help it! Its the bit of Irish in me

Stay in touch
Dennis
aka T/V
lindenengineering.com or PM me!
.

 

[STURMVOGEL]

Cheers Dennis, I am now a lot more knowledgeable about my car than this time last week, got circuit diagrams and will purchase a DVM this weekend and start a slow methodical search for the problem. The car runs and gets me to work which is the main thing so the income keeps coming in. Thing is I normally like to go away at the weekends to the Black Forest or the Alps which are both only an hour away but with this problem I don't feel confident enough to take it far so its cramping my style so to speak !!!

When, ( notice I said "when" and not "if"!!!) I do find the problem I will PM you to let you know what I find.

All the best mate.
Trevor

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Trevor no worries.
As for the hikes i can well imagine and remember!!!i

Having left the UK in the late 80's & 990's and started living in Venezuela, one of my passions was to hike and climb Mt Avila up from the Cota Mil in Altamira district of Caracas . All rain forest and so close to the city, it was very enjoyable to climb the steep tracks in the very early morning just as the sun was about to rise . The vapour clouds rising off the trees and the monkeys howling at you as you trespassed through their jungle patches.
Venezuela the land of eternal springtime!
My two eldest kids were born there at Altamira Clinic.

Here take a look at the city before it all went to hell!
I still have a large mothballed workshop there fixing (was) trucks and buses.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_aLwmQJOpc

All the best and stay in touch as you have a go at the Benz !
Dennis
Tuercas viejas