glaze

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kusanku

Active Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
604
Location
Swansea
Car
A180cdi Avant Garde
Does anyone here use a glaze as part of their detailing process? Does it make a difference? If so, which one do you use?

Not used one myself, but curious to see if it might make a difference to some of the swirls on my paintwork that I can't seem to polish off?
 
I always use glaze. Glaze however will do nothing for your swirls. If you are working by hand and not machine then get something like Autoglym Paint Renovator and try to remove the swirls with that. Once you are happy move to a polish with fillers in it like Dodo Juice Lime Prime or Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Then apply the glaze - i'd recommend Clearkote Vanilla mouse on Silver and Poorboys Black Hole Glaze on dark colours. Then you will need to pop a layer of wax over all this to seal in your hard work.
 
I've used various as part of the process, generally after polishing. A glaze has fillers in it and will help reduce any small marks left over in the paint.

My process is to correct the paint finish as best as possible with your choice of compounds / polishes etc, then Glaze, then use a paint sealant, then top with a wax.

Have used the Clearkote Red moose good for obviously reds and the like, currently have Poorboys Black Hole glaze for dark colours and diamond white. The black hole certainly makes a big difference, the white is not so noticable, due to the lighter colour.

Worth a go IMO and you don't have to worry as they contain no abrasives
 
I sometimes use Poorboys Blackhole by machine which does help hide swirls, then seal with Blackfire which also has fillers and finally Wax with Dodo Purple Haze Pro.

Then I am knackered and leave it for a good 6 months before doing it again.

6775041501_74d8a339c8_b_d.jpg
 
Looks like Poorboys Blackhole it is then. I have Megs DA polisher, which I have used with Ultimate Compound. The results were OK, but not outstanding. Probably coming up to a year since I did the full process, so as soon as the weather improves a bit I'll spend a weekend going over it.
 
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I sometimes use Poorboys Blackhole by machine which does help hide swirls, then seal with Blackfire which also has fillers and finally Wax with Dodo Purple Haze Pro.

Then I am knackered and leave it for a good 6 months before doing it again.

6775041501_74d8a339c8_b_d.jpg


I've just dribbled.... :rolleyes: wow thats nice
 
Just visit your local paintshop refinishers suppliers and buy whatever they have in stock. 99% of the finish of a car is labour, 1% is product.
 
Yes, but quality products make the job a lot easier, faster and safer.
 
Yes, but quality products make the job a lot easier, faster and safer.

Safer...?

So tennis elbow and sore finger muscles are now covered under "Detailing H&S Regulation" are they? :rolleyes:

Most expensive "Detailing" products are just the same as cheap ones, but are separate components and have additives like coconut oil to make them smell nice.

polish = abrasive
compound = more abrasive
wax = wax...either solid or with added silicone to make it slippery
sealer = acrylic sealer.

Large price tags and small pots do not make products actually better.

The power of marketing. ;)

A local refinishers suppliers will have quality products in stock at much cheaper prices than "branded" retail products.
Sometimes I use trade name products, sometimes 3M. I found Wilco solid furniture wax to be excellent for the wet look and protection, but hard work...:D :wallbash:
 
I agree that higher cost does not necessarily equal better product. Just look at some of the super expensive stuff that Zymol do: there is no way those products produce an effect to justify their price tags.
 
AG super resin then AG super gloss protection has worked for me for years, quick and easy, although if i do have time i have a cabinet full of megs stuff for the once a year treatment :)
 
Safer...?

So tennis elbow and sore finger muscles are now covered under "Detailing H&S Regulation" are they? :rolleyes:

Most expensive "Detailing" products are just the same as cheap ones, but are separate components and have additives like coconut oil to make them smell nice.

polish = abrasive
compound = more abrasive
wax = wax...either solid or with added silicone to make it slippery
sealer = acrylic sealer.

Large price tags and small pots do not make products actually better.

The power of marketing. ;)

A local refinishers suppliers will have quality products in stock at much cheaper prices than "branded" retail products.
Sometimes I use trade name products, sometimes 3M. I found Wilco solid furniture wax to be excellent for the wet look and protection, but hard work...:D :wallbash:


You are looking at the wrong picture. Lets take a look at the 3M compound 'fast cut plus'. This product isnt the oldest or the cheapest and widely regarded as a great product. If we place this into a novice hands with the required 3M pad, he will be covered in compound dust and no doubt down to bare metal. If I was to replace his product with a more up to date compound and pad combo. Such as scholl concepts S3 Gold edition, he would have no dust in his lungs and a much longer working time. Which means it would take him alot longer to strike through the paint and get to learn his technique. But yes products like glazes is down to what works for you, not how much money you spend. But then glazes and waxes are not products that give you a true finish. They are there to enhance the look of a car. Everyone knows a true paint corrected finish looks better with no glazes/fillers or wax over the top of them. Its all about making a better job with compounds that dont clog your lungs, have longer working times and are not temperature sensitive. Which may I add 3M compounds and polishes are. Ever tried fast cut plus in a cold garage on VAG paint? It will clog up on your paint if your technique isnt done to a tee. If you feel digging your garden up with a plastic spade is better then enjoy. If you want to do a good job and make it easier on yourself go for jcb;)
 
You are trying to confuse the issue.

Why would anyone use a "fast cutting compound" instead of a glaze?

If the O/p wants to use a glaze, buy a glaze, but don't go for an expensive "branded" one in 250ml bottle, buy a cheaper one in a 1lt bottle.
 
Because I was originally saying over all , quality products are better for obvious reasons. You brought up that 3m are easy to use and stated all detailing products are just as good as cheaper paintshop refinishing products. My answer was to you as your comment is not entirely true.

But if you want a cheap glaze to fill all the imperfections but 1 litre SRP. Great for hiding imperfections, but remember they will be back.
 
I agree that some products are over priced. However to say that they are all the same is (in my opinion) very misleading. Try a few different products and you'll see the difference yourself. It's like saying cars are transport - they're all the same- why drive a Mercedes when you could get a Lada?
To the op, try One of the hybrid wax/sealants like Dodo's Supernatural Hybrid or Autoglym's Hd wax. Both give a fantastic finish and durability. And as a bonus, are very easy to use.
 
Thanks chaps. I think I have the answer to my original question about using a glaze, which is give it a try and see if it makes a difference.

Just to add another element to the discussion about buying larger quantities of product, do they not degrade/separate if kept for too long? In the past, I have purchased larger quantities under the impression that I was stocking up for the future, only to find that they were no longer usable after a while.
 

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