GLC exterior handle LED light colour

[k992061]

Hi all, OCD probably kicking in but i have noticed that the LED for my exterior driver door handle is a cold white while the other 3 are all warm white. Is this normal on a 2016 GLC AMG line? My thinking is that it might have been changed and they used the wrong replacement?

 

[Larkone]

Probably so you know which is the drivers door

 

[CaptainChaos]

I wouldn't worry. It will fail soon anyway.

 

[TonylUK]

lol I'll check mine tonight, see if I have the same

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[Gallon]

LED's degrade over time, the drivers door one has probably been replaced & therefore newer. When the bulbs get near end of life they turn purplish.
AFAIK Mercedes only use one type of LED for the door handles.

 

[TonylUK]

Here's mine

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[Srdl]

Looked at mine tonight and all “cold white”

 

[Abbz]

I've noticed tonight my passenger front door has stopped working. Is it a easy fix to replace or garage job

 

[rf065]

It's a pain to do unless you enjoy working on cars and are reasonably good at it. And once you've fixed it, one of the others will go.
I've had all 6 replaced on mine, doors and mirrors.

 

[Abbz]

I have been told elsewhere that warranty should cover it ?

 

[rf065]

I have been told elsewhere that warranty should cover it ?

If you have one, yes.

 

[Farmer boy]

Just replaced rear right door light that was out having been replaced 2 years ago under warranty. I have orders a “bulb” for the left rear as it’s a dim purplish colour a sign that’s it’s failing. I bought my bulb on EBay from Mercedes Newcastle £17.10 posted. Right side bulbs are the same front and rear code: A 099 890 02 83 for the left the code is: A 099 820 02 83.
It took me 45 minutes to do the swap so any garage chafing between £75_ £90 is a fair price. To do the job at home you need a torax 20 and 25 screwdriver the T 20 is only used for the door and needs to be about 10-15cm long. The door card has to come off there are plenty of videos on line for this. Next the door handle is removed again plenty of videos. The third stage is Remove the rear door module, which is basically everything inside the door. The prices involves removing a rubber inspection bung in the door and by using the drivers side switch lower the window about 15cm until a white carrier and screw can be seen. Slacken the screw to release window and pull the glass to the top and hold in place with strong tape over the top of the frame. The next stage is to remove the 2 bolts by the door lock and the 12 bolts around the door. I have read about drilling out rivets DO NOT do this. The rivet thing comes into play if the bolts had been stripped of their thread on previous strip down. The two in the middle hold the window mechanism and do not concern us on this job. Next step is to wriggle the black mount away from the door. I found I
Needed to push the door latch with a screwdriver to get it to slide out. With the two screws on the outside of the door handle loose the handle mount will also come away. In the mount you will see the lamp
Holder, remove the wire connector and push back two tags.
Refitting is a fiddle but take it steady and all goes back well things to look out for on refit: untape the glass and push it down into its carrier The screw should be tightened till there is light pressure the correct torque for this is: 6Nm remember it’s onto glass. I had to slacken the carrier and jiggle the Glas till it slipped back into its holder. You can use the drivers switch to test all is ok.
Rotherham connections are just a simple reverse of procedure. Do not forget the green cable to the inside door pull. And if like me when you rest the door from inside the the door pull does not work check that the child lock tab was not moved I had not checked this and on testing I thought I had forgotten the handle wire.
When putting the door card back on make sure the window is fully down and the sealing strip is correctly seated. Offer the card up from the top at about 45 degree angle to aloe the tabs to go into place, slot the window button in place then lower the card against the door and tap it home. Two screws back into armrest and it’s done.
To test you work cover the windscreen sensor lock then unlock.
Hope this helps. I am sure some one will be able to identify steps to explain this more clearly. If there are errors in what I have outlined please post amendments after all the forum is about sharing help and advice.

 

[Farmer boy]

 

[Farmer boy]

 

[Farmer boy]

 

[Farmer boy]

First picture shows the two screws to slacken when outer door handle removed. the frame to the right shows the 3 bolts holding the internal catch.
The next post shows the rubber bung that is removed to see the window holder, the smaller picture shows the white clamp. DO NOT FULLY UNSCREW on strip down or over tighten on refit.
The next post shows the 12 T25 bolts
My last picture shows the lamp fitting.

 

[Farmer boy]

Just read my post — predictive text and sausage fingers on my iPhone sorry but I hope you get the gist of it.

 

[Rory]

Blimey, this is all a right faff. No wonder leasing for 2/3yrs is becoming more popular.

 

[Farmer boy]

Went out last night all lights working but on my return journey the purple rear left handle light stopped working. Another strip down required what a faff indeed. At least I can keep costs down to £17.10.

 

[Farmer boy]

Just spotted an error in my post regarding the LED order codes. Left code is:
A 099 820 01 83.
Right hand side is:
A 099 820 02 83

I see the LED that arrived today is revision 13 the only visible change is the LED and it’s mounting post are covered in a clear potting lacquer. It could be moisture causing the premature failure.