Got my camshaft adjuster plates 😀 from 63motorsport

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Not an overkill, that is spot on in my book, especially if you can do the oil and fluid changes yourself can save on labour. Where do you get your oil from? I use Petronas Syntium from GSF Car Parts.

Yes I do the oil and coolant changes myself. Then have an intermittent service with invoice and paper history. But also log my own work. I changed the coolant last about 16 months ago when I replaced a new thermostat and top hose. I change the oil around the 5k mark filters and so on. The Indy who done my adjusters change the oil 2.5,k ago so I'm all good to go for a while yet. I use the MB oil 5w40 and have done since I have owned the car. I find my engine seems to like it over the mobile 1 0w40. And MB have good deals on the 5w40 most of the time.
 
Yeah I can see your point on the oil cooler, although it's still nearly a litre of oil. But I'll definitely be aware of what you advise 👍.

The drain plug on my oil cooler was metal if I remember correctly. Yeah metal as I changed to cooper O ring of both bolts. Maybe mines different on my vehicle 🤷
 
They're good oils, somebody else also mentioned to try the dealers too, apparently they can do good deals. I think they are owned or managed by Sytner, not sure what that's about, no idea? I walked into the dealer to enquire about some trims, whilst waiting in the queue, glimpsed at the Sytner posters all over the place.
 
Yeah like you say, it's hard to go wrong with any the oils we have mentioned. That's really strange I've always associated Sytner with BMW. I find the MB oil to be very cost effective when I have had to purchase it. First off I purchased a 20 litre pouch that come in a box. Then two 5 litre containers for the oil refresh for the cam adjuster plates change. Still have enough to do another change with whats left in each pouch and container.

Was you looking for some trim pieces for your other beast. How's it settling in, to your collection. Lovely looking car your 157 W212. Different animal to your older 156?
 
In the oil cooler, it holds less than 1 litre of oil, maybe approx 700ml. When I changed mine i felt that the plastic plug on the cooler was very brittle, so always useful to have a spare in case it breaks off. For that reason on my next service I wouldn't bother emptying the cooler, it's only a small amount, the fresh oil would circulate through anyway.
The drain plug isn’t plastic, but I know why you think that. They paint over with black paint that gives that look to it.
 
Yeah I can see your point on the oil cooler, although it's still nearly a litre of oil. But I'll definitely be aware of what you advise 👍.

The drain plug on my oil cooler was metal if I remember correctly. Yeah metal as I changed to cooper O ring of both bolts. Maybe mines different on my vehicle 🤷

I presume the oil cooler washer is aluminium on the oil cooler to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion?? It's annoying because they're the same size as the sump, which is a copper washer. I stocked up with with 5 oil cooler washers for something like 9p each from Autodoc when I ordered some brake parts.

My painted oil cooler bolt didn't look like it had ever been off, despite having a FSH.
 
I presume the oil cooler washer is aluminium on the oil cooler to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion?? It's annoying because they're the same size as the sump, which is a copper washer. I stocked up with with 5 oil cooler washers for something like 9p each from Autodoc when I ordered some brake parts.

My painted oil cooler bolt didn't look like it had ever been off, despite having a FSH.
Yes, but I’ve used copper on them before and never had a problem
 
I've used copper crush washers on motorcycle sump plugs for thirty-five years, and never had a problem. You also need less torque for a seal, which reduces the risk of stripping the thread if a previous owner was a thick-fingered numpty with the mechanical sympathy of a gorilla. Copper is also very common for the banjo bolts in motorcycle braking systems.
 
Thank you, will double check next time on the oil cooler plug and washers. Learnt something new today 🙂
 
Yeah like you say, it's hard to go wrong with any the oils we have mentioned. That's really strange I've always associated Sytner with BMW. I find the MB oil to be very cost effective when I have had to purchase it. First off I purchased a 20 litre pouch that come in a box. Then two 5 litre containers for the oil refresh for the cam adjuster plates change. Still have enough to do another change with whats left in each pouch and container.

Was you looking for some trim pieces for your other beast. How's it settling in, to your collection. Lovely looking car your 157 W212. Different animal to your older 156?
That's exactly what went through my head, just kept thinking of bmw whilst waiting in the queue at an mb dealership, weird experience. Yes was trying to get part numbers and prices for the other beast. Only got the door trim to paint, it's cold weather so haven't been able to do anything apart from scraping the snow and ice off and helping the little ones building snowman.

Waiting for some camber bolts to arrive, Postman hasn't been round for a number of days now. Her she is before covered in snow.

20221022_161316.jpg20221022_161144_1.jpg20221123_144450.jpg
 
I've just checked the electrochemical potentials of the the metals....

  • A copper washer with a steel sump is a fair match.
  • An aluminium washer with an aluminium sump is obviously a perfect match!
  • However, a copper washer with aluminium will cause the aluminium to corrode in the presence of an electrolyte (salty road water).
I guess with a sump washer it's covered in oil and not much is exposed but I see why MB specified the aluminium washer for the oil cooler.
 
I've just checked the electrochemical potentials of the the metals....

  • A copper washer with a steel sump is a fair match.
  • An aluminium washer with an aluminium sump is obviously a perfect match!
  • However, a copper washer with aluminium will cause the aluminium to corrode in the presence of an electrolyte (salty road water).
I guess with a sump washer it's covered in oil and not much is exposed but I see why MB specified the aluminium washer for the oil cooler.
Makes sense that. It’s an exposed area in the front. If you are changing it regularly it’s probably ok. Squirt of wax or spray grease on it should keep the water off it. Aluminium washer prefered. Mercedes sprayed black paint over all of it from the factory!
 
That's exactly what went through my head, just kept thinking of bmw whilst waiting in the queue at an mb dealership, weird experience. Yes was trying to get part numbers and prices for the other beast. Only got the door trim to paint, it's cold weather so haven't been able to do anything apart from scraping the snow and ice off and helping the little ones building snowman.

Waiting for some camber bolts to arrive, Postman hasn't been round for a number of days now. Her she is before covered in snow.

View attachment 134857View attachment 134858View attachment 134859

Great stuff, bet you can't wait to get started on the camber bolts and the trim to fit to the 157.

Do you aways remove the sump plug to change the oil, or have you tried the oil suction methods from the top of the engine, just curious.
 
Also a massive thumbs up to @Jobsworth - I’m not brave enough to tackle any of these tasks but it’s still great to read and see a successful outcome!
 
Great stuff, bet you can't wait to get started on the camber bolts and the trim to fit to the 157.

Do you aways remove the sump plug to change the oil, or have you tried the oil suction methods from the top of the engine, just curious.

Looking forward to get my hands dirty and familiarise myself around the engine bay, the m157 is different animal. I'm still sump plugs man, haven't got suction tool, so can't really comment whether it's yay or nay, I don't mind removing sump plugs, although I do know I have to take care extra care to avoid any spillage, otherwise will get told off. 🤪
 
Will definitely check the mechanical, testing this solenoid first though. I'm thinking it's not opening and preventing oiling to the adjusters and gallery ? It was disturbed on removal and is rusted badly. View attachment 118198
Hi @badgx bumping this to see if by chance you made a note of or recall what the torque spec is for the bolts for these solenoids? And do you need to take the adjuster cover (to which the solenoids are attached) off first, or can they be removed in-situ? I am trying to make a bit more room to deal with a rounded T30. and being able to remove a solenoid would help
 
Hi @badgx bumping this to see if by chance you made a note of or recall what the torque spec is for the bolts for these solenoids? And do you need to take the adjuster cover (to which the solenoids are attached) off first, or can they be removed in-situ? I am trying to make a bit more room to deal with a rounded T30. and being able to remove a solenoid would help

10NM only, not much needed.

To remove the solenoids (magnetos), have to wiggle, pull upwards whilst rotating left and right. The solenoid will pop out along with the plunger, it's one complete unit. Wear rubbers gloves when removing, helps to grip when removing.

Would recommend replacing all 4 solenoids (magnetos), a healthy plunger should move freely, should feel silky smooth.

Overtime due to wear and tear, the plunger becomes a bit sticky/gritty internally and the solenoid also losses its strenght. When this happens the oil control flow is effected and effects the timing, also produces a code when it's really bad.

The top accessible solenoids control the exhaust side and the bottom solenoids are the ones which control the intake side.

Replace as soon as possible 👍🙂
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom