Halogen Lighting Help Please

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Howard

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Hi gang,

I know there's a few electricians (and at least one electrical shop owner ;) ) who are members , so could i ask some advice please .....

My pals restaurant is being refurbished , and we need some spot lights ( he has asked me to sort this out for him as we are a bit short of cash )

Basically we need some lights like in the picture below , that can be angled pretty much anywhere and are foolproof for idiot waiters to change without losing bits ....

However , the only ones i can find have a maximum cable run of 5 metres , i am going to need about 12 to 15 metres , with approximately 10 lights on it (either 20w 12v or 35w 12v) I can change the transformer if the one supplied is not up to it .....

They have to be wire lights like this because they are being suspended from a polycarbonate roof and have to stand off so that the heat doesn't damage it. So i'm guessing that they would have stand off posts too , like the ones in the bottom picture ...

Any ideas on where i can get these from with a long enough cable run ?
 
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Teddington SW London
 
Cheers Iain ....

Thats a fine set of glasses you have there !! ;)
 
Just buy a longer wire....

I had a set of ikea lights in my last last place, I just extended the cables by buying a nice long cable of the same dimensions - often fat speaker cable is right (and available in interesting colours....)

the top ones are available from ikea..
 
Thats what i thought Guy .....

But being an electrical idiot , i didn't know if there was some reason why you couldn't extend the wires ...... voltage loss , resistance or whatever ....

But thought i'd sound really dumb if i asked it :eek:

Thats fine then , Ikea it is ..... cheap too ..... wonder if i'll have to replace them evey 5 minutes :rolleyes:

Ok, next dumb question , where can i buy clear wire with a silver colured inside ? that will carry upto 400w at 12v ?
 
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No you wouldn't be dumb Howard. You will get voltage drop on your extended lines,which will lead to premature breakdown of the transformer.
 
How about if i used an oversize transformer ?

So if there was say 350w of load putting a 500w transformer on ? would that help ?

cheers for all the advice so far ..... thats why this forum is so good , there is always someone knowledgeable about whatever you need to know !! (if that makes sense :rock: )
 
Use the fattest wire you can get into the IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) of the light. Then you wont have a drop in voltage worth talking about. Go to maplin or a boy racer audio shop...

The best transformer is the one set for the wattage you use... You wont blow up the transformer :rolleyes: - but if you use undersize wire, you might blow bulbs (as halogens must run at full voltage to have a long life). Cheap transformers (like ikea ones) have no regulation, and so if you run 1 x 20watt bulb on a 200w transformer, it will over voltage a bit, and kill the bulb quickly. if you run 300w of bulb on a 200w transformer, it will drop to 10 volts, and the bulbs will blow (again)

my experiance was thet you should buy brand name (osram for example) bulbs - not the rubbish ikea sell (or b&q for that matter) - and buy in bulk, online.
 
Howard,not wishing to put a damper on your efforts to help your friend but I should point out that since you are talking about electrical wiring in a restaurant- a business establishment where members of the general public will be present- you are probably in breach of current building regulations if you attempt this work yourself. http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/WiringMatters/index.cfm
In the event of an accident or fire ( fires are not unknown in restaurants! ) you may find the HSE will be investigating who did the install work. At worst your friends insurance company may void any cover he has. I would check on the building regs first before you start. Maybe someone who is more familiar with the Building Regs in England and Wales can say for sure??
 
I agree that you MAY be breaching "part P" of the building regs. If you do perform this work first check whether Part P covers the non kitchen area of a commercial premises and if it does the installation will require signing off by a registered tester before it can be commissioned.

Also due to the fact that this is a commercial property and you will be paid for the work you really could do with some public liability insurance.

Personally I wouldn't use halogen reflector lamps at all, for two reasons, one they waste a lot of electricity so are costly to run and two they produce a lot of heat.
I would use 240v compact flourescent reflector lamps. These have a rating of 15,000hrs instead of 1000hrs so wont require changing and use only 20% of the power whilst producing very little heat.
I use Megaman lamps but there are others available now.

Do the job in 240v and get it checked then you're covered.
 
I should have pointed out at the start that i would only be sourcing the kit ...

I will not wiring it up myself, as my electrical prowess is matched only by my website destruction prowess (sorry IBW ;) ) ....

I do pretty much all of the maintenance (painting, decorating etc) within the restaurant , but steer clear of the electrics and plumbing ...

Thanks for the advice and the heads up on the building regs ...
 
scareily I worked out that using halogens vs low energy lights would cost me 115 quid a year more (for 9 lights, on a lot).... think about it - try to get GU10 low energy ones instead - makes a hell of a lot more difference than you think:-

15p/kwh (roughly in london)
10 lights @ 50 watts each on for 12 hours (12 / 1pm to 12 / 1am)
360 days
500 watts x 12 x 360 = 2160,000 watt hours - 2160 Kwh = £324

10 lights @ 7 watts
70 watts x 12 x 360 = 302.4Kwh = £45.36

Difference = 278.64 PER YEAR! Plus, the added cost of replacement....
 
Guy, that's why all my lamps are low energy. Tha payback period is about 1000hrs for standard lamps and more for these reflector GU10.

Approximately half a domeastic electricity cost is used on lighting so much bigger savings can be made changing the bulbs than changing supplier.

GU10
GU10reflectorlamp.jpg


R50
HPIM0049.jpg
 
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GU10's are 50w halogen aren't they ?

I've got GU10's in my bathroom , kitchen and hallway .....

Low energy just looks so much like fluorescent though , not very stylish .... :(
 
Howard said:
GU10's are 50w halogen aren't they ?

I've got GU10's in my bathroom , kitchen and hallway .....

Low energy just looks so much like fluorescent though , not very stylish .... :(

You can't have exposed halogen in the bathroom anyway so the appearance will be very similar.
 
Part P will not cover an establishment where the general public go you will need a full inspection and test report/installation certificate. Part P only covers domestic propertys and is a complete joke in the industry.

I would also be very carefull about putting this type of fitting into a restaurant. We recently wired a bank in Bishopsgate and the electrical designer had specified a similair type of fitting for use in the foyer. The building inspector took one look and asked if someone was trying to take the p***. They all had to be changed for an enclosed hanging track light system.

Be carefull what you install.
 
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