Help! 560sec front end sitting too high
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Sp!ke
Administrator
Do you have sls on your car?
Sp!ke
Administrator
Well the first question is whether the SLS has the correct hydraulic fluid and whether or not it goes up and down when you move the lever on the rear axle.
*warning dont try this lever while lying under the car*
The SLS system is actually a pretty simple system and robust on your car and as long as it is bled properly, has fluid and adjusted correctly they are generally reliable. The spheres can sometimes need replacing but again, they arent particularly expensive to sort.
The lever on the rear axle adjusts ride height so it could have been knocked at some point and just be a simple 2 minute fix. Thats where I would look first.
*warning dont try this lever while lying under the car*
The SLS system is actually a pretty simple system and robust on your car and as long as it is bled properly, has fluid and adjusted correctly they are generally reliable. The spheres can sometimes need replacing but again, they arent particularly expensive to sort.
The lever on the rear axle adjusts ride height so it could have been knocked at some point and just be a simple 2 minute fix. Thats where I would look first.
Last edited:
Thanks for the response!
I checked the valve, everything seems tight and in order. It appears to be in the neutral position, I checked by using a 4 mm drill bit by slotting it through the arm and into the side of the valve. Drove to work this morning seems to have leveled out a bit? Could engine mounts be causing this inconsistent ride height? I know they need replacing cos they're collapsed.
I checked the valve, everything seems tight and in order. It appears to be in the neutral position, I checked by using a 4 mm drill bit by slotting it through the arm and into the side of the valve. Drove to work this morning seems to have leveled out a bit? Could engine mounts be causing this inconsistent ride height? I know they need replacing cos they're collapsed.
Dieselman
Banned
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- Jul 13, 2003
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- Peugeot 403 Convertible
The engine mounts can't alter the body height.
Has the car had new front springs at any point?
The rear dipping is definitely the SLS not functioning properly, the linkage may be seized.
Start the engine and have a couple of heavy blokes sit on the boot lip and ensure the car raises back up again.
Lack of leveling can't be spheres, they just give a hard and bouncy ride.
Has the car had new front springs at any point?
The rear dipping is definitely the SLS not functioning properly, the linkage may be seized.
Start the engine and have a couple of heavy blokes sit on the boot lip and ensure the car raises back up again.
Lack of leveling can't be spheres, they just give a hard and bouncy ride.
No new front springs. I'll test it at lunchtime and let you know.
I have noticed that when I put it in drive the rear end drops down instantly and there's a clunk noise from the rear and when I put in reverse the car goes up slightly with a clunk from the rear.?
I have noticed that when I put it in drive the rear end drops down instantly and there's a clunk noise from the rear and when I put in reverse the car goes up slightly with a clunk from the rear.?
Sp!ke
Administrator
Dieselman has some good advice above.
The alternative is to disconnect the arm on the rear axle so you can manually operate it which should lower or raise the back end depending on the direction you move the arm.
Again, dont operate this by lying under the car unless it is on some ramps or something. You will likely find that the self leveling is quite sluggish and the car needs to be running above tickover before it does anything. This is quite normal.
If there's no movement at all you'll need to do some trouble shooting. A good article on this can be found in the below link. This is for a W123 but yours is almost identical.
Self-Leveling-System - How it works, and troubleshooting the system - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
The alternative is to disconnect the arm on the rear axle so you can manually operate it which should lower or raise the back end depending on the direction you move the arm.
Again, dont operate this by lying under the car unless it is on some ramps or something. You will likely find that the self leveling is quite sluggish and the car needs to be running above tickover before it does anything. This is quite normal.
If there's no movement at all you'll need to do some trouble shooting. A good article on this can be found in the below link. This is for a W123 but yours is almost identical.
Self-Leveling-System - How it works, and troubleshooting the system - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
Dieselman
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2003
- Messages
- 34,206
- Car
- Peugeot 403 Convertible
That indicates the rear subframe bushes are worn, allowing the subframe to move as the torque is applied.
This won't help the level as the reference level will be incorrect, due to the SLS valve working on the relationship between the body and the anti-roll bar position.
First thing you need to do is get under the car and check the bracket for the rear SLS adjuster hasnt broken off...
Okay bracket and rod are tight, I rechecked to make sure it was in the neutral position by inserting a 4 mm pin and noticed its off just slightly.
My question is how much does the lever have to move before the valve is activated?
And if I'm trying to undo the rod from the lever because its mounted sideways and left hand drive what direction loosens it?
Cheers
My question is how much does the lever have to move before the valve is activated?
And if I'm trying to undo the rod from the lever because its mounted sideways and left hand drive what direction loosens it?
Cheers
Adjustment of the rod will not see any immediate movement, its a very slow process and sometimes you have to adjustt it, go for a drive and then see how its settled.
Shorter the rod the lower it sits from memory...
Shorter the rod the lower it sits from memory...
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