Help appreciated with "P009564 - Intake air temperature sensor 2 (cylinder bank 1) has an electrical fault. There is an implausible signal."

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Borris1954

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S204 C 250 CGI BlueEFFICIENCY, R170 SLK 230, B 180d AMG Line
So the EML light came on a few days after the MOT on my wife's 2017 B180D fitted with the OM607 Engine. I hooked up Xentry and got a current and stored fault of P009564 Intake air temperature sensor 2 (cylinder bank 1) has an electrical fault. There is an implausible signal.

So I duly ordered up a new Pressure and Temperature sensor (B4/32) a Bosch 0281006108 which I was assured was the Bosch part number for the equivalent of an MB A 607 905 34 00. When I went to fit it today it does look physically slightly different but has the same 4 wire connector so I put it in. On firing up the engine I found the EML light was still on so assumed I just needed to clear the code. Hooked up Xentry again and I still have exactly the same error code P009564 both current and stored. When I looked at the actual values for intake air temp it was showing 20C which was probably about right.

So my brain cell is a tad confused...
Anyone seen this exact error on this engine before and what was the cause?
I am a puzzled by the reference to "Intake air temperature sensor 2" - Have I just changed a "sensor 1" and there is another sensor 2 lurking somewhere I haven't spotted?
Have I got the wrong part?
Have I got a faulty part (it was from Amazon but supposedly genuine Bosch). As there are no errors relating to MAP I am assuming that half of the sensor at least is working OK.

All thoughts welcome and thanks for reading.
 
I have spent more time looking at WIS and EPC and this is the looks to be the only temp sensor on the air intake plus the WIS page to remove install is entittled "AR09.41-P-2002ORA Remove/install charge air temperature sensor".

If nobody has any other suggestions I guess my next move is to send the Amazon sensor back and get an MB one and then see where I am. I am wondering if the 20C air intake temp I saw in Xentry is an assumed best guess one in the absence of sensor data?
 
Temp sensors are numbered from the air inlet to engine, exhaust from engine to tailpipe.
So, inlet air 1 is normally in the MAF, 2 will be the next in line. So if the TMAP is the next that will be it.

If you're unsure, unplug the sensor and you should get an error like inlet air temp 2 open circuit or short circuit to power of you've the correct one. If you get a different index, you've got the wrong one.

I'm sure Xentry must give you the raw voltages for the temp sensors? They can be very useful to understand what's going on. You should always check wiring first rather than just change the sensor.

A temp sensor is nothing more than a variable resistor, difficult for even a cheap ebay special to get it wrong.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I did a physical wiring inspection first and didn't see anything obvious in the way of damage or corrosion. I will definitely investigate that a bit more and also see what I get if I just unplug the sensor. Also I will poke around in xentry to see what I can find in terms of live data, voltages etc.
 
So the EML light came on a few days after the MOT on my wife's 2017 B180D fitted with the OM607 Engine. I hooked up Xentry and got a current and stored fault of P009564 Intake air temperature sensor 2 (cylinder bank 1) has an electrical fault. There is an implausible signal.

So I duly ordered up a new Pressure and Temperature sensor (B4/32) a Bosch 0281006108 which I was assured was the Bosch part number for the equivalent of an MB A 607 905 34 00. When I went to fit it today it does look physically slightly different but has the same 4 wire connector so I put it in. On firing up the engine I found the EML light was still on so assumed I just needed to clear the code. Hooked up Xentry again and I still have exactly the same error code P009564 both current and stored. When I looked at the actual values for intake air temp it was showing 20C which was probably about right.

So my brain cell is a tad confused...
Anyone seen this exact error on this engine before and what was the cause?
I am a puzzled by the reference to "Intake air temperature sensor 2" - Have I just changed a "sensor 1" and there is another sensor 2 lurking somewhere I haven't spotted?
Have I got the wrong part?
Have I got a faulty part (it was from Amazon but supposedly genuine Bosch). As there are no errors relating to MAP I am assuming that half of the sensor at least is working OK.

All thoughts welcome and thanks for reading.
This sensor in particular sits on underneath egr valve on top of the engine. There are 2 of these sensors number 400 and 420 and its usually number 420 that fails as the part number supercedes.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Yes I looked at these two sensors in EPC and for my VIN at least they are two different part numbers and 400 is listed as just a pressure sensor.
Anyway today I can report that I have replaced the cheapo Amazon part (the one labelled 420 under the EGR) with one from my local MB dealership - at over 4 times the price.
No prizes for guessing that the Fault code became stored only and once cleared all is now well.

Interestingly the Amazon and MB part look absolutely identical and are different the original part. The only difference is one works and one doesn't.
The Amazon part is now in the returns process for a refund.

Lesson Learnt (well actually remembered as I did know this already from past experience!) is that sometimes I am not rich enough to afford cheap parts:
  • You may have to do the more than once which at best wastes your time or at worst costs more money if you are paying someone else to do it for you
  • The job can take a lot longer
  • There can be other related costs that get increased in this case new gaskets for the EGR since it has to come out to get to the bolt.
Caveat Emptor as they say...
 
Pretty sure you can just replace with genuine bosch sensor as its oem, I don't ever replace egr gasket as its metal and can be reused
Thanks for the reply. Yes I looked at these two sensors in EPC and for my VIN at least they are two different part numbers and 400 is listed as just a pressure sensor.
Anyway today I can report that I have replaced the cheapo Amazon part (the one labelled 420 under the EGR) with one from my local MB dealership - at over 4 times the price.
No prizes for guessing that the Fault code became stored only and once cleared all is now well.

Interestingly the Amazon and MB part look absolutely identical and are different the original part. The only difference is one works and one doesn't.
The Amazon part is now in the returns process for a refund.

Lesson Learnt (well actually remembered as I did know this already from past experience!) is that sometimes I am not rich enough to afford cheap parts:
  • You may have to do the more than once which at best wastes your time or at worst costs more money if you are paying someone else to do it for you
  • The job can take a lot longer
  • There can be other related costs that get increased in this case new gaskets for the EGR since it has to come out to get to the bolt.
Caveat Emptor as they say...
 
Pretty sure you can just replace with genuine bosch sensor as its oem, I don't ever replace egr gasket as its metal and can be reused
Yes I think you are quite correct. I stupidly thought I had done that but given how cheap it turned out to be I now don't think it was genuine. I just wanted to get it sorted and the quickest option for me was to pop to main dealer. As for the gasket I was just following the WIS instructions. But must admit I didn't change it the second time as the engine had only been run for a few minutes.
 

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