Help! ---CLK 320 cdi --no reaction to turning key to crank starter position

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martin_sv

New Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
29
Location
North Hampshire
Car
E350cdi Coupe 2012, R230 Sl350 2003 + CLK 320CDi ( will be putting it up for sale)
Hi all, 1st time for donkeys years I've benn stuck by a car which wont go ! :confused:Car parked up a week ago after 160 mile trip. I've never had this issue previously. Battery just a bit on the low side but is on charge right now. All dash lightrs as bright as normal and do not dim ewxcessively when i got to crank positon with key.
Just did a quick search of forum (s)and a) my brake lights are working fine ie switch seems ok b) I can hear the fuel pump do its thing once the ignition goes to first position c) I have tried wiggling the auto selector stick when in park while attempting to crank and also tried whils in neutral position---no dice.
Any sugestions of how to proceed welcome. Is the starter solenoid easily accessible form the bonnet area?
thanks
Martin
 
Could easily be a low battery. Let it charge and see if it cranks
 
Needs a perfect battery. Replace it if doubtful. Also a jump from another car will also assist when you have charged your own.

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Been on charge for 2 hours now and reads 12.7 volts. I've also tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting after 10 mins--still the same prob. The only thing different when I opened the car this morning was the mirrors initially failed to return to the "open" position as I got in the car. They wouldnot respond to the manual switch either. (they're set to autoclose on locking in the menu (2006 model). A couple of locks unlocks +open close door sorted it and they are operating as they should now. I think it maybe time to call the garage!
 
Do you hear the steering lock disengage when you insert the key. If not then it's the ESL (electronic steering lock).
 
many thanks for this further diagnostic tip. Just been to try and it does make the usual noise on key insertion ( which i was unaware what it was doing!) and I establsihed that it does unlock the steering. I also located my spare key in the hopw that my usual keys' transponder might have failed but nope-- still stuck :mad:. I'm away from home but have tried to get booked in with a small local garage which unusually has a star machine. Unfortunately it's his day off lecturing at the local college and the other guy "doesn't do diagnostics"---so I think I'll be waiting around till tomorrow. I'll post back when I learn of the fault.
Martin

PS any one know whether Is it possible to access the shifter inhibitor switch from inside the car?
 
Waiting to hear the outcome!


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The transponding hasn't failed as it would not have unlocked the steering.

I'm assuming you have checked all fuses?
 
RE Solution --Almost thereFuses >>>fuse 52 ( blown and reblows)

RE FUSES I searched the manual and fuse list and aimed for fuses 31,52,and 57. these are listed under "start enable. no 52 (20amp) was blown and replacing it blew either on insertion or more liekly when I turned the key to crank position. Unless anyone is familiar my guess is looking torwards the solenoid or startewr iteself having gone short circuit. At least I can point the mechanic in the right direction now so many thanks for the fuses call. (I had missed this as I thought I'd get a screen message eg fuse 52 open circuit for a blow partic as you get told when a numberplate bulb has gone!.
For additonal info which might help someone the effect of removing fuses 31 or 57 was the same. Key could go into ignition switch but no noise of column unlocking and thus key would not turn>>no dash lights.
 
PS any one know whether Is it possible to access the shifter inhibitor switch from inside the car?
Isn't there a little access port that you reach through the centre arm rest?

From page 359 of the CLK Manual:

  1. Open the stowage compartment on the centre console.
  2. Pull the stowage tray out.
  3. Insert a screwdriver or pen in to the opening in the separator and prise off the separator.
  4. Insert pen or similar object into the bore.
  5. Push pen forwards and at the same time shift the selector out of park.
  6. Remove pen.


Or is that not what you meant?
 
Thanks but unfortunately yes, the inhibitor in question prevents the starter motor from operating unless the shifter is in Park ( or as I have recently learned in neutral). the one you describe assists if putting your foot on the brake fails to allow the shifter to move out of park. Life could be so much easier without the trend for idiot proof technology! ;)
 
FInal Diagnosis as promised

Starter replaced today. Mech stated it was the solenoid part of the assembly that had gone short circuit. Although this is available as a separate part he reckoned that swopping was fiddly ( ie additional labouur charge) and a new Hella starter was just around £30 more so that was the chosen solution.
2 hours labour plus £114 for the starter.
 

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