Help how to remove handbrake cable from subframe

amazighman

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Apr 22, 2016
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CLK 430
Hello.
I have successfully removed the rear subframe from my CLK 430...and all went well .
I have fabricated a wooden platform with wheels to be able to move the subframe around the garage and out for blasting.
The only issue I have is the handbrake cable is attached to the subframe via a rubber loop and it goes to the mechanism in the back seats.
I have tried to remove it from the back seats .I have disconnected it from tensioner ,but I got stuck where it goes out through the body shell.
Wis claims you must have a tool to remove it or break it and buy new one and that tool is mega expensive for little spanner 1 time use....
Any help will be very appreciated..
 

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PobodY

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Can you not disconnect it at the other end and leave the cable hanging from the body? - Or is that half the problem; you can't get that end through the loop, and you can't get the cable out through the body?
 
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amazighman

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I might be doing smth wrong but I tried my best....
The cable won't go through the look as it has that bracket attached to it.andni can't remove it from back seats as it is clamped using some sort of plastic nut....wis says you must use Mercedes own tool to remove it or break that plastic nut and replace the whole cable.... I am stuck..and I don't want to chop that cable in half as it is still good and new ones are 25pounds each aftermarket.
 

grober

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I believe what you may be referring to is a type of expanding ferrule known as a clamping piece. Possibly part No A 1244270092 priced at around £2-50. The specialist tool I confess never having seen might be a sort of open sided ring spanner with a narrowing taper inside- by pushing it towards the ferrule it will clamp it inwards narrowing its diameter allowing it to pass through the orifice. You might be able to emulate this by tightening a stout cable tie or jubilee type clip allowing the cable to be withdrawn. First step would be to get a replacement ferrule/ clamping piece from MB and compare it with the one in situ. Your local MB parts counter should be able to help with your chassis number- worth a gamble for £2-50?? If its the same internally and externally dimension wise then just break off the old one and withdraw the cable. Refitting will be threading it back on the end of the cable before pushing thro the orifice. It should slide in quite easily the other way before locking if my theory is correct.
If the part can't be obtained/checked for suitability then you could try the jubilee clip trick? No guarantee as I have never done this myself
 
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amazighman

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I have tried the jubilee clip...but maybe I didn't tighten it enough. I will try again .thank you for giving me the snap ring part number....in case I can't undo it I will just break it
 

grober

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I have tried the jubilee clip...but maybe I didn't tighten it enough. I will try again .thank you for giving me the snap ring part number....in case I can't undo it I will just break it
It may be the special tool is not tapered but profiled inside to depress certain locking tangs on the ferrule if you understand what I mean. I have never seen the tool so can't say. Thats why buying a replacement ferrule would give you a better idea of its construction/function perhaps. :dk:
 

grober

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I have tried the jubilee clip...but maybe I didn't tighten it enough. I will try again .thank you for giving me the snap ring part number....in case I can't undo it I will just break it
It may be the special tool is not tapered but profiled inside to depress certain locking tangs on the ferrule if you understand what I mean. I have never seen the tool so can't say. Thats why buying a replacement ferrule first would give you a better idea of its size/construction/function and whether it will fit your cable . :dk:
 

grober

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If you end up buying a replacement ferrule/clamping piece a couple of close up photos of it would be nice for others faced with the same thing in the future?
 

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