help with rear window rust w124 estate

Discussion in 'Bodywork' started by mattc, Oct 20, 2008.

  1. mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    hi all

    lifting up the seals on the inside of the load area shows some rust which needs attending to.

    Given the thing is leaking a guess i need new seals for those rear panes. I looked on the russian site and plugged part number in and a new seal came out at £93 on the mb parts catalogue!! is that right. Am I even looking at the right item.

    http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.440&CT=F&cat=44R&SID=67&SGR=045&SGN=02

    I put code 1246701939 into the system; is it actually part 1246730698 I need for both sides (cannot be as its too cheap at 58p!)

    Sorry for not being able to insert the image - I am crap with this sort of thing!
     
  2. SilverSaloon

    SilverSaloon MB Club Veteran

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    a cheaper alternative is to inject some black silicone sealant into the trim as you pull it up and run it along.

    mine had a rust bit previously fixed and had sealant injected in. This had gone hard and started to leak again, so i dug it out best i could and re-applied.

    thats what i did and fixed (one of) my leaks!

    get some black sealant from B&Q or similar :)
     
  3. OP
    OP
    mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    it seems a repair has been attempted already and the rust is ongoing. I want to fix the problem rather than perhaps fix it for a few months only for it to return.

    Anyone explain how i remove the glass from the seal and replace it?
     
  4. Druk

    Druk Administrator Staff Member

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    Been there, done that. I would be surprised if the seal was caput. The rust will be on the upstand flange where the inner and outer wings are joined. The rust forces the seal off it's seat and causes leaks which makes the rust worse. Hardest part of the job is likely to be getting the garnish or 'cargo moulding' off without bending it at the top front corner.
    Start with the screws holding this moulding inside the rear door C pillar. DONT TRY AND PULL THIS PART AWAY FROM THE RUBBER. IT WILL BEND. Use something wide and flat like a bolster chisel and insert it under the trim on the horizontal part at the top front corner. You will need a padded fulcrum against the glass. GENTLY lever the trim away from the rubber a very small part at a time working your way along to the rear bottom corner. This trim is T in section and it's function is to spread the seal so it will be tight and also full of crap which doesn't help. Do it slowly, the trims are £90 each !!!
    Take the internal trims off the C and D pillars. The C pulls out from a spring at the top then lifts away, the D I cant remember.
    Putting steady pressure on the inside top front corner of the glass push gently till you see the glass starting to move. It will start to move I promise. A help with a screwdriver to get the pointed rubber over the flange and the glass will come out with the rubber attached. Someone on the outside to catch it would be beneficial.
    If you're not happy doing this bit then maybe someone at Autoglass would help for the price of a pint. Betcha once the rubber is cleaned up it will be as good as new.

    Fix rust and re-assemble,:confused: or at least ask again once you're ready.:)
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  5. OP
    OP
    mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Thanks Druk. So will i be able to remove panes, rustproof and then reattach windows in a day?

    Understand putting the glass back can be difficult??
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  6. Druk

    Druk Administrator Staff Member

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    Probably not. Fixing the rust might take longer than you expect what with Kurust, primer, Por 15 etc etc. Some of these things take a while to dry properly before you can overcoat them. And I'll bet it takes an hour or two just to clean the rubber channels out properly.

    Cut a bit of plywood to fit the hole and fasten it with cleats from the inside.

    BTW. It's my theory that leaks from this area are the prime cause of rust on the rear wheelarch flange. The water drips down on the inside and there's naf-all underseal (or paint) in there.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2008
  7. OP
    OP
    mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    I did think I would be pushing it in a day. Is there any problem with attempting this sort of thing at this time of year due to low temperatures?
     
  8. Druk

    Druk Administrator Staff Member

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    No, I don't think so. Pissing down wet is more of a problem if you're not indoors. Putting the rubber/glass back is easy peasy once you've done it once. I'll explain later once you've fixed the rust.
     
  9. OP
    OP
    mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Dont hold your breath then:D .
     
  10. Frank O' Phile

    Frank O' Phile Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Just a suggestion....

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-boot-tail-gate-w124-T-series-TE-TD_W0QQitemZ130147876846QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130147876846&_trkparms=72%3A1301|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

    Get it painted before fitting and voila...
     
  11. OP
    OP
    mattc

    mattc Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Its the 2 side panes at the rear I am on about - not the glass in the boot lid (though bet if i look that is getting rusty too!)
     

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