Hot water cylinder leaking.

neilrr

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This a.m. was watching the F1 race when I noticed a slow drip coming from the ceiling light fixture.

Investigated & the 1200 x 450, vented, indirect at least 20 y.o. hot water cylinder has a slowish drip leaking from the cold water intake. All looks a bit crusty & it seems it's been going on for quite a while.

The label on the leaking cylinder.
2119dmo.jpg


Could those of you who know about this kind of thing guide me please?

Can these be fixed or is it kaput?

If a replacement is required are all cylinders much of a muchness or is there something I need to know?

Where can I get a good deal?

Anything else I need to be aware of?

Thanks!
 
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developer

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A photo of the cold water intake would be useful.
 

PobodY

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I would have thought it depends where the leak is, but it should be repairable... unless you're looking for an excuse to replace it that is.
 
OP
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N

neilrr

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The last thing I want to do is go through the faff & expense of replacing it!

Is there a plumber's version of K-Seal?
 

Druk

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I would cut back some of the foam around the fitting (say for an inch or so) and clean up the area to determine exactly from where the leak is coming. It may simply be the plumbers putty has hardened and split in which case draining the tank down and re-fixing the fitting will cure all.
Although, tbh, the flange on the tank wall doesn't look to great.





.
 
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Peter103

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You'll need to replace the tank, its a pretty standard 1200 x 450 (48“ x18“ ) foam lagged indirect cylinder, get from any local Plumb Center, Graham's, or any Plumbers merchants off the shelf, unless you're well versed in the trade , would be better to phone a local Plumber, as heating and hot water systems need to be drained. Forget repairing, never works, 20 year old tank probably half full of scale, and it will probably leak from elsewhere soon enough. Good luck. :thumb:
 

Darrell

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As he said.

They are a pig to do, usually in a confined space and always bring in airlocks etc

They are not tanks, they are cylinders so can we please get the terminology correct.
 

developer

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If it was on the fitting side of the cylinder it would be fixable, but it seems to be on the cylinder side of the fitting - I'd change it.

Worth noting that I've had a few cylinder where the cylinder itself has developed a pin hole (can appear anywhere) and emptied itself into the room below - you might fix this and be unlucky to get a perforated cylinder in the future.

I'd change it - they are easy enough, depending on your level of competence.

Also, if you get a plumber to do it, don't let him "do you a favour" by taking the old one away - it's worth c£30 as scrap.
 
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camerafodder

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I would cut back some of the foam around the fitting (say for an inch or so) and clean up the area to determine exactly from where the leak is coming. It may simply be the plumbers putty has hardened and split in which case draining the tank down and re-fixing the fitting will cure all.
Although, tbh, the flange on the tank wall doesn't look to great.





.

This^^

Are you in a hard, soft or fairly neutral water area?
 

grober

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Was going to suggest JB WELD MARINE PUTTY but that tank looks well past its sell-by date. New tank as above-- some of the modern copper ones can be paper thin so buy cheap buy dear. Specialist plumbers merchant is your best bet rather than the "big DIY sheds"
 

Happytalk73

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It can be fixed but it's a great excuse to install I pressurised hot water system. Mains powered hot water at every hot water tap in the house. Much better than gravity fed.

Go for it matey. :thumb:
 

Felstmiester

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It's not under pressure so you will be able to bodge the leak. There's silicon you can buy now that can be used on wet joints or even under water. I'm sure you'll stop it leaking but like I say will be a bodge fix. Doing this may last years or may not. Depends on how you want to deal with it. I'd give it a bit of a clean beforehand if you decide to go this route.
 

Darrell

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Happytalk73 said:
It can be fixed but it's a great excuse to install I pressurised hot water system. Mains powered hot water at every hot water tap in the house. Much better than gravity fed. Go for it matey. :thumb:

Providing that the rest of the pipe work in the house is pukka. If it ain't your gonna have big problems
 

Peter103

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If your immersion heater is a top and not side entry then that will be fine. :thumb:
It will probably be better to buy a new 27" immersion heater as the old one will be on its way out, and can be a pain to remove, unless it has been replaced recently, they are quite inexpensive, cheap even.
 
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