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how long will it last

cejsmith

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
45
Location
milton keynes
Car
E300 estate
I've now fixed most of the little problems with my E300TD estate and assuming that I will one day get the rust sorted( if it's possible) how long do you think it will last as long as it's serviced properly.

It's now 10 years old and done 176K

Also most of the rust seems to be wheel arch and door bottom related, where do they go that effects a MOT???
 
A long long time!
Get the car up on a ramp and get the inner wing covers off and have a good look around all the suspension mounts. Having got as far as this take the opportunity to give it all a good clean and assuming nothing disastorous looking then dose it with some rust preventative like waxoyl or similar. Squirt it inside all the body panels whilst you are at it. It should outlast you then with a bit of regular maintenance.
 
mines done 400k no problems e300td 9 years old now

got a little bitof rust creeping on the rear arches

Going to get them sorted when i get the car in for full colour coding
 
I've now fixed most of the little problems with my E300TD estate and assuming that I will one day get the rust sorted( if it's possible) how long do you think it will last as long as it's serviced properly.

It's now 10 years old and done 176K

Also most of the rust seems to be wheel arch and door bottom related, where do they go that effects a MOT???

Have you looked behind the rubbers on the window surrounds of the doors? The tops in particular seem to go. Ours is the same age as yours, and is fairly bad there.

The water pump on ours went, the plastic impeller freewheeling rather than making the water go round. Ours only has 116k up. I think it is not a unique event for the impeller to give way, but I could not say it is inevitable.
 
front suspension spring top caps can rust and break away from inner wing.

the inner wing under the ABS can rust through.

the inner wing under washer bottle can rust through.

the subframe can crack right way through especially on estates that have been worked hard.

also the body where the front subframe bolts to it can rust badly but can be welded - although it is an MOT failure in the meantime until welded, and the whole of the subframe and rear suspension has to be removed, so is an expensive excercise unless you are a DIY type.

replacement of three rusted rear brakes pipes should be expected in time, as well as pipes feeding the self level suspension.

side sills jacking points are good prospects for rust, so clear then out.

wings etc are the easy bits and not life threatening.

Fortunately all replacement parts are available from Merc at reasoable prices, or in the case of subframes, at breakers.

Now is the time to start learning the craft of welding.
 
front suspension spring top caps can rust and break away from inner wing.

the inner wing under the ABS can rust through.

the inner wing under washer bottle can rust through.

the subframe can crack right way through especially on estates that have been worked hard.

also the body where the front subframe bolts to it can rust badly but can be welded - although it is an MOT failure in the meantime until welded, and the whole of the subframe and rear suspension has to be removed, so is an expensive excercise unless you are a DIY type.

replacement of three rusted rear brakes pipes should be expected in time, as well as pipes feeding the self level suspension.

side sills jacking points are good prospects for rust, so clear then out.

wings etc are the easy bits and not life threatening.

Fortunately all replacement parts are available from Merc at reasoable prices, or in the case of subframes, at breakers.

Now is the time to start learning the craft of welding.


Are you saying that w210s go rusty? :devil:
 
It seems that the major problem with the cars is rust then.

I did actually take it in to see if it was covered by the 30 year guarantee, but no it wasn't, even though the rust had already been done by Merc a few years before. Is it worth chasing MB?
 
Rust is certainly a major issue with both of our E300TDs.
KTH286 has covered most of the problem areas.

From a structural safety point of view, keep a regular check on front spring perches and sub-frames.

Other than this, they are pretty reliable.
Sway bar bushes and drop links seem to go pretty regularly.
Other things, (like brakes, exhausts) I consider consumables.

A good work-horse with a lot of mileage potential.
Shame about the corrosion issues.
 
You would imagine that a 10 year old W210 is probably not going to suffer perch failure. The failure is down to poor underseal application. If it was poorly applied at manufacture it would most likely have failed by now. My attitude is that I can't see any rust, ergo it's going to last.

The front cross member tends to rust due to inadequate space between the underside of the engine tray ( or steel sump guard in my case ) and the cross member allowing water to sit. In my case, it can't be seen except on removal of said sump guard. When I did get a chance to look it had started to rust. It's not too bad yet, but will need attended to.
 
In my experience, its no good putting waxoyl on metal thats already rusty, you need to give treatment with 'jenolite' first (the army use it !), & then waxoyl. What im saying is you should view waxoyl as a preventer rather than as a curer, even though i know they say different !
 

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