How to change the automatic gerbox oil and flush on a 722.6 'box

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Great HowTo.

Even though I was in the workshop watching while Olly did this for me a few months ago I had no idea how much was involved.

One question. I thought the dipstick/filler cap was supposed to be tamperproof in that if you ever took it off you'd have to buy another one. Is this not the case?
 
Great HowTo.

Even though I was in the workshop watching while Olly did this for me a few months ago I had no idea how much was involved.

One question. I thought the dipstick/filler cap was supposed to be tamperproof in that if you ever took it off you'd have to buy another one. Is this not the case?

The red clip you saw in the photo has to be replaced to securly refit the filler/dipstick cap.
 
Hi olly, a very informative thread. Would the procedure be the same on a w124. The reason i ask is i have a leak somewhere and was going to replace the sump gasket and filter.Is star required purely for temperature readings.

ANDY.


First OLLIE congrats on a very informative and well illustrated write up. Immortality awaits in MB forums around the world!;)

A couple of comments.

If you havn't got Star you can probably measure transmission fluid temperature with a digital thermometer and long thermocouple down the dipstick -quite a few digital voltmeters now offer a thermocouple accessory also. Failing that driving the car around for about 10 miles will bring the new fluid temperature up for final level adjustment [ still best practice to check the temp if possible]

I always think its a good idea to temporarily collect and measure the volume of fluid you drain out. Its interesting to examine it for indications of any potential problems and may help gauge just how much fresh fluid to put back in. [assuming the original level was correct of course!]

For tippandy's W124 question the process is broadly the same but the filter is slightly different and held on with 3? screws. A bonus on older cars is that the torque converter has its own drain plug so the extra "plumbing " step is not required. The torque converter draining is pictured in this earlier post.http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/howto/23969-howto-change-atf-97-w210.html
 
And as the proud owner of the very W210 used in this HOWTO, I can confirm that there is a definite improvement in changes and overall smoothness. I will admit to being somewhat skeptical that I would notice any difference at all but the changes are certainly smoother and quieter. My reason for having the job done was as a preventative measure as I have grown quite attached to my W210 and want to get another couple of years use from it. I didn't expect to notice as much of a differance as the car was already smooth to start with.

I have done a few ATF changes in my time but watching Olly do it am glad I had it done professionally as the process is more complex than I had experienced on previous cars. I guess its down to your personal view, if the car was only worth a grand then I would probably do it myself. But for what it cost I was happy to get it done professionally. Olly had a slightly hairy moment with one of the sump bolts which if it had seized would have needed drilling out. Made me think I was glad it was his problem not mine at that point!! :eek:
 
Ollie, am I correct in saying that when you drained the torque converter, you did not drain any of the fresh ATF you added to the sump?
 
No. It pumps it from the TC
 
Thanks Ollie. I'm curious to know when does the ATF in the sump start mixing with the ATF in the TC?
 
The fluid from the pipe stops flowing when the TC and pipework/cooler is empty. When you top up for the second time it re-fills.
 
well after that post it seems easy ...BUT I think I will be booking my car in with Ollie and a rad change at the same time . I know chicken but things have got a habbit of going wrong when I do nuts and bolts ..
 
Its a good idea to get a garage to do it... a lot of times things are seized and its easier to sort when you have a ramp and the right tools.
 
Well done Ollie,wish you were here in Kuwait to teach MB local dealer how to change transmission oil and filter .
I have gone twice to the local dealer here to have transmission oil and filter changed (local dealer told me you have to change transmission oil every 60,000km for my W124).
In both times I have never seen them washing the sump pan as you did,also they don't check transmission oil temperature after change and top up.
More over ,my transmission has rough changes ,they never know that because they didn't drive it after transmission oil change.
I have a small comment,cleaning the bolts was really a sign of perfect job (which was never done to my transmission too:confused:),why don't you replace them with new ones? are they expensive?
Thanks
 
There is no point if there is nothing wrong with the bolt. It keeps the cost down.

The 722.9 'box you have to replace the bolts. They are aluminuim.
 
autotrans oil change

Hi black55,
If you drain the sump and remove the banjo bolt then run the engine for 4mins does this have the same draining effect on the TC and oil coolers?
Do you need fresh oil to push the old out.
 
Great 'How To' Ollie........

.......however as professional, thorough and detailed as it is, you'll still be doing mine ;)

:D:D:D

PS: 800 miles to go for an 'A' service. so expect a call soon. I may even bring the family down and stay in Portsmouth overnight :bannana:

PPS: Pleased to hear that everything went off extremely well yesterday :thumb:......such a shame I couldn't make it :(
 
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Well it will be exactly the same as how Olly has done it (your car will have a torque converter drain plug so you wont have to undo the cooler pipe). So it should be a fairly easy job now that Olly has created a brilliant step by step guide with pictures.

If you still dont feel comfortable with the HOWTO as a guide i would take it to an indy.
 
Olly, you going to do a write up on how to change the diff oil?

you can do that on my 211 tomorrow if you want.. :)
 

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