H13BS M
Banned
Since all the awful dirt, rain, snow, and salt the car really looked a mess.To be fair though i hadnt washed it since december 5th so it was due!So today i thought i would do a complete 7 stage wash on my car. I was presented with this:
The first stage is to degrease.The lower you go down the car, the worse it obviously is, so sometimes letting snow foam dwel, wont get the film of dirt and salt of your side skirts.Rember you dont want to touch any of this, as you are wanting to wash the car without scratching the paint up more, so if you have products that will pull the dirt of the paints surface without you touching it, your onto a winner.I use surfex HD for this as its strong but forgiving on paint.
I leave this to dwel once sprayed on the lower half of the car so it can do its magic of lifting the dirt of the surface of the car making it very loose.
While its dwelling i get on with the second stage the wheels.I look no further then bilberry for this as its like a citrus wheel gel, that has no acid in it but is a gel so will cling to the wheels with ease.
Then i just put hot water into my rinse bucket with the tools i use for the wheels.
Detailing brushes was used for the fascia's.
And an ez was used for the insides.
Now the wheels were fully scrubbed i moved on to stage 3 which was snow foam.For this i used a HD Lance with a karcher pro attachment and a mixture of bilthammer, and 3m.This is mainly due beacuse 3m car shampoo is wicked and gives a good kick to the snowfoam for degresing.
I left this to dwel for 10 mins and then rinsed off with the pw.After this it was onto stage 4 wash 1.For this is used the 2 bucket method and supernatural shampoo as it dosent create to meny suds, which is good just to wipe off the excess dirt that may be on the paint still. For those who dont know the 2 bucket method, is where you have a rinse bucket and a wash bucket.You should dip your mitt into your wash bucket for shampoo, clean 1 panel and then scrub it clean in the rinse bucket. Then back to the wash bucket.
As you can see from below that this is a wise idea when you dont fancy scratching your expensive paint.By doing this you will not rub more grit picked up by the mitt onto your paint, and will always keep your shampoo bucket clean and fresh.Lets face it you wanted to wash the car in the first place, so why would you want to rub the dirt round and around.Just think when you use one bucket thats what it would look like and what you would then be rubbing on the paint!!!!!!
This is now what the car looked like and as you can see i have striped most of the lsp off, as the water is not beeding on the paint at all!
The picture below is of the bonnet covered completly in water.As you can see the water is sheeting as opposed to beading.This proves there is no lsp left on the car.LSP is short for LAST STAGE PRODUCT, which is protection such as sealents and waxes.It is vital to strip old lsp completly off to give your car a real clean, otherwise alot of winter film will stay in the old lsp stoping your car from having an optimum finish and gloss.
Then it was onto stage 5, claying.This is where you take clay and using a quick detailer you rub it all over the paint and thenthe windows and wheels.This will take all oxidations out of your paint which only now will mean your paint truely is clean of all its oxidants.You will tell this by running your hand across the paint as it will be extremely smooth.
Clay will come in a block so mark it out into pieces as you'll usally get 5-6 pieces out of the block.
You will also want to smooth out your block of clay you are going to use, so run it under a warm tap and slowly flaten it. as its quite hard to begin with.
It took me about 40 mins to clay my wheels, paint and windows and was left with this.As you can see shampoo will clean the paint but it wont get everything out.
Stage 6-Wash 2-Some times after claying the clay can leave a milky resin on the paint, so its best to wash the car again.For this i change shampoos and use one of the best in the world, Born to be mild.This is the silkiest shampoo i have ever used, and really is like layering silk onto the car.This is perfect for final stage washing due to the purities in the shampoo leaving the surface super slick.
As you can see in the rinse bucket this time around there really isnt much ln the way of dirt and oxidations...
And also as seen here the water is beading quite well, seeing that theres no wax on the paint at all.This is due to the paint being completly purified of its grime and oxidations that the water now has nothing to cling onto!
All that was left now was the 7 stage which was drying.For this i used a cg 70/30 drying towel.Its 70/30 ultra-premium blend of Polyester and Polyamide. The fibers are precise split fibers with a spiral pattern, to deliver the softest most absorbent microfiber . This used with a drying aid like time to dry means i was able to dry my car going round it once without ringing the towel out. These 7 stages left my entie exterior of my car genuinly clean with no oxidations left anywhere.
My car is now ready for the last 2 main stages:
Complete Paint Correction
This will consit of masking up all door gaps, lights, exterior trims and badges.I will then correct the entire paint, glass and headlight plastics, using a 3 stage correctiong process using rotary and pc machines, various pads, compounds and ploishes to remove as meny defects as possible without removing anymore then 10 microns of clearcoat.Defects could include swirls, rds, pigtails, holograms and sand marks.
Complete exterior protection
I will be polishing and sealing the wheels and exhaust via a dremel rotary tool and protecting the car with 3 stage zaino z2 pro polish with zfx accelerators, wipedowns, bespoke wax and a sealent finil wip down. Also i will show you all the differences and how they work between differnt protections such as:
-Winter sealents
-Cheap and bespoke waxes
-Glazes
-Micro abrasive Polishes
-Filler Polish
-polish accelerators
-sealents
-quick detailers
Hopefully this might help some of you and help you in some situations, so comments are welcome and if you have any questions, then just pm me or ask on this thread and i will try and help!
If you made it through thanks for taking alook!
Regards Michael
The first stage is to degrease.The lower you go down the car, the worse it obviously is, so sometimes letting snow foam dwel, wont get the film of dirt and salt of your side skirts.Rember you dont want to touch any of this, as you are wanting to wash the car without scratching the paint up more, so if you have products that will pull the dirt of the paints surface without you touching it, your onto a winner.I use surfex HD for this as its strong but forgiving on paint.
I leave this to dwel once sprayed on the lower half of the car so it can do its magic of lifting the dirt of the surface of the car making it very loose.
While its dwelling i get on with the second stage the wheels.I look no further then bilberry for this as its like a citrus wheel gel, that has no acid in it but is a gel so will cling to the wheels with ease.
Then i just put hot water into my rinse bucket with the tools i use for the wheels.
Detailing brushes was used for the fascia's.
And an ez was used for the insides.
Now the wheels were fully scrubbed i moved on to stage 3 which was snow foam.For this i used a HD Lance with a karcher pro attachment and a mixture of bilthammer, and 3m.This is mainly due beacuse 3m car shampoo is wicked and gives a good kick to the snowfoam for degresing.
I left this to dwel for 10 mins and then rinsed off with the pw.After this it was onto stage 4 wash 1.For this is used the 2 bucket method and supernatural shampoo as it dosent create to meny suds, which is good just to wipe off the excess dirt that may be on the paint still. For those who dont know the 2 bucket method, is where you have a rinse bucket and a wash bucket.You should dip your mitt into your wash bucket for shampoo, clean 1 panel and then scrub it clean in the rinse bucket. Then back to the wash bucket.
As you can see from below that this is a wise idea when you dont fancy scratching your expensive paint.By doing this you will not rub more grit picked up by the mitt onto your paint, and will always keep your shampoo bucket clean and fresh.Lets face it you wanted to wash the car in the first place, so why would you want to rub the dirt round and around.Just think when you use one bucket thats what it would look like and what you would then be rubbing on the paint!!!!!!
This is now what the car looked like and as you can see i have striped most of the lsp off, as the water is not beeding on the paint at all!
The picture below is of the bonnet covered completly in water.As you can see the water is sheeting as opposed to beading.This proves there is no lsp left on the car.LSP is short for LAST STAGE PRODUCT, which is protection such as sealents and waxes.It is vital to strip old lsp completly off to give your car a real clean, otherwise alot of winter film will stay in the old lsp stoping your car from having an optimum finish and gloss.
Then it was onto stage 5, claying.This is where you take clay and using a quick detailer you rub it all over the paint and thenthe windows and wheels.This will take all oxidations out of your paint which only now will mean your paint truely is clean of all its oxidants.You will tell this by running your hand across the paint as it will be extremely smooth.
Clay will come in a block so mark it out into pieces as you'll usally get 5-6 pieces out of the block.
You will also want to smooth out your block of clay you are going to use, so run it under a warm tap and slowly flaten it. as its quite hard to begin with.
It took me about 40 mins to clay my wheels, paint and windows and was left with this.As you can see shampoo will clean the paint but it wont get everything out.
Stage 6-Wash 2-Some times after claying the clay can leave a milky resin on the paint, so its best to wash the car again.For this i change shampoos and use one of the best in the world, Born to be mild.This is the silkiest shampoo i have ever used, and really is like layering silk onto the car.This is perfect for final stage washing due to the purities in the shampoo leaving the surface super slick.
As you can see in the rinse bucket this time around there really isnt much ln the way of dirt and oxidations...
And also as seen here the water is beading quite well, seeing that theres no wax on the paint at all.This is due to the paint being completly purified of its grime and oxidations that the water now has nothing to cling onto!
All that was left now was the 7 stage which was drying.For this i used a cg 70/30 drying towel.Its 70/30 ultra-premium blend of Polyester and Polyamide. The fibers are precise split fibers with a spiral pattern, to deliver the softest most absorbent microfiber . This used with a drying aid like time to dry means i was able to dry my car going round it once without ringing the towel out. These 7 stages left my entie exterior of my car genuinly clean with no oxidations left anywhere.
My car is now ready for the last 2 main stages:
Complete Paint Correction
This will consit of masking up all door gaps, lights, exterior trims and badges.I will then correct the entire paint, glass and headlight plastics, using a 3 stage correctiong process using rotary and pc machines, various pads, compounds and ploishes to remove as meny defects as possible without removing anymore then 10 microns of clearcoat.Defects could include swirls, rds, pigtails, holograms and sand marks.
Complete exterior protection
I will be polishing and sealing the wheels and exhaust via a dremel rotary tool and protecting the car with 3 stage zaino z2 pro polish with zfx accelerators, wipedowns, bespoke wax and a sealent finil wip down. Also i will show you all the differences and how they work between differnt protections such as:
-Winter sealents
-Cheap and bespoke waxes
-Glazes
-Micro abrasive Polishes
-Filler Polish
-polish accelerators
-sealents
-quick detailers
Hopefully this might help some of you and help you in some situations, so comments are welcome and if you have any questions, then just pm me or ask on this thread and i will try and help!
If you made it through thanks for taking alook!
Regards Michael
@ olly hahahaha
!!
