How to fix rust problems

[RobC270]

Morning All

Does anyone know of any god quality instruction uploads on You tube that guide a total noob through the process of doing body work repairs. I'm afraid my knowledge of cars is poor but I might need to do something in this regard shortly and I want to avoid wading through the inevitable rubbish on YT and get straight to the good stuff.

Any help would be appreciated
Many thanks
Rob

 

[PobodY]

What kinds of repairs are you planning on doing? - Do you already own a MIG welder than you are experienced with, or are you drawing the line at fibreglass and body filler?

I found one of the Mighty Car Mods videos about dent repairs in their Daihatsu Charade quite helpful, but it may not be everyone's cup of tea.

 

[bob6600]

Does anyone know of any god quality instruction uploads on You tube that guide a total noob through the process of doing body work repairs. I

These two don't sound good in one sentence!

It all depends on the age of the car, how good you want the finish etc.

For any rust repair, you need to remove the rust, treat, fill/replace and paint. If it is surface rust it can be ground back to good metal. If not, you need to cut the offending bits and weld in new metal.

If you want a good result, get someone to do it. Body repairs need to be perfect otherwise once the paint goes on, it will look really bad. Painting is a skill that requires lots of practice to get right.

I know it's not what you wanted to know but just some friendly advice.

 

[RobC270]

All advice appreciated so don't worry about being brutal The car's not in fact that bad and although I'm yet to even scrape through the rust, my guess is it's superficial ie there will still be sound metal underneath and hence this is more a filling, sanding and repainting effort. The car is old, tired and really nearing the end of it's life but for the engine which, being a Mercedes Diesel is (at 110K miles) a veritable baby! Essentially, the car is disintegrating around the very sound engine!

So my goal is to make cosmetic repairs and have it last another 2 years or so since I'm guessing professional repairs don't come cheap as it's clearly a labour intensive process. I'm really trying to limp on for another 2 years rather than throw money at it.

 

[RobC270]

In terms of my expertise, though novice in terms of body work repairs, I have a great deal of experience of working with materials and have a very practical, rational approach so the process holds no fear at all, it's just knowledge I need. (I don't weld mind so if we're into adding bits, it's time to outsource).

 

[bob6600]

Sounds like my W210

I am contemplating tidying it up a bit too, just so it's a bit more pleasing the eye. A proper rust repair is far too expensive as the car is not worth it unless I'm keeping it for years, which I doubt I will.

Post up results if you do decide to have a go

 

[wu56Shoozz]

If its wings, and you intend to keep it then you would be better replacing them rather than repairing, for longevity purposes...

 

[RobC270]

Thanks chaps....it's exactly as Bob6600 suggests ie these are cosmetic repairs to stop me from embarrassing myself. Basically there's a few bubbles of rust, one by the boot handle and a couple at the road end of the rear wheel arches. Having said that, while I'm at it I may have a go at a couple of minor dings too, very minor indeed.

It's odd, the car has very little resale value, but the engine is in fabulous nick and it's a pleasure to drive so I want it to continue living for a while longer and never before have I attempted to restore body work of a car. I'm either getting sentimental or old...or both!!

 

[Deleted member 37751]

Great engine the 270 CDi, possibly the best Diesel engine I've owned, great on fuel economy too:

 

[RobC270]

Yes its fabulous, in fact the fuel economy is one of the primary reasons I don't want to part with it. I've had close to 60 mpg on long motorway runs (according to the computer) which is incredible. It's done circa 110K and my understanding of Mercedes Diesel is that puts it in the "just run in" category??

 

[RobC270]

What's dis-heartening is that the car seems to be falling apart round the bullet proof engine!! I've had all manner of recent bugs and gremlins that are nothing whatever to do with the engine.

I can see myself sitting atop an engine with 4 wheels in 5 years....Mad Max style...after the rest has long since rotted!

 

[190]

If the front wings are bolt on they are easy to replace. There are online outfits that will supply a wing ready painted. I fitted one to my 190e and the paint match wasn't that bad and almost certainly better than a non professional could achieve at home.

 

[whysub]

I recent purchased an S202 CDi 220 with major paint issues-rear arches, front arches. back door along the bottom. Once the flaking paint was removed (wire brush in a drill), I applied some Bilt Hamer rust remover, then their Hydro 80 rust converter, a bit of primer then top coat from Halfords. Looks loads better. and if I had skim filled the roughness out, it would look even better-but buying the car for £100, I don't want to spend any time on it.

It might have been rusty, but nothing had rotted (have you seen how 10 year old Micra's can rot?), and the underside is as good as new. 216K on the clock and it runs great, getting 50 mpg on the drive home from buying it.

I'm running it on a tight budget, so stuff will only get done when it needs to get done-brake pads are the only thing I can see that are needed for its MOT next month.

 

[MancMike]

Firstly, I'm going to be a bit blunt, but don't deal with it, just try to get yourself into something newer and galvanised.

You need to strip back any loose rust, then treat with a stopping agent such as kurrust. You then use something like waxoil to stop moisture getting to that metal in future.

Honestly though, you'll go through all that hard work and expense, and years later you'll be in something newer that'll just not rust and wonder why you threw good money after bad.

If you're keen on keeping this car, keep your budget realistic. It's never going to be a concourse car, don't try to make it live beyond the time you plan to keep it, as it's resale value will be likely sub 1k.

 

[BlackC55]

You will only get rid of the rust if you cut it out. I have 2 C270's and a C240 of the same era. I paid £500 for the 240 and £1k for the 270's. They are a little rusty and thats just the way it is. If I shell out 2K to fix the corrosion on each car then they are not financially viable. When they get really bad I will just buy another one. If the wheel arches are rusty the underside will be too. Its a case of chasing your tail.

 

[rf065]

Firstly, I'm going to be a bit blunt, but don't deal with it, just try to get yourself into something newer and galvanised.

I'll be blunt as well, My CLK is newer & fully galvanised but it still rusted in all the usual places. Galvanising means nothing if the car is not painted properly in the first place, which is a big Mercedes problem.

Russ

 

[toolman1954]

Morning All

Does anyone know of any god quality instruction uploads on You tube that guide a total noob through the process of doing body work repairs. I'm afraid my knowledge of cars is poor but I might need to do something in this regard shortly and I want to avoid wading through the inevitable rubbish on YT and get straight to the good stuff.

Any help would be appreciated
Many thanks
Rob

The desire to learn about the black arts of bodywork repairs is in fact to be applauded, and you should be encouraged to "have a go ." Whether or not your Merc is to right car to be " having a go " on is your choice.
Repairing other folks bodge jobs is a tedious and time consuming experience. However we all have to start to learn somewhere.
May I suggest you look at your local College and see if they do Evening Classes in Bodywork/ Welding, then you get some good tuition from a pro.
Failing that as a stop gap, watch some Wheeler Dealer episodes where Edd China is cutting out and repairing bodywork. I do not always agree with some of his methods he uses, but we all have our own ways.
Bodywork is a lonely existence, hours and hours of rubbing down, guide coats more flatting, painting, getting rid of the kamikazee fly that has stuck to your paintwork....it never ends.
Oil changing and spanner work is so much easier, although never visually rewarding. No one would ever say "that's a nice balljoint you fitted".
It is however, very satisfying to look at the fruits of your labours, day after day, after you have completed body repairs successfully. Even better when you get a compliment on the paintwork done.

Steve

 

[Mercy Me]

You will only get rid of the rust if you cut it out. I have 2 C270's and a C240 of the same era. I paid £500 for the 240 and £1k for the 270's. They are a little rusty and thats just the way it is. If I shell out 2K to fix the corrosion on each car then they are not financially viable. When they get really bad I will just buy another one. If the wheel arches are rusty the underside will be too. Its a case of chasing your tail.

I repair damaged car bodywork for a living and in the case of corrosion and Mercedes of a certain build time frame, the above is true. Sadly, the miracle rust cures / treatments which are supposed to 'kill rust' do not work on pitted steel and are nothing more than a band aid on a bad case of gangrene.

 

[SUPERNOVA1a]

Have a look at Frost Restoration at frost.co.uk used them when I was restoring THE BEAST